I have a 2001 Saturn SL2. I need to have my radiator hoses and serpentine belt changed. The dealership quoted me $360, and my mom's usual car shop (she also has a Saturn) quoted me $240. Where should I go??? Should it be a concern that the car shop doesn't specialize in Saturns specifically?
Car dealership service vs. independent car shop?
In my opinion, dealer service is unnecessary unless it is a warranty issue and the cost will be covered. As a do-it-yourself person, I do not go to shops unless I have to for inspections or tires, etc. $240 seems a bit high for just hoses and belts. But, the bottom line is trust. If you trust in the mechanic's skills and business ethics, then by all means go to that mechanic. Otherwise, it never hurts to shop around, and sometimes word of mouth gets you the best recommendation. If the repairs are not crucial right now, see what some other shops in town are charging for the same services. And don't be afraid to ask the mechanic questions beforehand, letting you know exactly what is going to be done to your vehicle and why. Shops are like restaurants - if they won't let you see their kitchen, don't eat what they're cookin', get what I mean? Good luck!!
Car dealership service vs. independent car shop?
Just ask the mom's shop that does they forseee any other expenses. Many a time, they hide it during initial quotations. Also, get copnfirmation why they are charging less. Are they planning to repair with an old or second grade parts.
Still if it is trusted one since long time, you can go for it.
Simple stuff like that is ok to have done at your moms shop. They probably have a lower hourly rate than the dealer. If you had some other type of repairs need say engine work or an electrical grimlin then take to someone that knows that modle of car.
Do you trust your mother? Has this independent shop mistreated you mother? Would you like to save $120? I could quote studies that have been done on independent's vs dealer's but for the quick answer, go to a good independent repair facility with ASE certified technicians and feel comfortable. ASE is a stringent, voluntary testing that an auto repairman puts himself through to prove he is at the top of his field every 4 years. There's bad doctors and lawyers and garbage collectors. Trust your family!
if i was you go to the independent car shop
you just pay more for the name of the dealership
well i am really torn here. Because I do not like dealerships but at the same time price is not always a good thing to go by. The old saying you get what you pay for. I would take it to one more place and get an estimate. If they are closer to mom's shop then go to mom's shop. If they are closer to the dealer maybe mom's shop is not the best place to go.
Friday, September 23, 2011
Could my thermostat have failed and caused oil to leak into the radiator,but not ruined the head gasket?
I brought my 1989 honda wagon into the shop to get a tune up and oil change,it was past due and the car was running rough. They talked me into getting a radiator flush,new top radiator hose,fuel injection service,etc. A total bill of 400!
When leaving the shop the owner said %26quot;you car not start%26quot; I said huh? %26quot;you car die%26quot; (he didnt speak much English) %26quot;you car die tomorrow it not my fault%26quot;-WHAT
I asked him to explain and he said my car was old and could die anytime, I was suspicious and hounded him for a reason it would die he clammed up.
Fast forward a week my car overheats and spews water and a little oil.
I have checked for all the signs of a cracked head gasket but all the pieces do not fit.
There is oil in the reserve tank of the radiator, drops on the rad cap.
There is NO water in the oil.
There is NO white smoke.
There are NO bubbles in the coolant when running the car .
The fan is not kicking in.
The car Is overheating.
The engine is running well .
Any ideas?
Could my thermostat have failed and caused oil to leak into the radiator,but not ruined the head gasket?
First thing is the fan not running. This however could be caused by a bad thermostat. If the sensor that tells the fan to run is not receiving hot water the fan won't turn on. This happens if the sensor is on the radiator or on the output side of the system. It can also happen if the sensor is in a pocket, without water flow the pocket may remain full of air.
I would say the thermostat may be bad. If you aren't getting white smoke and don't find any oil in the water or vice-versa my first guess is the head gasket is fine. Now, overheats can cause the head gasket to fail so don't let this go on and don't let it get too hot.
Apparently the car starts and runs now...you didn't say how that happened.
Take the radiator cap off, run the engine, when it gets hot the thermostat should be open and you should be able to see flow through the radiator.
Take the thermostat out, see if the car overheats. Or, test the thermostat in a pot of boiling water. It had better open by the time the water reaches boiling temp.
If you have flow, and thermostat works, look at the fan. It's probably a sensor, relay, or fuse.
When leaving the shop the owner said %26quot;you car not start%26quot; I said huh? %26quot;you car die%26quot; (he didnt speak much English) %26quot;you car die tomorrow it not my fault%26quot;-WHAT
I asked him to explain and he said my car was old and could die anytime, I was suspicious and hounded him for a reason it would die he clammed up.
Fast forward a week my car overheats and spews water and a little oil.
I have checked for all the signs of a cracked head gasket but all the pieces do not fit.
There is oil in the reserve tank of the radiator, drops on the rad cap.
There is NO water in the oil.
There is NO white smoke.
There are NO bubbles in the coolant when running the car .
The fan is not kicking in.
The car Is overheating.
The engine is running well .
Any ideas?
Could my thermostat have failed and caused oil to leak into the radiator,but not ruined the head gasket?
First thing is the fan not running. This however could be caused by a bad thermostat. If the sensor that tells the fan to run is not receiving hot water the fan won't turn on. This happens if the sensor is on the radiator or on the output side of the system. It can also happen if the sensor is in a pocket, without water flow the pocket may remain full of air.
I would say the thermostat may be bad. If you aren't getting white smoke and don't find any oil in the water or vice-versa my first guess is the head gasket is fine. Now, overheats can cause the head gasket to fail so don't let this go on and don't let it get too hot.
Apparently the car starts and runs now...you didn't say how that happened.
Take the radiator cap off, run the engine, when it gets hot the thermostat should be open and you should be able to see flow through the radiator.
Take the thermostat out, see if the car overheats. Or, test the thermostat in a pot of boiling water. It had better open by the time the water reaches boiling temp.
If you have flow, and thermostat works, look at the fan. It's probably a sensor, relay, or fuse.
Why is my honda civic still overheating?
my honda civc is still overheating and Ive replaced the hoses flushed the radiator changed the thermostat, the sensor, all but the water pump and it still overheats and sucks up water and I havent seen any leaks what could be causing this please help me!!!!!!!!
Why is my honda civic still overheating?
Might be a blown head gasket, It could be leaking out and burning up on the engine block.
Why is my honda civic still overheating?
beat the fan's not working
check that your fan is turning on. If not its probably a fuse on the fan.
If your fan IS turning on you might have a blown head gasket
Replace your coolant cap.
radiator can be clogged up on older units, I've seen them use radiator sealer and nearly plug up a good system. Check all the obvious though or rent a pressure system tester from autozone, pepboys etc and test it.parameter celeb myspace
Why is my honda civic still overheating?
Might be a blown head gasket, It could be leaking out and burning up on the engine block.
Why is my honda civic still overheating?
beat the fan's not working
check that your fan is turning on. If not its probably a fuse on the fan.
If your fan IS turning on you might have a blown head gasket
Replace your coolant cap.
radiator can be clogged up on older units, I've seen them use radiator sealer and nearly plug up a good system. Check all the obvious though or rent a pressure system tester from autozone, pepboys etc and test it.
What to do with my tranny?
I just bought this '95 Ford F-350 with 12' dump bed with 190,000 miles
on it from a construction company about 6 months ago for $2000. After
going through all the maintainance and checks I ended up changing the
radiator, water pump, fan clutch, hoses, belt, rear differential clutch
plates and all fluids and filters including putting new fluid in the
E4OD Electronic 4-speed automatic transmission and replacing the filter
in the pan and the one on the line to the transmission cooler. I took
it to LA from Reno and cleaned up a property by taking 30 full loads of
junk to the dump 8 miles away through hilly country. The overdrive off
switch on the shift lever was completely missing when I bought the truck
and I didn't get a chance to fix it or think that it was a big deal to
not have it. On the way back to Reno I hauled all my things back in the
bed and in a 22' cargo trailer. It was a pretty heavy load. I took 395
back to Reno through the mountains.
What to do with my tranny?
to rebuild the trani will be a nightmare!!! if it was me i would try to get as much out of the one that you have now. i would put in some lucas trani stabalizer and see how far it got me.
Dont get me wrong you need a new trani but i would milk it for as long as you can because you already need a new one. Sounds like the damage is to far gone man.
What to do with my tranny?
clutch packs are burned out.. when one wears they start droping like dominos... sorry replace it... and the thing is with a tranny.. you cant dress them up and take them out... they need to say in the closet
please stop posting such question
on it from a construction company about 6 months ago for $2000. After
going through all the maintainance and checks I ended up changing the
radiator, water pump, fan clutch, hoses, belt, rear differential clutch
plates and all fluids and filters including putting new fluid in the
E4OD Electronic 4-speed automatic transmission and replacing the filter
in the pan and the one on the line to the transmission cooler. I took
it to LA from Reno and cleaned up a property by taking 30 full loads of
junk to the dump 8 miles away through hilly country. The overdrive off
switch on the shift lever was completely missing when I bought the truck
and I didn't get a chance to fix it or think that it was a big deal to
not have it. On the way back to Reno I hauled all my things back in the
bed and in a 22' cargo trailer. It was a pretty heavy load. I took 395
back to Reno through the mountains.
What to do with my tranny?
to rebuild the trani will be a nightmare!!! if it was me i would try to get as much out of the one that you have now. i would put in some lucas trani stabalizer and see how far it got me.
Dont get me wrong you need a new trani but i would milk it for as long as you can because you already need a new one. Sounds like the damage is to far gone man.
What to do with my tranny?
clutch packs are burned out.. when one wears they start droping like dominos... sorry replace it... and the thing is with a tranny.. you cant dress them up and take them out... they need to say in the closet
please stop posting such question
My radiator is leaking?
well i recently fixed my radiator cause it couldnt keep any coolant down, so i changed it. and now its leaking this brownish clear type of liquid, i have a 96 honda accord with a automatic transmission, and a v-tec engine, i was wondering it that was normal, and the leak is on one of the medal pipes that stick out of the radiator, i thought it was hose, but it wasnt leaking from there, just the metal area and thats it.what could be wrong with it. and i changed the radiator it also through some of that brown clear type of liquid out, and it was a lot, now its just leaking dripping it. i was wondering if anybody can tell me if its normal, or what it might be.
My radiator is leaking?
It shouldn't be leaking at all. The metal lines coming out of the rad should have a fitting that screws them into the main radiator core... It sounds like you just need to tighten one of them a smidge. If a shop did the radiator replacement for you, take it back, show them, and they'll use the proper wrench to tighten it up (free of charge). If you did the rad fix at home, you can fix it with a regular wrench but a line fitting wrench is the safest best.
They look like this... note it wraps around a bit at the tips for a perfect tight fit. You can get them at any hardware store.
http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/brake鈥?/a>
My radiator is leaking?
well if its brown liquid its not antifreeze, it's power steering fluid the if its red its transmission fluid check it. make sure that those likes that go to the radiator are tight if they are and they keep leaking then you can buy teflon tape and put some on. try to use a wrench that are for those lines so you wont damage them because they are fragile.
Does the radiator have transmission fluid capability? Exactly which metal pipe are you talking about that %26quot;sticks out of%26quot; the radiator? Is this a pipe you had to detach and attach to the radiator? If so, it may be a transmission fluid line.
If you changed this out on your own but don't even know how to identify the connections, you may want to do one of two things:
Buy a Haynes manual for your make and model of vehicle at Autozone and check out the section on your cooling system, or ...
Take your vehicle to a radiator shop and let them have a look at it.
My radiator is leaking?
It shouldn't be leaking at all. The metal lines coming out of the rad should have a fitting that screws them into the main radiator core... It sounds like you just need to tighten one of them a smidge. If a shop did the radiator replacement for you, take it back, show them, and they'll use the proper wrench to tighten it up (free of charge). If you did the rad fix at home, you can fix it with a regular wrench but a line fitting wrench is the safest best.
They look like this... note it wraps around a bit at the tips for a perfect tight fit. You can get them at any hardware store.
http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/brake鈥?/a>
My radiator is leaking?
well if its brown liquid its not antifreeze, it's power steering fluid the if its red its transmission fluid check it. make sure that those likes that go to the radiator are tight if they are and they keep leaking then you can buy teflon tape and put some on. try to use a wrench that are for those lines so you wont damage them because they are fragile.
Does the radiator have transmission fluid capability? Exactly which metal pipe are you talking about that %26quot;sticks out of%26quot; the radiator? Is this a pipe you had to detach and attach to the radiator? If so, it may be a transmission fluid line.
If you changed this out on your own but don't even know how to identify the connections, you may want to do one of two things:
Buy a Haynes manual for your make and model of vehicle at Autozone and check out the section on your cooling system, or ...
Take your vehicle to a radiator shop and let them have a look at it.
Is it safe to leave off a thermostat on a car?
My car temp. keeps rising and i have changed every hose and anti-freeze...did a radiator flush but temp. still rises....someone told me to change the intake gasket and thermostat...another friend told me leave the thermostat off and run it like dat?...is this safe?
Is it safe to leave off a thermostat on a car?
It won't kill you ,so it's safe. But it will make the motor run rich longer because of the longer time it will take to come up to operating temperature. This will carbon up the cylinders and probably throw codes. It may load up the cat converter and cause it to fail. Not the best idea.
You should get a master mechanic to diagnose the problem. It could be the electric radiator fan is not functioning as it should, or that the water pump is not working. It may be that you have a bad head gasket and that an air pocket keeps forming in the cooling system.
Changing the thermostat is the first thing I would have done.
Something is causing the problem and you had better get it fixed before you do major motor damage.
Is it safe to leave off a thermostat on a car?
no
it is safe.
yes, you can run without a thermostat, but your heater will never get hot...
I'd suggest a new thermostat rather than %26quot;no%26quot; thermostat, since they are rather inexpensive...
you may also want to check your fans, and make sure they are working properly...
finally you may need a new water pump...
as long as you don't have any big bubbles in your coolant system, and your head gaskets arent blown... you should be right as rain
Safe, yes.
Smart,no.
Your engine running hot could be a bad sensor, a plugged fuel filter, a vacuum leak, poor timing and several other things.
In short, you just need to get some things taken care of, not putting a thermostat in it may cure the symptoms but not the real problem (which can lead to an early death for the engine and car).
Since temps keep rising, suspect a blown head gasket. Is the vehicle expelling coolant when it gets hot? If so, almost certain head gasket is blown.
Running without a t-stat will not allow the engine to get up to normal operating temps and keep the engine running rich, which will reduce fuel economy.
It is not good. The piston can get hot and expand while the block stays cool and compact. That combo spells disaster.
your car will not heat just change the thermostat
It is safe, in that it isn't going to blow up or anything. However, Your defrosters and heater will not get hot, so clearing the windshield may be a problem, which is not safe.
Also the engine running hot may be the result of something else being wrong with the engine. Your engine may also run rich if you pull the thermostat, the computer will think that the engine is still cold and will throw more fuel into the cylinders which isn't good for the engine.
The best thing to do, is to have the problem corrected and to replace the thermostat with a new one. The car will perform better and you'll save gas too.
Good luck with it.
Put a new thermostat in correctly (i have seen them in up-side down)
Make sure the cooling fan works. If the car has air conditioning, it may have a fan clutch that is freewheeling. Get it replaced.
If no fan clutch make sure the cooling fans work, bad relay, bad senser will allow overheating.
Best I can do with no details to work with.
You can run it if you want to but your vehicles computer (ECM) will make the car run worse since it is removed, just replace it with the correct one in degrees and not higher or lower.
if your temp keeps rising you probably have a head gasket problem.do not run without thermostat because you will not know if you are overheating,you could do major damage with out knowing.
If the temp rises only when the vehicle is stopped, such as at stoplights or when idling parked, and if the temp goes back down after you get the car moving, then your thermosensor (sticking out near the bottom of the radiator in my Honda) has probably gone bad and is no longer telling the fan to come on when you don't have wind coming through the radiator (because you are stopped). It is a very cheap fix.
Also, a stuck thermostat will cause your problem. Also a very cheap fix.
At many auto parts stores you can buy a Haynes do-it-yourself manual for your model car, with step-by-step instructions, and basic explanations at the beginning of each chapter. If it is not in stock, you can order it online by searching on %26quot;auto repair manuals%26quot; on Yahoo search. In the front is a section on %26quot;Troubleshooting%26quot; that guides you step-by-step to find causes of most engine malfunctions based on the car's symptoms. Whether you do the work yourself or not, it helps you make informed decisions, to understand your mechanic and not be taken advantage of, and to not feel so %26quot;in the dark.%26quot;
db667089 says: you can check http://www.alldatadiy.com. For about the same price as a Haynes or Chilton's repair manual, you can have online access (for a whole year) to model specific info for your particular vehicle. This is the same info that repair shops use. They have great wiring schematics/diagrams.
Also, for about $15 for a one-month subscription, you can get the factory manual, downloadable (careful! Mine was about 500 pages!) or viewable, at http://eAutoRepair.com.
no, put a new thermostat in it and have the waterpump checked and make sure the fan is working properly.
Is it safe to leave off a thermostat on a car?
It won't kill you ,so it's safe. But it will make the motor run rich longer because of the longer time it will take to come up to operating temperature. This will carbon up the cylinders and probably throw codes. It may load up the cat converter and cause it to fail. Not the best idea.
You should get a master mechanic to diagnose the problem. It could be the electric radiator fan is not functioning as it should, or that the water pump is not working. It may be that you have a bad head gasket and that an air pocket keeps forming in the cooling system.
Changing the thermostat is the first thing I would have done.
Something is causing the problem and you had better get it fixed before you do major motor damage.
Is it safe to leave off a thermostat on a car?
no
it is safe.
yes, you can run without a thermostat, but your heater will never get hot...
I'd suggest a new thermostat rather than %26quot;no%26quot; thermostat, since they are rather inexpensive...
you may also want to check your fans, and make sure they are working properly...
finally you may need a new water pump...
as long as you don't have any big bubbles in your coolant system, and your head gaskets arent blown... you should be right as rain
Safe, yes.
Smart,no.
Your engine running hot could be a bad sensor, a plugged fuel filter, a vacuum leak, poor timing and several other things.
In short, you just need to get some things taken care of, not putting a thermostat in it may cure the symptoms but not the real problem (which can lead to an early death for the engine and car).
Since temps keep rising, suspect a blown head gasket. Is the vehicle expelling coolant when it gets hot? If so, almost certain head gasket is blown.
Running without a t-stat will not allow the engine to get up to normal operating temps and keep the engine running rich, which will reduce fuel economy.
It is not good. The piston can get hot and expand while the block stays cool and compact. That combo spells disaster.
your car will not heat just change the thermostat
It is safe, in that it isn't going to blow up or anything. However, Your defrosters and heater will not get hot, so clearing the windshield may be a problem, which is not safe.
Also the engine running hot may be the result of something else being wrong with the engine. Your engine may also run rich if you pull the thermostat, the computer will think that the engine is still cold and will throw more fuel into the cylinders which isn't good for the engine.
The best thing to do, is to have the problem corrected and to replace the thermostat with a new one. The car will perform better and you'll save gas too.
Good luck with it.
Put a new thermostat in correctly (i have seen them in up-side down)
Make sure the cooling fan works. If the car has air conditioning, it may have a fan clutch that is freewheeling. Get it replaced.
If no fan clutch make sure the cooling fans work, bad relay, bad senser will allow overheating.
Best I can do with no details to work with.
You can run it if you want to but your vehicles computer (ECM) will make the car run worse since it is removed, just replace it with the correct one in degrees and not higher or lower.
if your temp keeps rising you probably have a head gasket problem.do not run without thermostat because you will not know if you are overheating,you could do major damage with out knowing.
If the temp rises only when the vehicle is stopped, such as at stoplights or when idling parked, and if the temp goes back down after you get the car moving, then your thermosensor (sticking out near the bottom of the radiator in my Honda) has probably gone bad and is no longer telling the fan to come on when you don't have wind coming through the radiator (because you are stopped). It is a very cheap fix.
Also, a stuck thermostat will cause your problem. Also a very cheap fix.
At many auto parts stores you can buy a Haynes do-it-yourself manual for your model car, with step-by-step instructions, and basic explanations at the beginning of each chapter. If it is not in stock, you can order it online by searching on %26quot;auto repair manuals%26quot; on Yahoo search. In the front is a section on %26quot;Troubleshooting%26quot; that guides you step-by-step to find causes of most engine malfunctions based on the car's symptoms. Whether you do the work yourself or not, it helps you make informed decisions, to understand your mechanic and not be taken advantage of, and to not feel so %26quot;in the dark.%26quot;
db667089 says: you can check http://www.alldatadiy.com. For about the same price as a Haynes or Chilton's repair manual, you can have online access (for a whole year) to model specific info for your particular vehicle. This is the same info that repair shops use. They have great wiring schematics/diagrams.
Also, for about $15 for a one-month subscription, you can get the factory manual, downloadable (careful! Mine was about 500 pages!) or viewable, at http://eAutoRepair.com.
no, put a new thermostat in it and have the waterpump checked and make sure the fan is working properly.
Price quote for radiator replacement!?
I have a alfa 156 selespeed (1999). it's leaking coolant hence my temperature is always high and for the mean time i'm just topping it up with water. My mechanic quoted A$1000+ including parts and labour to replace. does that sound right? do i need to change the enitre radiator or could it be just the hoses or other parts that are leaking?
Price quote for radiator replacement!?
i would see if i could get that one fixed first
Price quote for radiator replacement!?
i would see if i could get that one fixed first
How do I know if my car is still worth driving?
My old 87 jeep needs a changed oil, airbags (if those are even possible to be installed), the radiator flushed, top upholstery reattached to the ceiling, hoses checked, windshield changed, a new radio and speakers, the air conditioning fixed, the steering wheel is loose the horn doesn't work and the dashboard doesn't light up when you turn on the headlights. It's practically my dream car though and I want to know if it's even worth fixing it up to be able to drive.
How do I know if my car is still worth driving?
So basically.....
You haven't maintained it. And now that it's gone to crap, you wonder if it's worth trying to fix?
It might have been, prior to you deciding to neglect it.
How do I know if my car is still worth driving?
well, youll kno your jeep isnt worth driving when your jeep needs a changed oil, airbags (if those are even possible to be installed), the radiator flushed, top upholstery reattached to the ceiling, hoses checked, windshield changed, a new radio and speakers, the air conditioning fixed, the steering wheel is loose the horn doesn't work and the dashboard doesn't light up when you turn on the headlights. lol its just not worth the hassle
Junk it. Buy something else to abuse.
its worth it if you think its worth it ! ppl buy half a car and redo them because they want that kind of car but keep in mind if you don't know how to fix it your self it can get into the thousands fast
only you can answer that question. me, i'd junk the thing. airbags are a pipe dream. the rest of it can be done, but it'll cost you. you have to think of it as a rebuild/restoration rather than repair. as a repair it's nto worth it, if it's your dream car then rebuild it.
for one, is this particular jeep your dream car? if its just the style of that year (they were nice) and color then get a new one. if you are looking to buy this jeep, then don't buy it unless it runs really well and is selling for about 500 dollars. jeeps will run forever period but it's really your call.
Use it to deer hunt (Bill Engval's 3rd option) - hit the deer with your car on purposedatabase AJAX in .net
How do I know if my car is still worth driving?
So basically.....
You haven't maintained it. And now that it's gone to crap, you wonder if it's worth trying to fix?
It might have been, prior to you deciding to neglect it.
How do I know if my car is still worth driving?
well, youll kno your jeep isnt worth driving when your jeep needs a changed oil, airbags (if those are even possible to be installed), the radiator flushed, top upholstery reattached to the ceiling, hoses checked, windshield changed, a new radio and speakers, the air conditioning fixed, the steering wheel is loose the horn doesn't work and the dashboard doesn't light up when you turn on the headlights. lol its just not worth the hassle
Junk it. Buy something else to abuse.
its worth it if you think its worth it ! ppl buy half a car and redo them because they want that kind of car but keep in mind if you don't know how to fix it your self it can get into the thousands fast
only you can answer that question. me, i'd junk the thing. airbags are a pipe dream. the rest of it can be done, but it'll cost you. you have to think of it as a rebuild/restoration rather than repair. as a repair it's nto worth it, if it's your dream car then rebuild it.
for one, is this particular jeep your dream car? if its just the style of that year (they were nice) and color then get a new one. if you are looking to buy this jeep, then don't buy it unless it runs really well and is selling for about 500 dollars. jeeps will run forever period but it's really your call.
Use it to deer hunt (Bill Engval's 3rd option) - hit the deer with your car on purpose
I changed my heater core today and...?
I am planning on installing a new radiator and all hoses. I am also going to have someone change the water pump and flush the cooling system out. It's all original on a 96 F150 with over 260K miles, so I figure it's all due. So anyways, my question is does it matter when I have it flushed? I would like to change the radiator and hoses before I take it to the shop but I don't want all the stuff from the engine getting in the new radiator and hoses. I haven't actually hooked the heater core into the system yet. The last time it was flushed was about 5 years ago.
Thanks.
I changed my heater core today and...?
If I were doing this in my garage, I would unhook the old radiator, and use the old hoses to flush the engine block out seperately. Then I would replace the water pump, put the new radiator in, then replace all the hoses and hook up the new heater core. Fill with coolant/antifreeze and would be on my way. Good luck.
I changed my heater core today and...?
FLUSH IT FIRST, THEN WHEN YOU REPLACE ALL THAT STUFF,YOU'LL BE STARTING WITH A CLEAN SYSTEM.
flush first
if you are changing the radiator, new water pump and hoses. there really isnt much to clean out. the block doesnt hold the little stuff, like the heater core and radiator cores do. dont think it would be of much use to do it after that is all intalled new.
Thanks.
I changed my heater core today and...?
If I were doing this in my garage, I would unhook the old radiator, and use the old hoses to flush the engine block out seperately. Then I would replace the water pump, put the new radiator in, then replace all the hoses and hook up the new heater core. Fill with coolant/antifreeze and would be on my way. Good luck.
I changed my heater core today and...?
FLUSH IT FIRST, THEN WHEN YOU REPLACE ALL THAT STUFF,YOU'LL BE STARTING WITH A CLEAN SYSTEM.
flush first
if you are changing the radiator, new water pump and hoses. there really isnt much to clean out. the block doesnt hold the little stuff, like the heater core and radiator cores do. dont think it would be of much use to do it after that is all intalled new.
Why is my 94 civic running hot? And how do I test a radiator fan motor? Someone please help!!!?
I have a 94 honda civic dx. I went to myrtle beach about a month ago and on the way home my car overheated. I changed the radiator/radiator cap/reservoir cap because my friend who sold me the car told me it needed to be replaced. The car still over heats. I read the Mechanic manual for my car and it says it shouldn't be my thermostat if my hoses are warm/hot, and my hoses are hot. Its like when I drive the car, the car heats up to normal temperature normally and then the anti-freeze evaporates or something... The ant-freeze doesn't stay in the reservoir. I checked and the coolant isn't leaking... it just disappears, I don't know what to do anymore. The only option I can think of is the fan, because I have never (I mean never) heard the fan come on the whole time I have owned the car (about a year now). But then again I have never heard the fan come on and I don't understand why it would cause the car to overheat if it wasn't working before. I'm frustrated and considering selling it, but I love the car because I have plans to fix it up. Can anyone give me a resolution? Also can someone tell me how to test the radiator fan battery? My manual says to connect my car battery to the fan motor...I don't have any idea how to connect that without killing myself. If you have pictures or a website link I would deeply appreciate it.
Why is my 94 civic running hot? And how do I test a radiator fan motor? Someone please help!!!?
You can't electrocute yourself with a car battery so don't even worry about it. The fan motor has a connector with two wires connect one to positive connect one to negative...see if it turns...easy.
But if you said you are losing coolant and you are not leaking it out that would indicate a more serious problem such as a head gasket (rare on a Honda) do you see white smoke out of your tailpipe when you drive?
Why is my 94 civic running hot? And how do I test a radiator fan motor? Someone please help!!!?
Try www.hondatuningmagazine.com, some good how to's and editorials, and some great articles for when you're ready to customize.
My friend when your car overheats there are a few checks that you should carry out. First you should check your thermostat if it works then check your water pump to see whether it circulates the water. In your case your car has a fan switch which is located in the hose outlet and when the car reaches certain temperature the switch comes on and starts the fan and cools the engine. The person who advised you to connect the fan to the battery is only checking whether the fan works and in that case your fan is O.K. but you should change the fan switch if it works on direct battery. You should also check whether your radiator is clogged and this is a very easy to test.
Why is my 94 civic running hot? And how do I test a radiator fan motor? Someone please help!!!?
You can't electrocute yourself with a car battery so don't even worry about it. The fan motor has a connector with two wires connect one to positive connect one to negative...see if it turns...easy.
But if you said you are losing coolant and you are not leaking it out that would indicate a more serious problem such as a head gasket (rare on a Honda) do you see white smoke out of your tailpipe when you drive?
Why is my 94 civic running hot? And how do I test a radiator fan motor? Someone please help!!!?
Try www.hondatuningmagazine.com, some good how to's and editorials, and some great articles for when you're ready to customize.
My friend when your car overheats there are a few checks that you should carry out. First you should check your thermostat if it works then check your water pump to see whether it circulates the water. In your case your car has a fan switch which is located in the hose outlet and when the car reaches certain temperature the switch comes on and starts the fan and cools the engine. The person who advised you to connect the fan to the battery is only checking whether the fan works and in that case your fan is O.K. but you should change the fan switch if it works on direct battery. You should also check whether your radiator is clogged and this is a very easy to test.
96' Nissan Maxima, cracked radiator, cracked timing belt, the list goes on?
I have a 96' Nissan Maxima GXE, around 120,000 miles. I was informed during a recent lube change that my car had some fluid leaking. So I took my car in to the dealer and they found many things that need to be fixed. replacing CV boots $400, replacing cracked timing belt $1500:replacing cracked radiator $800, replacing powering steering hoses, $800. The initial quote is well over $3500. I could potentially buy another car with that money. and I don't have that kind of money
I need some advice on what are items that absolutely need to fixed and what can be fixed later and if the quoted prices are reasonable.
Really appreciate anyone that could help out.
Thank you.
96' Nissan Maxima, cracked radiator, cracked timing belt, the list goes on?
The Dealership is not the place for a 1996 Maxima. If you had the skill to do these repairs on your own... you could probably buy most of the parts from online suppliers, and ebay for less than $400. The rest of that $3500 cost is simply part markups, and labor cost.
If you don't have the skills, then there are many smaller mechanic shops, and franchise shops that will do it for cheaper.
Repairs in order of importance.
1- Radiator. In the summer your car will seize if it runs low on coolant.
2- Timing belt. A worn timing belt does not perform badly, but there is a concern it might break. There is probably still time before this needs to be done. It should be you second concern. Warning! If left too long... it may break causing serious damage to the engine. I've never paid more than $450 for a timing belt/water pump replacement. The parts are cheap, but the labor is intensive. Shop around. $1500 sounds like a rape job.
3- Power steering hoses are cheap! $800? SHOP AROUND!!! The hose/parts themselves cost no more than $40-$60. Perhaps more, if they are THAT specialized. But not $800
4) CV boot. A torn or broken boot means the Constant Velocity joint has been compromised with grit and soil. It will continue to function normally until it fails... usually a very long time. Replacing the boot may extend the life of the joint but is not cost effective. In many cases, the labor is actually cheaper to replace the whole joint. Unless the CV joints are new... then it may be easier to simply run on them until they are close to failing. You'll know this by a harsh knocking/ticking sound when making hard turns.
Find a reliable mechanic for your 1996 Maxima. The dealership prices no longer cut it for an aging car. Even Franchise shops such as Tuffy, or Monroe are preferable to your dealership quotes. Like I said, shop around, you can cut an easy $1500 off that estimate by finding better sources.
96' Nissan Maxima, cracked radiator, cracked timing belt, the list goes on?
Holy crap 1500 for a timing belt!? Forget about that place!
you said you took it to a dealership, so now try a local repair shop.
you got hosed.
i'll make it simple, get a second estimate,find an independent shop in your area out of the phone book see if there affiliated with bbb.dealer trying to rape you , hate to say it , i worked for dealers all my life, just be careful, there are good mechanics out there. you should spend around 800.00 to 1000.00 , good luck, have any other questions please e-mail me .
You've been %26quot;Punked%26quot; Sounds like (can you say Sabotage) that %26quot;Wrench%26quot; is a %26quot;Crook%26quot;!! My cousin had a similar problem after an Oil Change he got a Check Engine Light and he was told he needed a %26quot;New Transmission%26quot;. Be wary of shady repair shops! Make sure that the shop employs %26quot;ASE CERTIFIED TECHNICIAN/MECHANICS%26quot;. ASK TO SEE THE CERTIFICATES. YOU REALLY WANT A %26quot;MASTER TECHNICIAN TO %26quot;PIMP YOUR RIDE%26quot; GOOD LUCK!! AS AN AFTER- THOUGHT CAN YOU READ/MECHANICALLY INCLINED LEARN TO TO FIX IT YOURSELF! MY COUSIN DIDN'T NEED A TRANSMISSION. HE JUST GOT LUCKY BECAUSE %26quot;I AM A MECHANIC%26quot;! (RETIRED)
I need some advice on what are items that absolutely need to fixed and what can be fixed later and if the quoted prices are reasonable.
Really appreciate anyone that could help out.
Thank you.
96' Nissan Maxima, cracked radiator, cracked timing belt, the list goes on?
The Dealership is not the place for a 1996 Maxima. If you had the skill to do these repairs on your own... you could probably buy most of the parts from online suppliers, and ebay for less than $400. The rest of that $3500 cost is simply part markups, and labor cost.
If you don't have the skills, then there are many smaller mechanic shops, and franchise shops that will do it for cheaper.
Repairs in order of importance.
1- Radiator. In the summer your car will seize if it runs low on coolant.
2- Timing belt. A worn timing belt does not perform badly, but there is a concern it might break. There is probably still time before this needs to be done. It should be you second concern. Warning! If left too long... it may break causing serious damage to the engine. I've never paid more than $450 for a timing belt/water pump replacement. The parts are cheap, but the labor is intensive. Shop around. $1500 sounds like a rape job.
3- Power steering hoses are cheap! $800? SHOP AROUND!!! The hose/parts themselves cost no more than $40-$60. Perhaps more, if they are THAT specialized. But not $800
4) CV boot. A torn or broken boot means the Constant Velocity joint has been compromised with grit and soil. It will continue to function normally until it fails... usually a very long time. Replacing the boot may extend the life of the joint but is not cost effective. In many cases, the labor is actually cheaper to replace the whole joint. Unless the CV joints are new... then it may be easier to simply run on them until they are close to failing. You'll know this by a harsh knocking/ticking sound when making hard turns.
Find a reliable mechanic for your 1996 Maxima. The dealership prices no longer cut it for an aging car. Even Franchise shops such as Tuffy, or Monroe are preferable to your dealership quotes. Like I said, shop around, you can cut an easy $1500 off that estimate by finding better sources.
96' Nissan Maxima, cracked radiator, cracked timing belt, the list goes on?
Holy crap 1500 for a timing belt!? Forget about that place!
you said you took it to a dealership, so now try a local repair shop.
you got hosed.
i'll make it simple, get a second estimate,find an independent shop in your area out of the phone book see if there affiliated with bbb.dealer trying to rape you , hate to say it , i worked for dealers all my life, just be careful, there are good mechanics out there. you should spend around 800.00 to 1000.00 , good luck, have any other questions please e-mail me .
You've been %26quot;Punked%26quot; Sounds like (can you say Sabotage) that %26quot;Wrench%26quot; is a %26quot;Crook%26quot;!! My cousin had a similar problem after an Oil Change he got a Check Engine Light and he was told he needed a %26quot;New Transmission%26quot;. Be wary of shady repair shops! Make sure that the shop employs %26quot;ASE CERTIFIED TECHNICIAN/MECHANICS%26quot;. ASK TO SEE THE CERTIFICATES. YOU REALLY WANT A %26quot;MASTER TECHNICIAN TO %26quot;PIMP YOUR RIDE%26quot; GOOD LUCK!! AS AN AFTER- THOUGHT CAN YOU READ/MECHANICALLY INCLINED LEARN TO TO FIX IT YOURSELF! MY COUSIN DIDN'T NEED A TRANSMISSION. HE JUST GOT LUCKY BECAUSE %26quot;I AM A MECHANIC%26quot;! (RETIRED)
How to change the battery on a 2004 pt cruiser?
I am unable to remove the air cleaner housing in order to reach the 13mm and 10mm nuts or bolts holding the battery secure. It also appears that when the battery is freed it will be extremely difficult to remove it from under the left front quarter panel which curves over the front left corner of the battery. On the right side of the battery the radiator hose is in close proximity and I am not sure that the battery will clear it. What do I do?
How to change the battery on a 2004 pt cruiser?
although it appears that there is not much room , there is actually plenty. All you have to do it undo the 2 clips in the front of the air cleaner. then use a flathead screwdriver and undo the clamp on the end of the throttle body. This will give you access to the battery. When you have it unbolted just pull straight up and it will come out.
How to change the battery on a 2004 pt cruiser?
http://www.ptdoityourself.net/tl/tl_22.h鈥?/a> about 3/4 down the page.
How to change the battery on a 2004 pt cruiser?
although it appears that there is not much room , there is actually plenty. All you have to do it undo the 2 clips in the front of the air cleaner. then use a flathead screwdriver and undo the clamp on the end of the throttle body. This will give you access to the battery. When you have it unbolted just pull straight up and it will come out.
How to change the battery on a 2004 pt cruiser?
http://www.ptdoityourself.net/tl/tl_22.h鈥?/a> about 3/4 down the page.
I cannot find a radiator drain plug on my Mitsubitho 2000 van.?
Can anyone verify if I must take off the hose at the bottom
for sure? It seems that with no peacock valve, the hose may
leak or deteoriate if i take off the hose. It would seem better
for mitsubitshi to have a drain plug for my annual change
of antifreeze and clean out the gunk. Because, one must
first take out the antifireeze existing, then run it with water for
15 minutes, then dain it again, after having first hooked it up
with a radiator flush, then again for water and a third time for
the new antifreeze, its a lot of times one must unscrew the hose. it seems there should be a radiator drain plug as the
constant unscrewing of the hose and putting it back on would
cause leaks in the radiator hose. Can anyone verify if the
2000 mitsubishi has no radiator drain(peacock) valve to
drain the radiator?
I cannot find a radiator drain plug on my Mitsubitho 2000 van.?
check for a peacock on your mitsubitho van again( and as far as i know you will never find a peacock valve because there is no such thing and a mistubitho i haven't ever heard of either) did you build this mistubitho van yourself and made up name as you went along
I cannot find a radiator drain plug on my Mitsubitho 2000 van.?
That's right ... no drainplug ..... but you don't need to screw the hoseclamp back on each time ... just push the hose back on the fitting and run it with the cap off for a few minutes ... and you only need to run it till it warms up and the thermostat opens making sure all the old coolant is flushed through ... when the system is clean retighten the hoseclamp.
You're better off taking the hose off anyway because you get a proper surge emptying any settled residue that might be in the bottom of your radiator ... the drain tap just trickles and clogs if you have any sedimentWhere i can buy server to host my own web site ittwit
for sure? It seems that with no peacock valve, the hose may
leak or deteoriate if i take off the hose. It would seem better
for mitsubitshi to have a drain plug for my annual change
of antifreeze and clean out the gunk. Because, one must
first take out the antifireeze existing, then run it with water for
15 minutes, then dain it again, after having first hooked it up
with a radiator flush, then again for water and a third time for
the new antifreeze, its a lot of times one must unscrew the hose. it seems there should be a radiator drain plug as the
constant unscrewing of the hose and putting it back on would
cause leaks in the radiator hose. Can anyone verify if the
2000 mitsubishi has no radiator drain(peacock) valve to
drain the radiator?
I cannot find a radiator drain plug on my Mitsubitho 2000 van.?
check for a peacock on your mitsubitho van again( and as far as i know you will never find a peacock valve because there is no such thing and a mistubitho i haven't ever heard of either) did you build this mistubitho van yourself and made up name as you went along
I cannot find a radiator drain plug on my Mitsubitho 2000 van.?
That's right ... no drainplug ..... but you don't need to screw the hoseclamp back on each time ... just push the hose back on the fitting and run it with the cap off for a few minutes ... and you only need to run it till it warms up and the thermostat opens making sure all the old coolant is flushed through ... when the system is clean retighten the hoseclamp.
You're better off taking the hose off anyway because you get a proper surge emptying any settled residue that might be in the bottom of your radiator ... the drain tap just trickles and clogs if you have any sediment
I changed the radiator, the thermostat, and the fan clutch on 84 Chevy and the temperature gauge gets hot!
The temperature gauge goes to 220 degrees and the coiled hoses look ok. What can I do?
I changed the radiator, the thermostat, and the fan clutch on 84 Chevy and the temperature gauge gets hot!
try a water pump.
I changed the radiator, the thermostat, and the fan clutch on 84 Chevy and the temperature gauge gets hot!
sensor maybe
does it really get hott or does it represent a fake temp
could be alot but check if the temp is real
if it is not most likely your sensor
Does it smoke when you crank the car, or does the oil look creamy like water in the oil, if so the head gasket is probably some thing to look at. The water pump is another part that needs to be looked at to see if it is making the coolant flow fast enough to cool. last it could just be the gauge, but if you smell something funny like antifreeze, or are loosing coolant then it probably is really running hot. If you can't work on it your self, I would take to a shop and ask them to quote you a price on fixing it, they will probably do this for free, You can discuss that at time of quote. this way you know what is wrong and don't have to spend money on the spot. Hope you have good luck.
Chris
220 degrees is probably OK if it doesn't blow out coolant.You have a pressure radiator cap so it can run above atmospheric boiling point.
I changed the radiator, the thermostat, and the fan clutch on 84 Chevy and the temperature gauge gets hot!
try a water pump.
I changed the radiator, the thermostat, and the fan clutch on 84 Chevy and the temperature gauge gets hot!
sensor maybe
does it really get hott or does it represent a fake temp
could be alot but check if the temp is real
if it is not most likely your sensor
Does it smoke when you crank the car, or does the oil look creamy like water in the oil, if so the head gasket is probably some thing to look at. The water pump is another part that needs to be looked at to see if it is making the coolant flow fast enough to cool. last it could just be the gauge, but if you smell something funny like antifreeze, or are loosing coolant then it probably is really running hot. If you can't work on it your self, I would take to a shop and ask them to quote you a price on fixing it, they will probably do this for free, You can discuss that at time of quote. this way you know what is wrong and don't have to spend money on the spot. Hope you have good luck.
Chris
220 degrees is probably OK if it doesn't blow out coolant.You have a pressure radiator cap so it can run above atmospheric boiling point.
How do I change the thermostat on Pontiac montana 2003?
how do I change the thermostate on a pontiac montana 2003? can't find the housing not on either side radiator hose on right or left. is it buried somewhere?
How do I change the thermostat on Pontiac montana 2003?
It is actually buried under the air cleaner. It isn't as easy as changing a thermostat sounds.
How do I change the thermostat on Pontiac montana 2003?
The top radiator hose usually leads to the top of the engine and the thermostat bell shaped housing. Buy an http://www.haynes.com repair manual for your car from a local auto parts store or go to your local library to view their Chilton's or Motor's repair manuals.
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/090鈥?/a>
It is located below the throttle body follow the upper rad. hose on the left side of engine, behind the exhaust crossover pipe. There are two bolts holding it to the lower intake. The bolts are in a very tough spot to get at. Could be easier to take it to a good shop and let the pos do it. Good luck
How do I change the thermostat on Pontiac montana 2003?
It is actually buried under the air cleaner. It isn't as easy as changing a thermostat sounds.
How do I change the thermostat on Pontiac montana 2003?
The top radiator hose usually leads to the top of the engine and the thermostat bell shaped housing. Buy an http://www.haynes.com repair manual for your car from a local auto parts store or go to your local library to view their Chilton's or Motor's repair manuals.
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/090鈥?/a>
It is located below the throttle body follow the upper rad. hose on the left side of engine, behind the exhaust crossover pipe. There are two bolts holding it to the lower intake. The bolts are in a very tough spot to get at. Could be easier to take it to a good shop and let the pos do it. Good luck
Radiator fluid question?
ok so i own a 92 honda prelude ..after about 5 mins of driving it the temperature guage will hit up to the middle ...so i park my car n u could hear the coolant boiling with pressure i open the hood and all the fluid is coming out through the reservoir tank ....and all the hoses are packed with pressure..why is this happening..i already changed the radiator cap n flushed the old fluid n put the 50/50
Radiator fluid question?
Plugged radiator?
Bad water pump?
Bad radiator hose?
Blown head gasket?
Leak in the cooling system?
Take it to a radiator shop and get things checked out before you fry the engine.
Radiator fluid question?
change out the thermostat
you should check if the thermostat is not gettint stuck closed if ok check cooling fan
You have a plugged radiator have it removed and cleaned or better yet a new one is best.
if the temp guage is in the middle, and the coolant is boiling, then you have a bad temp guage. the overheating was answered by a previous person. any of the causes they listed could be it, or a combination of several. be prepared for a good size repair bill. if you ignore it you will destroy the motor
change the thermostat.
Replace the Thermostat, check the Hoses and Clamps again. You're losing Pressure Somewhere, along with a Bad Thermostat that is causing the Boiling. Make sure the Thermostat is Pointing the Right way and Centered properly so it will Open %26amp; Close Corroectly. Bad Tune-up or Excessively Lean Fuel Mix. will also contribute to the Overheat.
Radiator fluid question?
Plugged radiator?
Bad water pump?
Bad radiator hose?
Blown head gasket?
Leak in the cooling system?
Take it to a radiator shop and get things checked out before you fry the engine.
Radiator fluid question?
change out the thermostat
you should check if the thermostat is not gettint stuck closed if ok check cooling fan
You have a plugged radiator have it removed and cleaned or better yet a new one is best.
if the temp guage is in the middle, and the coolant is boiling, then you have a bad temp guage. the overheating was answered by a previous person. any of the causes they listed could be it, or a combination of several. be prepared for a good size repair bill. if you ignore it you will destroy the motor
change the thermostat.
Replace the Thermostat, check the Hoses and Clamps again. You're losing Pressure Somewhere, along with a Bad Thermostat that is causing the Boiling. Make sure the Thermostat is Pointing the Right way and Centered properly so it will Open %26amp; Close Corroectly. Bad Tune-up or Excessively Lean Fuel Mix. will also contribute to the Overheat.
Radiator Help?
My radiator hose popped on my 95 accord while sitting at a stop light. I was going to change it awhile ago because the tube was bloated, but it eventually just popped on me. So my question... I put a new tube on and filled up the radiator with 50 coolant/ and 50 water... how come ever since I did this the radiator smokes??? Obviously I will take it into a mechanic but I was just what could be the problem.
Radiator Help?
I think you have residue from the coolant that covered it when it burst.
Radiator Help?
Thermastat is stuck.
It could possibly be many things maybe the pit cock you use to drain the radiator is leaking a little maybe one of your heater hoses is leaking a little or maybe a cooler line for your tranny is leaking a little. If any of these things are leaking on to your radiator it would cause it to smoke. Someone cold tel you more if they looked at it.
You could still have coolant all over the radiator. Depends how long it has been smoking. Take a hose and spray your radiator off really good. If it has been awhile, you could have a small leak from the new hose, possibly needs to be tightened more.
Most likely there is some old anitfreeze/coolant hiding in the radiator %26quot;fins%26quot;. Best thing to do is take it to the do-it-yourself carwash and rinse the radiator down really good with just plain rinse water. Any coolant that got on the motor can be rinsed off while you're doing the radiator.
After you drive it around for a day then you should not see any %26quot;steam%26quot; coming from the radiator. If it continues to %26quot;steam%26quot; then you may have a small leak in the radiator or your new hose isn't clamped tight enough.
Good Luck!
The main problem you could have from this disadventure would be the system requires bleeding from air bubbles.
If the temperature guage is normal then you are ok, otherwise it's a screw somewhere in a high place, open it till water comes out then tighten it.
Apart from that I wouldn't worry about the smoke, but you can rinse it, be careful not to point any water jet at the rad as the fins are real delicate.
Good points been made above, remember that when temperature rises then pressure goes up and if there's a leak or the hose isn't tight then you'll lose water. Best have a look while it's doing it.
how long does it smoke for?and how bad ?there might be a leak in your radiator.If i were you i would take a water hose and spray the radiator on both sides ,rinse it all over then allow it to dry off for about a half hour or so ,then start the car and let the engine get up to temp.if there is a leak it will begin smoking again.How hot did you get the engine when the hose broke?those engines have aluminum heads and easily warp
Radiator Help?
I think you have residue from the coolant that covered it when it burst.
Radiator Help?
Thermastat is stuck.
It could possibly be many things maybe the pit cock you use to drain the radiator is leaking a little maybe one of your heater hoses is leaking a little or maybe a cooler line for your tranny is leaking a little. If any of these things are leaking on to your radiator it would cause it to smoke. Someone cold tel you more if they looked at it.
You could still have coolant all over the radiator. Depends how long it has been smoking. Take a hose and spray your radiator off really good. If it has been awhile, you could have a small leak from the new hose, possibly needs to be tightened more.
Most likely there is some old anitfreeze/coolant hiding in the radiator %26quot;fins%26quot;. Best thing to do is take it to the do-it-yourself carwash and rinse the radiator down really good with just plain rinse water. Any coolant that got on the motor can be rinsed off while you're doing the radiator.
After you drive it around for a day then you should not see any %26quot;steam%26quot; coming from the radiator. If it continues to %26quot;steam%26quot; then you may have a small leak in the radiator or your new hose isn't clamped tight enough.
Good Luck!
The main problem you could have from this disadventure would be the system requires bleeding from air bubbles.
If the temperature guage is normal then you are ok, otherwise it's a screw somewhere in a high place, open it till water comes out then tighten it.
Apart from that I wouldn't worry about the smoke, but you can rinse it, be careful not to point any water jet at the rad as the fins are real delicate.
Good points been made above, remember that when temperature rises then pressure goes up and if there's a leak or the hose isn't tight then you'll lose water. Best have a look while it's doing it.
how long does it smoke for?and how bad ?there might be a leak in your radiator.If i were you i would take a water hose and spray the radiator on both sides ,rinse it all over then allow it to dry off for about a half hour or so ,then start the car and let the engine get up to temp.if there is a leak it will begin smoking again.How hot did you get the engine when the hose broke?those engines have aluminum heads and easily warp
How do you change the thermostat on a 98 BMW 323is?
My car continues to overheat and my husband has replaced the radiator, the hoses and the coolant resevoir. So we think it must be the thermostat. Is it fairly easy to replace for someone who replaced the radiator himself?
How do you change the thermostat on a 98 BMW 323is?
go to a BMW mechanic or dealeremail com and interop
How do you change the thermostat on a 98 BMW 323is?
go to a BMW mechanic or dealer
Car overheats even with new water pump, thermostat, coolant and both hoses, what else is left?
car overheated so i changed the waterpump, thermostat, coolant, upper and lower hoses. car still overheats after only 10 miles of driving. upper and lower hoses are both hot(roughly same temp as engine, will burn you). heater does not blow hot air. thought may be head gasket, but no oil in coolant, the oil is of the same consistancy before overheating problem(black as night) and no white smoke from exhaust. dont know what else could be a problem. radiator cap wasnt changed, but i dont think it would cause to overheat that quickly. please help
Car overheats even with new water pump, thermostat, coolant and both hoses, what else is left?
It is highly likely that you installed the thermostat in backwards if your heater does not blow hot air. That or your heater core is clogged and preventing water from circulating.
I would try this.
Remove the thermostat completely from the car.
Try driving it for the 10 minutes and see if the car overheats. See if your heater now works. If it doesn't overheat and your heater is blowing warm air you had the thermostat installed backward!
If it still overheats and your heater is still blowing cold, you've got a clog some where. Most likely in or around the heater core.
From firewall disconnect hoses going into heater core and connect them together to by pass the heater core.
Now see if the engine still overheats. If not the clog is in the core.
Other things you didn't mention. Do the fans turn on?
E-mail me if you have further problems.
Car overheats even with new water pump, thermostat, coolant and both hoses, what else is left?
if its not blowing out hot air could be a blokege our the pump might be ******
It would help if you gave the car model and year. Guesswork is that you have a fan with a thermocoupling, not an electric fan and the clutch is no good so that it never spins fast enough but the other fact that you get no heat at all and you over heat very quickly points to a clogged cooling system. Have your cooling system power cleaned and don't be surprised if you develop some leaks.
You might have a clutch fan that is not working or an electrical fan that is broken.
radiater could be clogged
If you do not have hot air coming out of the vents it probably means you are not getting coolant to the heater core. Either there is a blockage before the heater core or a leak. This may also happen if the thermostat is put in backwards or if its the wrong temperature thermostat.
Make sure you don,t have a hose collapsing which a lot of time Only happen,s at higher RPM,s
I had the same problem. Is your fan running? If it only it is or if it only runs when your a/c is on it you might have a raidiator problem.
First start off by removing the thermostat, and running the car that way. You can check the operation of the thermostat by putting it in a pot of boiling water to make sure it opens up. If your car is running cool without a thermostat then that is your problem. You can also check to see that you have proper flow by disconnecting the top hose on your radiator and starting the car, there should be a flow of fluid after the car warms up to operating temp. If no flow then you have a bum pump. Also check to make sure that the belt is going in the correct direction on the pump. I hope this helps.
still could be a head gasket you could purchase a combustion leak detecter. This tool would tell you definitly if it is a head gasket or not. Uview makes this tool. part number 560000
Car overheats even with new water pump, thermostat, coolant and both hoses, what else is left?
It is highly likely that you installed the thermostat in backwards if your heater does not blow hot air. That or your heater core is clogged and preventing water from circulating.
I would try this.
Remove the thermostat completely from the car.
Try driving it for the 10 minutes and see if the car overheats. See if your heater now works. If it doesn't overheat and your heater is blowing warm air you had the thermostat installed backward!
If it still overheats and your heater is still blowing cold, you've got a clog some where. Most likely in or around the heater core.
From firewall disconnect hoses going into heater core and connect them together to by pass the heater core.
Now see if the engine still overheats. If not the clog is in the core.
Other things you didn't mention. Do the fans turn on?
E-mail me if you have further problems.
Car overheats even with new water pump, thermostat, coolant and both hoses, what else is left?
if its not blowing out hot air could be a blokege our the pump might be ******
It would help if you gave the car model and year. Guesswork is that you have a fan with a thermocoupling, not an electric fan and the clutch is no good so that it never spins fast enough but the other fact that you get no heat at all and you over heat very quickly points to a clogged cooling system. Have your cooling system power cleaned and don't be surprised if you develop some leaks.
You might have a clutch fan that is not working or an electrical fan that is broken.
radiater could be clogged
If you do not have hot air coming out of the vents it probably means you are not getting coolant to the heater core. Either there is a blockage before the heater core or a leak. This may also happen if the thermostat is put in backwards or if its the wrong temperature thermostat.
Make sure you don,t have a hose collapsing which a lot of time Only happen,s at higher RPM,s
I had the same problem. Is your fan running? If it only it is or if it only runs when your a/c is on it you might have a raidiator problem.
First start off by removing the thermostat, and running the car that way. You can check the operation of the thermostat by putting it in a pot of boiling water to make sure it opens up. If your car is running cool without a thermostat then that is your problem. You can also check to see that you have proper flow by disconnecting the top hose on your radiator and starting the car, there should be a flow of fluid after the car warms up to operating temp. If no flow then you have a bum pump. Also check to make sure that the belt is going in the correct direction on the pump. I hope this helps.
still could be a head gasket you could purchase a combustion leak detecter. This tool would tell you definitly if it is a head gasket or not. Uview makes this tool. part number 560000
97 ford F-250 radiator problems: changed radiator 3X. what could be causing these radiators to start leaking?
At this point I think it's safe to rule out the replacement radiators being bad. I will change the radiator out again, there is a 2 year waranty on them so i'm not getting hosed there, and get a mechanic to check the pressure in the cooling system. After that I just looking for any other ideas as to what else could be causing these radiators to go bad so quickly.
97 ford F-250 radiator problems: changed radiator 3X. what could be causing these radiators to start leaking?
I am assuming you know for a fact it is the radiator, and not something else leaking...
Head gasket leaking combustion gases into the cooling system, over pressurizing it... Fuel warmer leaking into system doing the same... just a few that come to mind.
Just FYI - I have had numerous bad aftermarket radiators come into our shop that were %26quot;bad%26quot; straight out of the box... I mean NUMEROUS... So don't be too quick to rule it out.
97 ford F-250 radiator problems: changed radiator 3X. what could be causing these radiators to start leaking?
are you sure its the radiator thats leaking. just a guess
I'm assuming you have 5.8L engine??
Have you inspected all the hoses??
The small one for the expansion tank (being mounted on the top of the rad.) isn't leaking %26amp; dripping somewhere??
The large ones have no corrosion on the inside where they mount to the rad??
禄禄禄
97 ford F-250 radiator problems: changed radiator 3X. what could be causing these radiators to start leaking?
I am assuming you know for a fact it is the radiator, and not something else leaking...
Head gasket leaking combustion gases into the cooling system, over pressurizing it... Fuel warmer leaking into system doing the same... just a few that come to mind.
Just FYI - I have had numerous bad aftermarket radiators come into our shop that were %26quot;bad%26quot; straight out of the box... I mean NUMEROUS... So don't be too quick to rule it out.
97 ford F-250 radiator problems: changed radiator 3X. what could be causing these radiators to start leaking?
are you sure its the radiator thats leaking. just a guess
I'm assuming you have 5.8L engine??
Have you inspected all the hoses??
The small one for the expansion tank (being mounted on the top of the rad.) isn't leaking %26amp; dripping somewhere??
The large ones have no corrosion on the inside where they mount to the rad??
禄禄禄
What are the effects of improperly installed timing belt on your driving, to the engine and its temperature?
i had my timing belt changed then after, i had a hard time accelerating. i stepped on the accelerator but the car is having a hard time to move. then the temperature gauge went up. and overheated. radiator hose exploded. then i found out that the timing belt was improperly installed. is overheating one the multiple effects of improper installation of timing belt?
What are the effects of improperly installed timing belt on your driving, to the engine and its temperature?
You obviously know the answer to you're question, and yes, overheating is one of the effects of the timing belt being improperly installed.
What are the effects of improperly installed timing belt on your driving, to the engine and its temperature?
depends on the engine
effects of a bad timing can include all of these effects, and even physical damage to the engine. this damage might not show up immediately.
if a shop did this get evidence and make them fix it. this may involve the courts unfortunately.
if you or a friend did this, fix it and learn from the mistake! and check the compression.
Yea... all you need to know is that it will destroy your engine, over a period of time.
THE TIMING OF THE ENGINE MAY HAVE SOMETHING TO DO WITH OVERHEATING I DONT QUITE UNDERSTAND HOW YOU IMPROPERLY INSTALL A TIMIMG BELT.
Yes. With the belt improperly installed the spark is not igniting the air/fuel mixture at the correct position on the piston stroke. Symptoms besides overheating can be loss of power, hard starting, poor fuel economy, and run on(engine continues to run on very poorly when key is turned off).
What are the effects of improperly installed timing belt on your driving, to the engine and its temperature?
You obviously know the answer to you're question, and yes, overheating is one of the effects of the timing belt being improperly installed.
What are the effects of improperly installed timing belt on your driving, to the engine and its temperature?
depends on the engine
effects of a bad timing can include all of these effects, and even physical damage to the engine. this damage might not show up immediately.
if a shop did this get evidence and make them fix it. this may involve the courts unfortunately.
if you or a friend did this, fix it and learn from the mistake! and check the compression.
Yea... all you need to know is that it will destroy your engine, over a period of time.
THE TIMING OF THE ENGINE MAY HAVE SOMETHING TO DO WITH OVERHEATING I DONT QUITE UNDERSTAND HOW YOU IMPROPERLY INSTALL A TIMIMG BELT.
Yes. With the belt improperly installed the spark is not igniting the air/fuel mixture at the correct position on the piston stroke. Symptoms besides overheating can be loss of power, hard starting, poor fuel economy, and run on(engine continues to run on very poorly when key is turned off).
My 1999 Dodge PU is overheating any suggestions what could be the problem?
The engine is a 318. I have changed the thermostat and and flushed the cooling system but did not correct the problem. There is a leak coming from the water pump area and the upper radiator hose will collapse when the vehicle gets hot. The upper hose will get extremely hot while the lower radiator hose is just warm. Need help fast....
My 1999 Dodge PU is overheating any suggestions what could be the problem?
1-800 RADIATOR%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;
My 1999 Dodge PU is overheating any suggestions what could be the problem?
blocked radiator. flushing won't help, need new radiator
sounds like the cap is bad. try this, warm up the truck, shut it down and feel the radiator next to the fan, if you feel cold spots, the radiator is clogged up and needs flushing.
My 1999 Dodge PU is overheating any suggestions what could be the problem?
1-800 RADIATOR%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;
My 1999 Dodge PU is overheating any suggestions what could be the problem?
blocked radiator. flushing won't help, need new radiator
sounds like the cap is bad. try this, warm up the truck, shut it down and feel the radiator next to the fan, if you feel cold spots, the radiator is clogged up and needs flushing.
My car keeps losing coolant from the reserve tank after it warms up?
I have a 1997 Mitsubishi 3000 GT, for some reason it keeps losing coolant from the reserve tank, after you turn on the car and drive it for 20 or 30 mins, I come to a stop I see that it is releasing the water from the hose on the reserve tank. I have already taken the car to a mechanic and 600 dollars later I am still having the problem, the following are components which I have already changed, radiator, thermostat, cooling fan thermostat switch, top and lower radiator hoses, bypass hoses, oil, oil filter, spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, distributor router. The only thing that鈥檚 left is the water pump. I have checked the oil and it does not seem to be mixing with the coolant. Any suggestions.
My car keeps losing coolant from the reserve tank after it warms up?
sounds like a head gasket leaking a pressurising the radiator.usually when its over 175,000 miles.
My car keeps losing coolant from the reserve tank after it warms up?
I assume you are not filling the reservoir tank to the top. Full is usually half way or less on the tank when cold this allows for expansion of the coolant when it gets hot, if you fill it cold it will run out. If you are not then I would remove the radiator cap (when cold) start it up and check for constant bubbles which would indicate a head gasket. Also if your heater works fine then I would look else where before the water pump.
The level on the coolant reservoir will always go down a bit while the car is running, that's 'cause the engine will pull in all that liquid in but, once the engine is off, some coolant will slowly come back to the reservoir, if you pour too much coolant in the reservoir, this container will dump some of it out thru an attached hose on the reservoir itself. You shouldn't worry much about this issue unless you see the temperature gauge in your car going over...if you car over heats then you have a problem.
One possibility is an air lock in your coolant system, this happens when you had a coolant change and it was not bled properly. As the engine gets hot the air in the system pushes the coolant out to the overflow bottle/ reserve tank.
My suggestion is to completely drain the coolant again (to bleed it properly involves tilting the car to the opposite side of the drain plug and switching the heater to max setting to release coolant in heater matrix). Another thing is always do a 50/50 mixture of water and coolant as too much water in your coolant system will just burn away or evaporate.howtofalloutoflovewithsomeone cat
My car keeps losing coolant from the reserve tank after it warms up?
sounds like a head gasket leaking a pressurising the radiator.usually when its over 175,000 miles.
My car keeps losing coolant from the reserve tank after it warms up?
I assume you are not filling the reservoir tank to the top. Full is usually half way or less on the tank when cold this allows for expansion of the coolant when it gets hot, if you fill it cold it will run out. If you are not then I would remove the radiator cap (when cold) start it up and check for constant bubbles which would indicate a head gasket. Also if your heater works fine then I would look else where before the water pump.
The level on the coolant reservoir will always go down a bit while the car is running, that's 'cause the engine will pull in all that liquid in but, once the engine is off, some coolant will slowly come back to the reservoir, if you pour too much coolant in the reservoir, this container will dump some of it out thru an attached hose on the reservoir itself. You shouldn't worry much about this issue unless you see the temperature gauge in your car going over...if you car over heats then you have a problem.
One possibility is an air lock in your coolant system, this happens when you had a coolant change and it was not bled properly. As the engine gets hot the air in the system pushes the coolant out to the overflow bottle/ reserve tank.
My suggestion is to completely drain the coolant again (to bleed it properly involves tilting the car to the opposite side of the drain plug and switching the heater to max setting to release coolant in heater matrix). Another thing is always do a 50/50 mixture of water and coolant as too much water in your coolant system will just burn away or evaporate.
Could this have blocked my relatively NEW radiator?
Ive owned a 1996 V6 Camry ever since day 1. It has never given me any major problems until last year. The radiator got blocked and it started overheating.
I changed the radiator to a NEW one and shortly after this, it started losing coolant bit by bit. It wasnt leaking anywhere. I just discovered last week that it was going into a cylinder indicating a bad head gasket. I bought some ChemiWeld ( which is a sort of stop leak product) which actually stopped the leak, but now my car's fan is coming on all most all of the time even in cool weather, which is what happen last time before i had to replace the radiator.
So my question is, could this chemi-weld product have solved one problem but created another? Could it have blocked my new radiator? The product has only been in there for a week, is there any point to me trying to stick a garden hose in my radiator and flushing it out?
Is there a product i could by to try and flush it out more effectively? or have i stuffed my new radiator?
Could this have blocked my relatively NEW radiator?
This is a dead easy one. The answer to your question is yes it can and it will. Take the radiator out and have it serviced to unblock it. Flush the cars cooling system out with clean water, including the expansion tank and heater and DO NOT use coolant as the head will start to leak again very soon. As you can't leave plain water in your engine for long you will have to repair the cylinder head(s). Using plain water for now will give you a bit of breathing space.
Could this have blocked my relatively NEW radiator?
i voted for the other guy
but wanted to add there is nothing made that you can pour into a motor that wil repair it
might be something to slow down failing but nothing repairs
you can flush the cooling system but then have to repair the head gasket either way it needs to be replace
and now on never pour anything into your motor or trans if you have a problem fix it right
you can add treatments to protect but none repair
Could be the heater core which is blocked.This is just like a small radiator and has much smaller tubes running through it .If blocked, it will prevent coolant from circulating.There's no easy fix for failed head gasket.
Hmm is it actually overheating though? You never mentioned that. If it's not overheating, I wouldn't worry too much. If the ChemiWeld has blocked up your radiator, the engine would be getting pretty hot, if it's not getting hot, just relaaaaaaaaaaaaax. But one thing is for sure: you can't just ignore the cylinder head problem for an indefinite period of time. You should at least start getting quotes for the work, or for the parts if you intend to do the work yourself.
ChemiWeld is a temporary solution to a major problem. This is just a guess, but I'm thinking I'm right on the money: Your head gasket is leaking because you let the car overheat in the first place. Usually when you overheat an engine, it warps the head or blows the head gasket, and then after you've eliminated the cause of the overheating, you have to have the head(s) redone. So now you know that a simple problem, when it's ignored for too long, can cause major problems.
I hope you'll get your heads done, and then figure everything else out from there. Like I say, if the engine isn't overheating, I wouldn't worry too much about your cooling system, but you KNOW you have head problems, so solve that first. Don't listen too much to your thermofans cutting in and out, just watch your temp gauge, that'll tell you everything you need to know.
You have already wasted many $$$. NEVER replace any part 'till you KNOW the problem. The coolant loss bit by bit is quite normal through evaporation, not usually a leak. If there is coolant in your oil you have a problem. How did you decide it was a head gasket? There are many %26quot;mekaniks%26quot; out there who love to rip you off. Go to a RADIATOR SHOP, not an auto repair, and have your cooling system checked, I would doubt that the leak stop additive you applied is at fault. Go see a pro and quit wasting time guessing. The fan coming on is quite normal even in cold weather as the engine gets just at hot in cold as it does in warm weather.
ChemiWeld causes a coating right through your cooling system including the radiator. That coating restricts heat transfer from the radiator tubes to the passing air. You won't get it out of the radiator even with a fire hose.
The right fix is to have the cylinder head taken off and machined and reassembled with a new head gasket, do both heads at the same time, it won't cost a lot more. Replace the radiator, again, and only add coolant in future.
I have seen this problem too many time before, in older cars with a larger radiator it worked but not on modern cars.
It might not be blocking the radiator, any blockage in the cooling system would slow down the flow which can cause it to overheat. Try taking the top hose off the radiator, stick a hose in the top of the rad and fire the engine up, the hose will keep water going in and you will be able to see how fast water is coming out of the engine from the top hose. It might have blocked the thermostat as that is a bit of a bottle neck.
Also check the oil to make sure there isn't any water in there if it has been leaking internally.
I changed the radiator to a NEW one and shortly after this, it started losing coolant bit by bit. It wasnt leaking anywhere. I just discovered last week that it was going into a cylinder indicating a bad head gasket. I bought some ChemiWeld ( which is a sort of stop leak product) which actually stopped the leak, but now my car's fan is coming on all most all of the time even in cool weather, which is what happen last time before i had to replace the radiator.
So my question is, could this chemi-weld product have solved one problem but created another? Could it have blocked my new radiator? The product has only been in there for a week, is there any point to me trying to stick a garden hose in my radiator and flushing it out?
Is there a product i could by to try and flush it out more effectively? or have i stuffed my new radiator?
Could this have blocked my relatively NEW radiator?
This is a dead easy one. The answer to your question is yes it can and it will. Take the radiator out and have it serviced to unblock it. Flush the cars cooling system out with clean water, including the expansion tank and heater and DO NOT use coolant as the head will start to leak again very soon. As you can't leave plain water in your engine for long you will have to repair the cylinder head(s). Using plain water for now will give you a bit of breathing space.
Could this have blocked my relatively NEW radiator?
i voted for the other guy
but wanted to add there is nothing made that you can pour into a motor that wil repair it
might be something to slow down failing but nothing repairs
you can flush the cooling system but then have to repair the head gasket either way it needs to be replace
and now on never pour anything into your motor or trans if you have a problem fix it right
you can add treatments to protect but none repair
Could be the heater core which is blocked.This is just like a small radiator and has much smaller tubes running through it .If blocked, it will prevent coolant from circulating.There's no easy fix for failed head gasket.
Hmm is it actually overheating though? You never mentioned that. If it's not overheating, I wouldn't worry too much. If the ChemiWeld has blocked up your radiator, the engine would be getting pretty hot, if it's not getting hot, just relaaaaaaaaaaaaax. But one thing is for sure: you can't just ignore the cylinder head problem for an indefinite period of time. You should at least start getting quotes for the work, or for the parts if you intend to do the work yourself.
ChemiWeld is a temporary solution to a major problem. This is just a guess, but I'm thinking I'm right on the money: Your head gasket is leaking because you let the car overheat in the first place. Usually when you overheat an engine, it warps the head or blows the head gasket, and then after you've eliminated the cause of the overheating, you have to have the head(s) redone. So now you know that a simple problem, when it's ignored for too long, can cause major problems.
I hope you'll get your heads done, and then figure everything else out from there. Like I say, if the engine isn't overheating, I wouldn't worry too much about your cooling system, but you KNOW you have head problems, so solve that first. Don't listen too much to your thermofans cutting in and out, just watch your temp gauge, that'll tell you everything you need to know.
You have already wasted many $$$. NEVER replace any part 'till you KNOW the problem. The coolant loss bit by bit is quite normal through evaporation, not usually a leak. If there is coolant in your oil you have a problem. How did you decide it was a head gasket? There are many %26quot;mekaniks%26quot; out there who love to rip you off. Go to a RADIATOR SHOP, not an auto repair, and have your cooling system checked, I would doubt that the leak stop additive you applied is at fault. Go see a pro and quit wasting time guessing. The fan coming on is quite normal even in cold weather as the engine gets just at hot in cold as it does in warm weather.
ChemiWeld causes a coating right through your cooling system including the radiator. That coating restricts heat transfer from the radiator tubes to the passing air. You won't get it out of the radiator even with a fire hose.
The right fix is to have the cylinder head taken off and machined and reassembled with a new head gasket, do both heads at the same time, it won't cost a lot more. Replace the radiator, again, and only add coolant in future.
I have seen this problem too many time before, in older cars with a larger radiator it worked but not on modern cars.
It might not be blocking the radiator, any blockage in the cooling system would slow down the flow which can cause it to overheat. Try taking the top hose off the radiator, stick a hose in the top of the rad and fire the engine up, the hose will keep water going in and you will be able to see how fast water is coming out of the engine from the top hose. It might have blocked the thermostat as that is a bit of a bottle neck.
Also check the oil to make sure there isn't any water in there if it has been leaking internally.
How do you know the water pump on your car is gone out?
I broke down the other day and my top radiator hose popped of due to alot of pressure.I put it back on and seen the car wasn't running hot. I drove to the Gas station not even 2 min down the road and pulled over,right when I get into the gas it starts to rattle really loud!!But the car wasn't running hot at all.Now that I hav changed the thermostat its running hot and has a loud rattle going.I was told the water pump went out and the rattle was the bearing inside that broker lose and moving around.Please help,any advice I would greatly appericate.
How do you know the water pump on your car is gone out?
They may be right whoever told you that... Most time the water pump will leak also. but... If the hoses keep coming off whats building the pressure to pop it... Did you put the thermostat in correctly? I've had times when the thermostat I bought was bad to begin with... The rattle from the bearing would make sense too though so I'm going to assume that they are correct and you'll have to replace it...
How do you know the water pump on your car is gone out?
you should see coolant seeping from it. they have weep holes on top %26amp; bottom. also check that your fan is working properly.
it will make a noise you will also have a water leak you should also have someone to check your thermastat could also have ratiator stoped up get some one to check all of that for you i hope i was able to help you linda1
Usually, when a water pump 'goes out', two things can happen. 1) the seal fails (usually due to the second thing) and water drips or runs out the front. 2) the bearing goes out and you'll sometimes get some noise.
When the coolant goes out and gets low, the boiling can push the water to the top of the radiator like you saw. The system is really out of water and your sensor has no hot water on it and does not always read hot or overheated. Driving on can cause the crankshaft and connecting rod bearings to fail because the extreme over temp of your engine caused the lube oil to become too thin to provide adequate lubrication. Basically, you 'cooked' your engine.
What should have happened was to let the car sit until it cooled down completely, then add coolant back to the proper level after you did the hose repair. Start it and let it warm, then recheck the level of coolant, it will usually change and need more.
I suspect a pocket of air is trapped in the upper portion of your cooling system.
When your radiator hose broke, you obviously lost most if not all of your coolant.
When the coolant was replaced, you now possibly have an air pocket inside your engine. There should be an air bleeder valve near the top of your engine cooling system.
Open this valve slightly to allow the trapped air to escape. Close the valve when coolant comes out of the valve. If no coolant comes out, add more coolant to the cooling system until coolant comes out of the bleeder valve. Then close the valve. Repeat this process after a few days.
Signs of a bad water pump.
Overheating obviously
Coolant leaking from the water pump.
With the engine off, see if you can rock the water pump pulley from side to side. If you can rock the pulley from side to side, the water pump bearings are worn out or damaged and the pump needs to be replaced.
yes it is the water pump. change it and have the whole system flushed
How do you know the water pump on your car is gone out?
They may be right whoever told you that... Most time the water pump will leak also. but... If the hoses keep coming off whats building the pressure to pop it... Did you put the thermostat in correctly? I've had times when the thermostat I bought was bad to begin with... The rattle from the bearing would make sense too though so I'm going to assume that they are correct and you'll have to replace it...
How do you know the water pump on your car is gone out?
you should see coolant seeping from it. they have weep holes on top %26amp; bottom. also check that your fan is working properly.
it will make a noise you will also have a water leak you should also have someone to check your thermastat could also have ratiator stoped up get some one to check all of that for you i hope i was able to help you linda1
Usually, when a water pump 'goes out', two things can happen. 1) the seal fails (usually due to the second thing) and water drips or runs out the front. 2) the bearing goes out and you'll sometimes get some noise.
When the coolant goes out and gets low, the boiling can push the water to the top of the radiator like you saw. The system is really out of water and your sensor has no hot water on it and does not always read hot or overheated. Driving on can cause the crankshaft and connecting rod bearings to fail because the extreme over temp of your engine caused the lube oil to become too thin to provide adequate lubrication. Basically, you 'cooked' your engine.
What should have happened was to let the car sit until it cooled down completely, then add coolant back to the proper level after you did the hose repair. Start it and let it warm, then recheck the level of coolant, it will usually change and need more.
I suspect a pocket of air is trapped in the upper portion of your cooling system.
When your radiator hose broke, you obviously lost most if not all of your coolant.
When the coolant was replaced, you now possibly have an air pocket inside your engine. There should be an air bleeder valve near the top of your engine cooling system.
Open this valve slightly to allow the trapped air to escape. Close the valve when coolant comes out of the valve. If no coolant comes out, add more coolant to the cooling system until coolant comes out of the bleeder valve. Then close the valve. Repeat this process after a few days.
Signs of a bad water pump.
Overheating obviously
Coolant leaking from the water pump.
With the engine off, see if you can rock the water pump pulley from side to side. If you can rock the pulley from side to side, the water pump bearings are worn out or damaged and the pump needs to be replaced.
yes it is the water pump. change it and have the whole system flushed
It still overheats after running for 5 hours.?
2001 dodge Intrepid 2.7. Changed the radiator, thermostat, hoses and such mut why is it doing this? Going to change the water pump tomorrow
It still overheats after running for 5 hours.?
Sorry to find this funny but you seem to be in the same boat as me but ive got a nissan patrol.
Now have you checked to see if your clutch fan is going? Check this.
How is your thermo fan?
When does it occour, when your going stoped, on the highway etc?
Are you loosing water or oil?
Hows your timming?
Keep us updated and good luck.
It still overheats after running for 5 hours.?
hope you didn't warp anything?
well for starters check the oil and then if that aint the problem then look for leaks clocked hoses
It still overheats after running for 5 hours.?
Sorry to find this funny but you seem to be in the same boat as me but ive got a nissan patrol.
Now have you checked to see if your clutch fan is going? Check this.
How is your thermo fan?
When does it occour, when your going stoped, on the highway etc?
Are you loosing water or oil?
Hows your timming?
Keep us updated and good luck.
It still overheats after running for 5 hours.?
hope you didn't warp anything?
well for starters check the oil and then if that aint the problem then look for leaks clocked hoses
Is it time to get a new car?
I have a 1995 Honda civic, that has been a problem off and on for the last two years, I had a rebuilt replacement of the head gasket appx 5 1/2 years ago; and the radiator replaced shortly after. I had my first overheating experience since the head gasket replacement in the summer of 2007, and then several times after that, the problem appeared to the ruptured radiator hose each time. however, I had my last radiator hose change appx 2 weeks ago, but once again this past Thursday I had yet another overheat, I spoke to a mechanic he says that the head gasket is the problem, however, he will not replace it and that it would be best for me to just get a new engine. This is really starting to stress me out, I hate to call off work as this is starting to cut in to my perfect attendance, Can someone please give me there opinions and suggestions please!
Is it time to get a new car?
The best I can explain this situation to you is the following: When the cylinder head was initially removed it should have been checked for flatness with a very expensive precision straight edge. If the face of the cylinder head wasn't absolutely flat it should have been re-machined flat again. Right here is only half the issue. The cylinder head may have been re-machined flat but the mating surface of the block probably was not checked for flatness as it would have been very expensive to pull the engine strip it down and machine the block flat for a perfect job.
Next time buy a Toyota. Honda's are wannabeeToyota's
Is it time to get a new car?
yeah i would get a new car or a newer one =)
there is obviously something more than a head gasket
it,s not quiet time yet for a new car ! start figuring ! write down everything your car needs and check the prices and now figure what another car will cost you. it,s cheaper to keep your own car and fix it then get another 1. besides you don,t know what your getting hold of.
What's more cost effective for you? You can replace the car for thousands of dollars or search 95 honda civic motor (ebay) and come up with a resolution that might be better for your situation. If it's a good car other than the motor it's an easy fix. If you want a new car get one but who's to say you're not getting someone else's problem? How are your brakes, tire's, exhaust, etc. and consider the price of fixing all that needs fixed and make your choice.
My son went through the same thing with his Honda Civic and his mechanic said the same thing as yours. I agree that you should not repair your current engine. I would get a new car.
14 year old Honda? Probably needs a new or at least rebuilt engine? Dump it! It is only going to get worse as more and more components fail and have to be replaced. Car payments suck, but having a ride you can depend on is a priority. Have you looked into leasing? In some ways that can be an attractive option, depending on your driving habits.
yep, time for a new chevy cobalt XFE.
Is it time to get a new car?
The best I can explain this situation to you is the following: When the cylinder head was initially removed it should have been checked for flatness with a very expensive precision straight edge. If the face of the cylinder head wasn't absolutely flat it should have been re-machined flat again. Right here is only half the issue. The cylinder head may have been re-machined flat but the mating surface of the block probably was not checked for flatness as it would have been very expensive to pull the engine strip it down and machine the block flat for a perfect job.
Next time buy a Toyota. Honda's are wannabeeToyota's
Is it time to get a new car?
yeah i would get a new car or a newer one =)
there is obviously something more than a head gasket
it,s not quiet time yet for a new car ! start figuring ! write down everything your car needs and check the prices and now figure what another car will cost you. it,s cheaper to keep your own car and fix it then get another 1. besides you don,t know what your getting hold of.
What's more cost effective for you? You can replace the car for thousands of dollars or search 95 honda civic motor (ebay) and come up with a resolution that might be better for your situation. If it's a good car other than the motor it's an easy fix. If you want a new car get one but who's to say you're not getting someone else's problem? How are your brakes, tire's, exhaust, etc. and consider the price of fixing all that needs fixed and make your choice.
My son went through the same thing with his Honda Civic and his mechanic said the same thing as yours. I agree that you should not repair your current engine. I would get a new car.
14 year old Honda? Probably needs a new or at least rebuilt engine? Dump it! It is only going to get worse as more and more components fail and have to be replaced. Car payments suck, but having a ride you can depend on is a priority. Have you looked into leasing? In some ways that can be an attractive option, depending on your driving habits.
yep, time for a new chevy cobalt XFE.
HELP!My motor is making a loud Rattling noise and running hot whats wrong?
On my way to lunch the the top radiator hose popped off so I pull over place it back.I get down the road and it starts to rattle really loud.I pull over at the gas station and the top radiator hose popped off again.We changed the Thermostat and Its still doing it,also I have no heat when it does this,And at the store no rattle,but the more you push the gas the louder the rattle gets,and the check engine light is on.Please help
HELP!My motor is making a loud Rattling noise and running hot whats wrong?
I would say, go look for a new car. That one has had it. You have blown a head gasket, and maybe thrown a rod.
Sounds like a 800.00 - 2000.00 problem, so is it worth fixing?
HELP!My motor is making a loud Rattling noise and running hot whats wrong?
how i know?
you damaged the motor. Take it to a mechanic shop and get it checked out.
something wrong with ur radiator. maybe its pumping fan is not working. u better check it soon coz it might do harm 2 ur engine.
DO NOT DRIVE THE VEHICLE ANY FURTHER THAN YOU ALREADY HAVE. If you can't figure out what's knocking with the knowledge you have take it to a shop. If you absolutley must, have it towed to your home and buy a haynes manual. The rattle can be a few different things...
well when you popped the hose off the first time you probably drained it of coolant..when you put the hose back on and kept driving there wasnt any more coolant in there so you might have cooked something bad
ever check the oil or water level in those 2 years... check waterpump. over heating it will kill it. sound like you blew head gasket or worse...DON'T drive it...
SOUNDS LIKE THE WATER PUMP .
TAKE IT IN FOR REPAIRdatabase cemetery plot
HELP!My motor is making a loud Rattling noise and running hot whats wrong?
I would say, go look for a new car. That one has had it. You have blown a head gasket, and maybe thrown a rod.
Sounds like a 800.00 - 2000.00 problem, so is it worth fixing?
HELP!My motor is making a loud Rattling noise and running hot whats wrong?
how i know?
you damaged the motor. Take it to a mechanic shop and get it checked out.
something wrong with ur radiator. maybe its pumping fan is not working. u better check it soon coz it might do harm 2 ur engine.
DO NOT DRIVE THE VEHICLE ANY FURTHER THAN YOU ALREADY HAVE. If you can't figure out what's knocking with the knowledge you have take it to a shop. If you absolutley must, have it towed to your home and buy a haynes manual. The rattle can be a few different things...
well when you popped the hose off the first time you probably drained it of coolant..when you put the hose back on and kept driving there wasnt any more coolant in there so you might have cooked something bad
ever check the oil or water level in those 2 years... check waterpump. over heating it will kill it. sound like you blew head gasket or worse...DON'T drive it...
SOUNDS LIKE THE WATER PUMP .
TAKE IT IN FOR REPAIR
Can you help me with this problem I have with my car?
My radiator was leaking, I changed the radiator and all the hoses and when I got done water was shooting out of the tailpipe... what the heck is going on there? It acted like the thermostat was stuck, because there was alot of pressure on the hoses, so I took the thermostat out and there is still alot of pressure on the hoses and it shot water out of the tailpipe. it is weird. If you can help me with this I sure would appreciate it.Thank you very much.
Can you help me with this problem I have with my car?
hyouve aa blown hEad gasket
Can you help me with this problem I have with my car?
are you putting water in the engine coolant tank
did you overheat the engine?, sounds like you have a bad head gasket.
You have a severely cracked head,not you ...the cars head.
You need to replace your head gasket.
Have fun. O_o%26quot;
bad head gasket,cracked head or cracked block. if you don't have right tools to diagnose take it in
Blown head gasket. It's going to cost you at least $700.
Can you help me with this problem I have with my car?
hyouve aa blown hEad gasket
Can you help me with this problem I have with my car?
are you putting water in the engine coolant tank
did you overheat the engine?, sounds like you have a bad head gasket.
You have a severely cracked head,not you ...the cars head.
You need to replace your head gasket.
Have fun. O_o%26quot;
bad head gasket,cracked head or cracked block. if you don't have right tools to diagnose take it in
Blown head gasket. It's going to cost you at least $700.
2000 Ford Ranger Overheating Mystery?
My son's 2000 Ford Ranger, 3.0 V6 overheats. We have replaced everything (that we know of) except putting in a new engine. It started about a year ago when it overheated. Took it to our trusty mechanic shop. They replaced the radiator and thermostat. After it overheated again, my son replaced the water pump and the problem persisted. The mechanic then suggested it might have a bad head gasket. The mechanic put some Stop leak in as a temporary fix. It turned out to be drivable IF the truck was warmed up enough to open the thermostat (had to wait for the gauge to go up and then drop down and then level out in the correct spot). If you tried to drive it without a warm up, it would overheat as soon as the thermostat opened. Also, a low temp thermostat was put in. A couple of months ago it overheated after shutting off the engine (water and lots of bubbling noise came from the overflow reservoir. My son decided to change the head gaskets. The heads were resurfaced, new seals, exhaust valve seats and all looked good. The thermostat was again replaced. New coolant in place and it was ready to test drive. The truck was driven for about a half an hour from a cold start.. It didn't overheat. Thinking we've fixed it, my son takes it out, stops by a friends house about a mile away to pick something up. He leaves the truck running and when he comes back out about 5 minutes later the gauge is pegged. At that point, the following parts were changed - radiator, fan clutch, coolant temp sensor, thermostat, upper radiator hose, and sensor elbow.
Again parts replaced and repaired since the first overheat include:
2 radiators
1 water pump
1 coolant temp sensor
1 elbow (coolant sensor attaches to it)
1 elbow (attaches to the smaller hose of the lower radiator hose)
6 thermostats
2 fan clutches
2 sets of upper and lower radiator hoses
Head gaskets and complete seal/gasket kit
Heads resurfaced and fixed with new exhaust valve seats
Head bolts and header bolts
2 Radiator caps
We're out of ideas and need some help. Many thanks, in advance, if you've had a similar, resolved problem or think you might know what's going on.
2000 Ford Ranger Overheating Mystery?
Ok, was the head gaskets put on the correct way, they are have the words FRONT wrote on them and easy to over look unless you know they are there, if installed backwards then you may have fixed 1 problem only to creat another. I have seen this happen before and is an easy mistake to do. 1 Gasket will have FRONT and you will see the words at the front of the motor, the other side will be turned over so the FRONT is still at the front just flipped upside down
2000 Ford Ranger Overheating Mystery?
Have you replaced the bottom radiator hose? A soft hose can be sucked flat by the water pump %26amp; stop water circulation. After everything cools down, the hose pops back open %26amp; looks fine. That's why some bottom hoses have like a steel coil spring inside them.
Hate to tell you this, but it's east to check for head gasket failure/ cracked head- pull the plugs, look at the business end for rust, any time it's been overheated then sat for a few days- you can also sniff for anti-freeze
Couldn't find a good picture, but there should be a place to %26quot;burp%26quot; excess air out of the engine- usually located right in front, either On, or right behind, the outlet/thermostat housing-looks like either a bolt with no purpose, or it might look like a brake bleeder,either way, if an air pocket stays in the top of the engine, it'll stay there, and get HUNDREDS of degrees hotter than the water !
To burp it, run it for just a couple minutes, shut her down, wait for water to get heat from engine- maybe 5 minutes-then open the valve, close when no more air comes out-just water.
*** you might have to do this 2 or 3 times to get all the air!
Has an automotive technician ever verified if there are actually any exhaust gases present in the radiator/cooling system? This can be done either with a chemical method %26quot;Block Check%26quot; or with an exhaust analyzer which will measure the presence of unburned hydrocarbons in the coolant. Are you using factory replacement parts or after market parts? There are no known overheating problems with the Ranger 3.0L engine, and the radiator is a single row design with no HD version with 2 rows available.
Do you run a 50/50 mix of the correct coolant/water? Running 100% coolant can cause the engine to overheat. What thermostat are you running, does it have an air bleed passage? we used to drill a small bleed hole to prevent trapped air behind the stat.
Again parts replaced and repaired since the first overheat include:
2 radiators
1 water pump
1 coolant temp sensor
1 elbow (coolant sensor attaches to it)
1 elbow (attaches to the smaller hose of the lower radiator hose)
6 thermostats
2 fan clutches
2 sets of upper and lower radiator hoses
Head gaskets and complete seal/gasket kit
Heads resurfaced and fixed with new exhaust valve seats
Head bolts and header bolts
2 Radiator caps
We're out of ideas and need some help. Many thanks, in advance, if you've had a similar, resolved problem or think you might know what's going on.
2000 Ford Ranger Overheating Mystery?
Ok, was the head gaskets put on the correct way, they are have the words FRONT wrote on them and easy to over look unless you know they are there, if installed backwards then you may have fixed 1 problem only to creat another. I have seen this happen before and is an easy mistake to do. 1 Gasket will have FRONT and you will see the words at the front of the motor, the other side will be turned over so the FRONT is still at the front just flipped upside down
2000 Ford Ranger Overheating Mystery?
Have you replaced the bottom radiator hose? A soft hose can be sucked flat by the water pump %26amp; stop water circulation. After everything cools down, the hose pops back open %26amp; looks fine. That's why some bottom hoses have like a steel coil spring inside them.
Hate to tell you this, but it's east to check for head gasket failure/ cracked head- pull the plugs, look at the business end for rust, any time it's been overheated then sat for a few days- you can also sniff for anti-freeze
Couldn't find a good picture, but there should be a place to %26quot;burp%26quot; excess air out of the engine- usually located right in front, either On, or right behind, the outlet/thermostat housing-looks like either a bolt with no purpose, or it might look like a brake bleeder,either way, if an air pocket stays in the top of the engine, it'll stay there, and get HUNDREDS of degrees hotter than the water !
To burp it, run it for just a couple minutes, shut her down, wait for water to get heat from engine- maybe 5 minutes-then open the valve, close when no more air comes out-just water.
*** you might have to do this 2 or 3 times to get all the air!
Has an automotive technician ever verified if there are actually any exhaust gases present in the radiator/cooling system? This can be done either with a chemical method %26quot;Block Check%26quot; or with an exhaust analyzer which will measure the presence of unburned hydrocarbons in the coolant. Are you using factory replacement parts or after market parts? There are no known overheating problems with the Ranger 3.0L engine, and the radiator is a single row design with no HD version with 2 rows available.
Do you run a 50/50 mix of the correct coolant/water? Running 100% coolant can cause the engine to overheat. What thermostat are you running, does it have an air bleed passage? we used to drill a small bleed hole to prevent trapped air behind the stat.
My 97 camaro is overheating. ive changed the water pump thermostat flushed d radiator new coolant?
I've changed everything but the temp sensor I dnt know if its sending the wrong info because even when I have the a/c on and fans are working it still over heats. I've done everything bleeded the air out and changed hoses and still the same
My 97 camaro is overheating. ive changed the water pump thermostat flushed d radiator new coolant?
Are you sure it's overheating? You can't always trust the gauge on the dash. A mechanic needs to check the temp of the radiator using an infrared meter or a mechanical temp gauge. Other than that, suspect a head gasket leak, or maybe the timing is off, or some water passage is blocked somewhere. Flushing the radiator doesn't necessarily mean the radiator is now clear either.
My 97 camaro is overheating. ive changed the water pump thermostat flushed d radiator new coolant?
You may want to check for blown head gasket. Was the car over heated before you replace all those cooling parts?
Check and adjust the timing with a time pistol maybe is just that, check if is any water on your oil lets hope there is nothing there and is just the timing. other wise maybe you have a crack head, Also make sure you have the correct cap in the radiator maybe is just that the pressure that goes with that particular car because you maybe have a bad cap and that will be simple buy a new one in any auto parts.
I hope is nothing mayor and you will be a happy driver again.
Sounds like maybe the radiator core could use a good professional rod-out. But are you sure it is really running hot and that the coolant temperature sensor signal is not faulty? I suggest you use a radiator temperature thermometer (or a meat thermometer) to probe the coolant temp to verify the temperature sensor signal.
check the head gasket. and get a new radiator. they run for about 300 but its worth not having to spend 1000 for head work. if it constantly overheats u may already need headwork
My 97 camaro is overheating. ive changed the water pump thermostat flushed d radiator new coolant?
Are you sure it's overheating? You can't always trust the gauge on the dash. A mechanic needs to check the temp of the radiator using an infrared meter or a mechanical temp gauge. Other than that, suspect a head gasket leak, or maybe the timing is off, or some water passage is blocked somewhere. Flushing the radiator doesn't necessarily mean the radiator is now clear either.
My 97 camaro is overheating. ive changed the water pump thermostat flushed d radiator new coolant?
You may want to check for blown head gasket. Was the car over heated before you replace all those cooling parts?
Check and adjust the timing with a time pistol maybe is just that, check if is any water on your oil lets hope there is nothing there and is just the timing. other wise maybe you have a crack head, Also make sure you have the correct cap in the radiator maybe is just that the pressure that goes with that particular car because you maybe have a bad cap and that will be simple buy a new one in any auto parts.
I hope is nothing mayor and you will be a happy driver again.
Sounds like maybe the radiator core could use a good professional rod-out. But are you sure it is really running hot and that the coolant temperature sensor signal is not faulty? I suggest you use a radiator temperature thermometer (or a meat thermometer) to probe the coolant temp to verify the temperature sensor signal.
check the head gasket. and get a new radiator. they run for about 300 but its worth not having to spend 1000 for head work. if it constantly overheats u may already need headwork
I have a 91 plymouth voyger and have problem with pressure building up in my radiatior hose. what could be the
I have change the radiator, water pump, hoses, themostat, and pressure is still building in the top hose with 5 mins of start up.
I have a 91 plymouth voyger and have problem with pressure building up in my radiatior hose. what could be the
1988 caravan with 3.0L engine did that. It had a bad head gasket. The hole was so tiny only a small amount of pressure coould get through. In time it will get bad enough to squirt antifreeze into the engine and it will have a very sweet smell when you first start it.
I have a 91 plymouth voyger and have problem with pressure building up in my radiatior hose. what could be the
Well, you should have some pressure in the hose, as the entire system is pressurized.
If you've already changed everything else, like you said, and the pressure is above normal (between10-15 psi), Then either check for an obstruction in the system, or have your radiator cap checked. The cap is set for a certain pressure, say 15 psi. If the system builds more than 15 psi, the cap will vent the excess pressure, but if its stuck or worn out, then it will build a lot of pressure
IF it's ALOT of pressure %26amp; keeps building UP U might gave a Blown HeaD Gasket.Fill the Radiator up %26amp; start the engine %26amp; look if there are ANY bubbles coming up in the water where the radiator cap connects (filler neck).LOOK 2 C if the Engine oil is Black or clean OR MILK Colored.If Milky U have a cracked head or engine block.OR if the Thermostat is in backwards.
how much pressure? a little pressure below say 5 psi could be normal but more than that may be indicative of problems. does the engine overheat?
if so you could have a cylinder head gasket problem.
go to napa buy a block check kit.
remove radiator cap and lower coolant level about 1/3 to 1/2 gallon.
fill block check device with it's blue liquid to the full line. cram stopper in radiator cap opening ans start cold engine. allow to run until thermostat opens. if blue liquid turns greenish or yellow then exhast gases are present in coolant.
most likely blown head gasket- remove head and have a machinist resurface it. and check for cracks.
could be a cracked head or blown gasket,remove radiator cap when engine is cold ,start engine and look for constant bubbles in coolant,there will be a few bubbles at the start but they should clear after a few mins.If there is constant bubbles it mmeans compression is getting in to cooling system.
I have a 91 plymouth voyger and have problem with pressure building up in my radiatior hose. what could be the
1988 caravan with 3.0L engine did that. It had a bad head gasket. The hole was so tiny only a small amount of pressure coould get through. In time it will get bad enough to squirt antifreeze into the engine and it will have a very sweet smell when you first start it.
I have a 91 plymouth voyger and have problem with pressure building up in my radiatior hose. what could be the
Well, you should have some pressure in the hose, as the entire system is pressurized.
If you've already changed everything else, like you said, and the pressure is above normal (between10-15 psi), Then either check for an obstruction in the system, or have your radiator cap checked. The cap is set for a certain pressure, say 15 psi. If the system builds more than 15 psi, the cap will vent the excess pressure, but if its stuck or worn out, then it will build a lot of pressure
IF it's ALOT of pressure %26amp; keeps building UP U might gave a Blown HeaD Gasket.Fill the Radiator up %26amp; start the engine %26amp; look if there are ANY bubbles coming up in the water where the radiator cap connects (filler neck).LOOK 2 C if the Engine oil is Black or clean OR MILK Colored.If Milky U have a cracked head or engine block.OR if the Thermostat is in backwards.
how much pressure? a little pressure below say 5 psi could be normal but more than that may be indicative of problems. does the engine overheat?
if so you could have a cylinder head gasket problem.
go to napa buy a block check kit.
remove radiator cap and lower coolant level about 1/3 to 1/2 gallon.
fill block check device with it's blue liquid to the full line. cram stopper in radiator cap opening ans start cold engine. allow to run until thermostat opens. if blue liquid turns greenish or yellow then exhast gases are present in coolant.
most likely blown head gasket- remove head and have a machinist resurface it. and check for cracks.
could be a cracked head or blown gasket,remove radiator cap when engine is cold ,start engine and look for constant bubbles in coolant,there will be a few bubbles at the start but they should clear after a few mins.If there is constant bubbles it mmeans compression is getting in to cooling system.
95 cadillac seville northstar engine sls Had a leaky water pump so I changed it. When I started engine the?
cooling fans ran for 3 seconds and have not come back on. The top heater hose to radiator is red hot and the bottom radiator hose which connects to thermostat housing is ice cold. Coolant temp reaches 210 degrees in about 10 minutes. Could the thermostat suddenly gone bad, it was ok before I changed the pump????
95 cadillac seville northstar engine sls Had a leaky water pump so I changed it. When I started engine the?
You have an air lock, bleed the air from the cooling system,
hot water not air will allow the stat to open
do this by loosening hose to remove air, then start engine
95 cadillac seville northstar engine sls Had a leaky water pump so I changed it. When I started engine the?
OK One Fan is for the A/C Condenser, Does it come on when you turn on the A/C? If not you may have inadvertently shorted the wiring when Replacing the Pump. Radiator fan most likely is the Thermostat! Sensor the Signals the Relay to Cycle the fan works only with the Thermostat Open and Coolant is Flowing. Good Radiator Shop if you're not sure how to Repair the System. Cooling Systems on the %26quot;NorStar Engines%26quot; are Good (In most cases Better) but Difficult to handle some times.
you have an air pocket in the system as bustass says,but do not remove the hose,just remove the cap l;et run to operating temp with the heat on and the fan speed on high,let run till cooling fans cycle you will see the system burp,also squeeze the upper radiator hose a couple of times while the cap is off.once all the air is out you can refill the coolant to the hot level,replace the cap and your good to go.
Make sure you got the right water pump
depending on the options for you car, the belt may route a different way which sometimes turns the water pump backwards!!!
Sound crazy but I've seen it before
Similar pumps may fit the engine but it's internal fins maybe wrong for your application
Yes
sounds like it, it is easier to change the thermostat, and see if that works than redoing the waterpump
Good Luck!client time baby ducks eat
95 cadillac seville northstar engine sls Had a leaky water pump so I changed it. When I started engine the?
You have an air lock, bleed the air from the cooling system,
hot water not air will allow the stat to open
do this by loosening hose to remove air, then start engine
95 cadillac seville northstar engine sls Had a leaky water pump so I changed it. When I started engine the?
OK One Fan is for the A/C Condenser, Does it come on when you turn on the A/C? If not you may have inadvertently shorted the wiring when Replacing the Pump. Radiator fan most likely is the Thermostat! Sensor the Signals the Relay to Cycle the fan works only with the Thermostat Open and Coolant is Flowing. Good Radiator Shop if you're not sure how to Repair the System. Cooling Systems on the %26quot;NorStar Engines%26quot; are Good (In most cases Better) but Difficult to handle some times.
you have an air pocket in the system as bustass says,but do not remove the hose,just remove the cap l;et run to operating temp with the heat on and the fan speed on high,let run till cooling fans cycle you will see the system burp,also squeeze the upper radiator hose a couple of times while the cap is off.once all the air is out you can refill the coolant to the hot level,replace the cap and your good to go.
Make sure you got the right water pump
depending on the options for you car, the belt may route a different way which sometimes turns the water pump backwards!!!
Sound crazy but I've seen it before
Similar pumps may fit the engine but it's internal fins maybe wrong for your application
Yes
sounds like it, it is easier to change the thermostat, and see if that works than redoing the waterpump
Good Luck!
99 Subaru Legacy over heats! changed, thermostat, radiator, waterpump, no head gasket symptoms. what is wrong?
i was driving last week andthe hose that is connected to my radiator from the top snaped off. The part that you connect the hose to the radiator with cracked off. Anti-freeze sprayed ever where and i pulled over. I put a new radiator in and it still would over heat, so i changed the thermostat and it still over heats. The water pump is 7 months old. it wont over heat immediatly it takes driving a few miles. when i idle sitting still it wont over heat. Only when i rev the engine up it starts to over heat. Also my heat comes through the vents cold. I was low on oil ( i added one qt) no white or blue smoke from exhaust, no water in oil, no oil in anti freeze, my fans are running fine. what could cause this?
99 Subaru Legacy over heats! changed, thermostat, radiator, waterpump, no head gasket symptoms. what is wrong?
It sounds like you have a blockage or that the heat transfer surfaces within the block are fouled. I don't know if you have the means but it sounds like you may need to pull the engine so you can get a better look at the heat transfer surfaces and to visually inspect the cooling channels both within the engine block and heater core. As a Scoobie lover, I feel your pain and wish you the best.
99 Subaru Legacy over heats! changed, thermostat, radiator, waterpump, no head gasket symptoms. what is wrong?
sounds like you have air in your cooling system. is there a way to bleed the system? you may also have a blockage somewhere
This is going to sound odd but I went thru the same thing and it was my radiator cap.I spent alot of money I didnt need to because of a $5 part.
99 Subaru Legacy over heats! changed, thermostat, radiator, waterpump, no head gasket symptoms. what is wrong?
It sounds like you have a blockage or that the heat transfer surfaces within the block are fouled. I don't know if you have the means but it sounds like you may need to pull the engine so you can get a better look at the heat transfer surfaces and to visually inspect the cooling channels both within the engine block and heater core. As a Scoobie lover, I feel your pain and wish you the best.
99 Subaru Legacy over heats! changed, thermostat, radiator, waterpump, no head gasket symptoms. what is wrong?
sounds like you have air in your cooling system. is there a way to bleed the system? you may also have a blockage somewhere
This is going to sound odd but I went thru the same thing and it was my radiator cap.I spent alot of money I didnt need to because of a $5 part.
2000 Dodge Ram 1500 5.9 2wd. Water leak top of motor. Not top hose. What else could it be?
I have a 2000 Dodge Ram 1500 5.9 2wd. Driving down the street this morning steam started coming from under the hood. When I messed with the top radiator hose it changed the pitch of the air/steam noise. After pulling the top hose off I can not find a place where it may have had a hole. What other part could have gone bad that this may have caused?
2000 Dodge Ram 1500 5.9 2wd. Water leak top of motor. Not top hose. What else could it be?
check the water inlet on the radiator and the engine,both are plastic and both give problems from breaking or cracking,good luck.
2000 Dodge Ram 1500 5.9 2wd. Water leak top of motor. Not top hose. What else could it be?
water outlet on top of intake. chrysler regularly has problems with all their plastic cooling system parts
Could be the water pump bypass hose, or the thermostat gasket, i dont know what plastic hoses they are talkin about on the intake of a 5.9
2000 Dodge Ram 1500 5.9 2wd. Water leak top of motor. Not top hose. What else could it be?
check the water inlet on the radiator and the engine,both are plastic and both give problems from breaking or cracking,good luck.
2000 Dodge Ram 1500 5.9 2wd. Water leak top of motor. Not top hose. What else could it be?
water outlet on top of intake. chrysler regularly has problems with all their plastic cooling system parts
Could be the water pump bypass hose, or the thermostat gasket, i dont know what plastic hoses they are talkin about on the intake of a 5.9
Wrong coolant in Crossifre srt6. Mechanic flushed the system. Wants me to do it again and pay another $250??? ?
Got a pin hole in my upper radiator hose and was leaking coolant, by accident added the green stuff instead of the clear stuff. Took the car to chrysler who changed the hose and pointed out I had the wrong coolant. Paid $250 for a flush. Everything seems to be working but he wants me to flush again. Should I???
Wrong coolant in Crossifre srt6. Mechanic flushed the system. Wants me to do it again and pay another $250??? ?
IS the car under warrenty? IF it is thats why he wants to do a second flush to makes sure there is no contamination left. You sure you didn't use the newer type coolant that is suppose to be compatable with all cars? That one is green too and he may have just assumed you used the wrong thing. Take a good look at the container if you have it. If it says mixes with all types take it to him and show him.
Some people are saying its not good to use that type of coolant but I have been with no problems at all.
Wrong coolant in Crossifre srt6. Mechanic flushed the system. Wants me to do it again and pay another $250??? ?
WOW - $250!!! I would ask a auto parts store which coolant is recommended. Buy it, and drain and fill again yourself. The auto parts guy can also show you on his computer where the radiator drain is. You can do this yourself for about $40. Better than having $500 into it.
Not unless they're doing the 2nd flush for free...
If they already properly %26quot;flushed it%26quot; once, why would there be any need to do it again? Your radiator was either flushed out entirely the first time or it wasn't flushed properly. If it WASN'T done properly the first time, then the shop didn't do it's job and should re-do the flush for free if they say it needs to be done again.
Like others have said $250 for a radiator flush is mighty steep. Next time I'd probably go somewhere else for service (even a different Chrysler dealer if you want a dealership doing all the maintenance) if your current dealership is charging that much just to flush a radiator.
if you paided to have the system flushed then it should be ok if he wants to do it again then he apparently didn't flush it completely he should do for free if he don't i think you ll be fine
you got took big time read the bottle,they are all interchangeable,you are ok but never go to a dealer except for warranty work,they will steal your money.
tell him to shove it! you can use any type of coolant..dont do it. its not going to do anything tell him to stop charging you for **** you dont need thats bull..you need to find a different mechanic
All makes, all models green coolant isn't gonna do jack to your car. They just like charging you for crap you don't really need.
Plus, a cooling system flush isn't worth $250 in any world. Honestly, it should be just fine.
A cooling system to work correctly needs to be sealed, no leaks, no air, and have the correct coolant, which can be all makes, all models prestone or peak coolant.
that's more than a new radiator costs its expensive at dealer remember that
its better to buy radiator at whole sale lot auto fit certi fit ie.
then take it to mechanic if you cant do it yourself
Wrong coolant in Crossifre srt6. Mechanic flushed the system. Wants me to do it again and pay another $250??? ?
IS the car under warrenty? IF it is thats why he wants to do a second flush to makes sure there is no contamination left. You sure you didn't use the newer type coolant that is suppose to be compatable with all cars? That one is green too and he may have just assumed you used the wrong thing. Take a good look at the container if you have it. If it says mixes with all types take it to him and show him.
Some people are saying its not good to use that type of coolant but I have been with no problems at all.
Wrong coolant in Crossifre srt6. Mechanic flushed the system. Wants me to do it again and pay another $250??? ?
WOW - $250!!! I would ask a auto parts store which coolant is recommended. Buy it, and drain and fill again yourself. The auto parts guy can also show you on his computer where the radiator drain is. You can do this yourself for about $40. Better than having $500 into it.
Not unless they're doing the 2nd flush for free...
If they already properly %26quot;flushed it%26quot; once, why would there be any need to do it again? Your radiator was either flushed out entirely the first time or it wasn't flushed properly. If it WASN'T done properly the first time, then the shop didn't do it's job and should re-do the flush for free if they say it needs to be done again.
Like others have said $250 for a radiator flush is mighty steep. Next time I'd probably go somewhere else for service (even a different Chrysler dealer if you want a dealership doing all the maintenance) if your current dealership is charging that much just to flush a radiator.
if you paided to have the system flushed then it should be ok if he wants to do it again then he apparently didn't flush it completely he should do for free if he don't i think you ll be fine
you got took big time read the bottle,they are all interchangeable,you are ok but never go to a dealer except for warranty work,they will steal your money.
tell him to shove it! you can use any type of coolant..dont do it. its not going to do anything tell him to stop charging you for **** you dont need thats bull..you need to find a different mechanic
All makes, all models green coolant isn't gonna do jack to your car. They just like charging you for crap you don't really need.
Plus, a cooling system flush isn't worth $250 in any world. Honestly, it should be just fine.
A cooling system to work correctly needs to be sealed, no leaks, no air, and have the correct coolant, which can be all makes, all models prestone or peak coolant.
that's more than a new radiator costs its expensive at dealer remember that
its better to buy radiator at whole sale lot auto fit certi fit ie.
then take it to mechanic if you cant do it yourself
Do i need to mix the oil with any coolant when changing the oil in my Honda 400ex?
a hose runs from the oil resevore to the radiator. do i need to mix the oil with anything?
Do i need to mix the oil with any coolant when changing the oil in my Honda 400ex?
Oil and water do not mix..... The hose is taking the oil to the radiator to cool it, It's called an oil cooler. The coolant should have a separate radiator.
Do i need to mix the oil with any coolant when changing the oil in my Honda 400ex?
No, the oil cooler is seperated internally from the antifreeze coolant curcuit in the radiator. Kind of a 2 in 1 deal.
is this a car? wait it doesnt make a difference, unless this is a 2 stroke engine which it definetly isn't , you do not mix oil with anything for an engine, ever.
Do i need to mix the oil with any coolant when changing the oil in my Honda 400ex?
Oil and water do not mix..... The hose is taking the oil to the radiator to cool it, It's called an oil cooler. The coolant should have a separate radiator.
Do i need to mix the oil with any coolant when changing the oil in my Honda 400ex?
No, the oil cooler is seperated internally from the antifreeze coolant curcuit in the radiator. Kind of a 2 in 1 deal.
is this a car? wait it doesnt make a difference, unless this is a 2 stroke engine which it definetly isn't , you do not mix oil with anything for an engine, ever.
What is the right way to change radiator coolant?
I drive a very old Mitsubishi Lancer. What are the right step to change the coolant? Should the engine be warmed up etc...
I need to know because the last time I changed the coolant myself, I did not know there was a drain plug under the radiator. So I unscrewed the top hose and let it out.
Few days later my water pump failed. I dont know if it failed because of what i did or not. (I've located the drain plug since then)
Coolant is due for change now and I hope the same problem does not occur again.
What is the right way to change radiator coolant?
I would make sure the car was cool before doing this. Hot coolant can easily scald you when being changed. Place a large container (large enough to hold on the coolant) under the drain plug. Open the drain plug and allow the coolant to drain out. Once the old coolant has drained entirely it might be a good idea to flush the system with distilled water. This isn't absolutely necessary, but its not a terrible idea. Once everything is sufficiently drained, close the drain plug, and begin to refill the system. Refill the radiator first until it is full, and then put some fluid into the coolant reservoir. Allow the engine to run for a brief time, then recheck the fluid in the radiator. More will probably need to be added. Repeat this process until the radiator remains topped off after being run. Be sure to check the reservoir as well to make sure it maintains enough coolant.
What is the right way to change radiator coolant?
Unscrew the bottom outlet hose on the radiator, or use the drain plug. Many radiators dont have a drain plug, so most people (myself included) just pull the hose.
Your water pump probably failed because the new coolant cleaned out all the junk that was holding the pump together, or the flush dislodged some junk from somewhere else in the engine and it got stuck in the water pump.
I seriously doubt that the water pump will fail twice in a row. Failing to flush the coolant on a regular basis has much more serious consequences, like a blown head gasket. Having a well-functioning coolant system also keeps NOx emissions down, since the engine doesn't get hot enough to create them.
you remove plug from bottom of radiator or bottom hose catch what you can casue its poison to pets and people ... you drain it either by letting it run with motor on or off best off but you can push out more old if you want with motor running a bit just dont let it over heat faster to remove bottom hose but more mess.. dont have to be warm and better if not since your hands will be in it some what
the water pump failure was coincidence. put a pan under the drain plug and let the antifreeze run out. refill it with green mixed 50/50 with water. warm the engine up until the thermostat opens and recheck the level in the overflow tank. some engines have a bleed screw you can loosen to let the trapped air out.
There is really no need to change it. If you must, just open the drain, with radiator cap off and when it's drained close valve and refill. Do not run the engine until coolant is replaced or it will damage water pump.
yes drain off water from radiator drain when its hot that will allow it to come from the engine as the thermostat will be open.then fill with required amount of A/F then fill with water .run for IO minutes then check again.
good luck h
The right way to change coolant is with a cooling system flush machine. Most shops can do the complete service for between 49-100 dollars depending where you live.How do i make a quilt software
I need to know because the last time I changed the coolant myself, I did not know there was a drain plug under the radiator. So I unscrewed the top hose and let it out.
Few days later my water pump failed. I dont know if it failed because of what i did or not. (I've located the drain plug since then)
Coolant is due for change now and I hope the same problem does not occur again.
What is the right way to change radiator coolant?
I would make sure the car was cool before doing this. Hot coolant can easily scald you when being changed. Place a large container (large enough to hold on the coolant) under the drain plug. Open the drain plug and allow the coolant to drain out. Once the old coolant has drained entirely it might be a good idea to flush the system with distilled water. This isn't absolutely necessary, but its not a terrible idea. Once everything is sufficiently drained, close the drain plug, and begin to refill the system. Refill the radiator first until it is full, and then put some fluid into the coolant reservoir. Allow the engine to run for a brief time, then recheck the fluid in the radiator. More will probably need to be added. Repeat this process until the radiator remains topped off after being run. Be sure to check the reservoir as well to make sure it maintains enough coolant.
What is the right way to change radiator coolant?
Unscrew the bottom outlet hose on the radiator, or use the drain plug. Many radiators dont have a drain plug, so most people (myself included) just pull the hose.
Your water pump probably failed because the new coolant cleaned out all the junk that was holding the pump together, or the flush dislodged some junk from somewhere else in the engine and it got stuck in the water pump.
I seriously doubt that the water pump will fail twice in a row. Failing to flush the coolant on a regular basis has much more serious consequences, like a blown head gasket. Having a well-functioning coolant system also keeps NOx emissions down, since the engine doesn't get hot enough to create them.
you remove plug from bottom of radiator or bottom hose catch what you can casue its poison to pets and people ... you drain it either by letting it run with motor on or off best off but you can push out more old if you want with motor running a bit just dont let it over heat faster to remove bottom hose but more mess.. dont have to be warm and better if not since your hands will be in it some what
the water pump failure was coincidence. put a pan under the drain plug and let the antifreeze run out. refill it with green mixed 50/50 with water. warm the engine up until the thermostat opens and recheck the level in the overflow tank. some engines have a bleed screw you can loosen to let the trapped air out.
There is really no need to change it. If you must, just open the drain, with radiator cap off and when it's drained close valve and refill. Do not run the engine until coolant is replaced or it will damage water pump.
yes drain off water from radiator drain when its hot that will allow it to come from the engine as the thermostat will be open.then fill with required amount of A/F then fill with water .run for IO minutes then check again.
good luck h
The right way to change coolant is with a cooling system flush machine. Most shops can do the complete service for between 49-100 dollars depending where you live.
What's wrong with my '90 Olds Cutlass?
I can't figure out what's wrong with it. We've flushed the engine block, changed the radiator which was in bad shape, changed the radiator hose, changed the thermostat, changed the water pump. When the car runs about 5 miles, it starts shaking and jerking pretty bad and then stalls out. It starts back up and idles fine then but when you go to throw it into any gear it shuts back down again. I thought it might be the transmission but I'm not sure? It's a 1990 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera with a 4 cylinder engine.70,000 original miles on it and was sitting outside for a while before I bought it. Anyone know what this could be and how I could fix it?
What's wrong with my '90 Olds Cutlass?
You may have a fuel delivery problem. Change the fuel filter. You didn't say if it was overheating.
What's wrong with my '90 Olds Cutlass?
Could be hundreds of things, none of which can be properly diagnosed over the internet for free. I would take it to a reputable shop and pay the one hours diag fee so a professional can run numerous tests and isolate the problem(s). Otherwise you will just be switching parts out hoping for an inexpensive fix and not accomplishing anything. Could be anything from a clogged filter, low fuel pressure, bad transmission, tune up, numerous sensors, low compression, bad engine,catalytic converter, loss of ignition, bad computer, electrical problem etc....
What's wrong with my '90 Olds Cutlass?
You may have a fuel delivery problem. Change the fuel filter. You didn't say if it was overheating.
What's wrong with my '90 Olds Cutlass?
Could be hundreds of things, none of which can be properly diagnosed over the internet for free. I would take it to a reputable shop and pay the one hours diag fee so a professional can run numerous tests and isolate the problem(s). Otherwise you will just be switching parts out hoping for an inexpensive fix and not accomplishing anything. Could be anything from a clogged filter, low fuel pressure, bad transmission, tune up, numerous sensors, low compression, bad engine,catalytic converter, loss of ignition, bad computer, electrical problem etc....
Flexible radiator hose?
I just installed a napa (upper) flexible radiator hose on my 1995 toyota pickup (NOT tacoma).
Because this hose is flexible, it gives me the impression that it is a little %26quot;flimsy%26quot;, and makes me a little nervous.
Is this a good, or bad choice for a %26quot;bone stock%26quot; daily driver? Is this type (flexible) only meant for race applications?
The reason I went with a flexible radiator hose, is because with the rigid hose, when I rev my engine, the hose pulls on the radiator, causing (over a few months) the seem around the upper inlet (on the radiator)to separate.Because of this, I have gone through three (warrantied-THANK GOD!!) radiators.I also went with a radiator that recognizes this (what I call a design flaw) in the radiator, and therefore reinforced the seem around the upper inlet.
I have read/been told that the radiator seem separating is a common issue with toyota pick ups.
I have changed out both my motor mounts, and my transmission mount.
Should I go back with the %26quot;rigid%26quot; radiato
Flexible radiator hose?
you can go back 2 a ridgid hose if u want,to be honest the only thing you can do is get a hose,ridgid or flexible,with a thick wall,beef up ur mountings because this sounds like a toyota design problem,hope it helps
Flexible radiator hose?
that one should be fine,you shouldn't have any problems from that one,id try it and see if it lasted,by changing the mounts you probably cured the problem of it popping hoses,but it should be fine now,those hoses work and last as good as the others do,good luck with it.
Heck no leave the flex hose on. You've already gone through a ton of radiators be sure you have a genuine new Toyota radiator pressure cap in case excess pressure is splitting the radiators. I'd be really skeptical of any motor rocking an excess amount when you goose the throttle. Make sure the motor mount rubber is at least as hard as new stock Toyota mounts.
Because this hose is flexible, it gives me the impression that it is a little %26quot;flimsy%26quot;, and makes me a little nervous.
Is this a good, or bad choice for a %26quot;bone stock%26quot; daily driver? Is this type (flexible) only meant for race applications?
The reason I went with a flexible radiator hose, is because with the rigid hose, when I rev my engine, the hose pulls on the radiator, causing (over a few months) the seem around the upper inlet (on the radiator)to separate.Because of this, I have gone through three (warrantied-THANK GOD!!) radiators.I also went with a radiator that recognizes this (what I call a design flaw) in the radiator, and therefore reinforced the seem around the upper inlet.
I have read/been told that the radiator seem separating is a common issue with toyota pick ups.
I have changed out both my motor mounts, and my transmission mount.
Should I go back with the %26quot;rigid%26quot; radiato
Flexible radiator hose?
you can go back 2 a ridgid hose if u want,to be honest the only thing you can do is get a hose,ridgid or flexible,with a thick wall,beef up ur mountings because this sounds like a toyota design problem,hope it helps
Flexible radiator hose?
that one should be fine,you shouldn't have any problems from that one,id try it and see if it lasted,by changing the mounts you probably cured the problem of it popping hoses,but it should be fine now,those hoses work and last as good as the others do,good luck with it.
Heck no leave the flex hose on. You've already gone through a ton of radiators be sure you have a genuine new Toyota radiator pressure cap in case excess pressure is splitting the radiators. I'd be really skeptical of any motor rocking an excess amount when you goose the throttle. Make sure the motor mount rubber is at least as hard as new stock Toyota mounts.
Did I break my Car????????
I need some help !!!!!!! I bought an 89 Buick Century in January, It was just supposed to be a car that I could use to go to work and take my kids to do what they need to do....I replaced the alternator and the battery last month, and besides changing a radiator hose-we have kept the fluids checked, and it has been a pretty good car. Three days ago, I had some errands to run on payday and when I got in the car, it was fine. After a couple stops, I was actually at work picking up my check and my car would turn over but wouldnt start. I calle dmy boyfriend and he came up there and told me that i was out of gas-My gas gage said I was in between a quarter tank and empty but when I tried to tell him that he said, over and over again that I was out of gas. I went to the station, got gas and put a gallon in--my gas hand went up to a quarter tank and it still would not start. Then my boyfriend said that it was either flooded or I now needed a jump because by me trying to start it while it was out of gas-, I wore the battery out (the battery is only a month old-bought it brand new) . So he tried with 2 different people to jump it-nw when oyu turn the key it clicks twice and then nothing. In a last stitch effort, my boyfriend and our neighbor went to look at the car and still no result trying to jump. They tried to knock on the starter, and then when that had no result. Then, they took the cover of my sir filter off and gas began running out the side and it sounded like the fuel pump was pumping but the car was off. Gas went EVERYWHERE, so my neighbor unhooked the battery and we had it towed the next morning and today the mechanic told me the my engine was locked up. I need to know if my boyfriend is right in saying that I locked it up by being low on gas....THIS IS DRIVING ME CRAZY!! PLEASE HELP!!!!
Did I break my Car????????
You might just need a fuel pump. It happened to me last week. My car would not turn over. It can't be your battery because it started. If it was your battery, it would not even start. Just get your fuel pump checked as well as your fuel filter.
Did I break my Car????????
Get car fixed replace BF%26gt;
locked up in what way...?? fuel lock up? maybe
you can't lock up an engine when it is out of gas
Car wouldent have locked up because it was low on gass and if it only clicks twice when you try to start it make sure the battery terminals are on tight because my car did that and it was because the terminals were banged up so make sure there tight. If your motor is locked up then there is no fixing it but if its just not starting then check the battery connections.
the engine most likely %26quot;vapor locked%26quot; which does happen on 80's cars, it has happened to me on my 81 olds omega, so it is likely that that happened due to running low on gas, when you do get it repaired, have your mechanic look at the fuel gauge and possibly the float in the tank, it sounds like that there is a problem with the resistor for the fuel gauge. Check the voltage in the battery, and if its around 12 volts, try to start the car, and if it just clicks and nothing happens, you will need a new starter. is it possible to get the engine that is in the car, whether it is a v6 or a 4-cyl, if it is the 4-cyl, i can give detailed instructions on how to remove the starter then reinstall the new one.
1st, you didnt ruin your car. the fuel system is pressurized, whenever you open it up, its gonna spurt gas like it did...
you need to check things. you need air, fuel, spark to make it run
you need to charge the battery. once its charged, you can try to turn it over, just give it one or two tries, if it does Nothing, youre gonna need to see if its getting fuel. im pretty sure your fuel injected, you can see if you get fuel to the fuel bar...on that thought, check all of your fuses
you can have a clogged fuel filter...a bad fuel pump. or, a broken timing chain. all of these items can be fixed.
the way it stopped suddenly, my shot in the dark is the timing chain broke. how many miles do you got? this happened to me in an 87 buick skylark, v6...
good luck to you....it shouldnt be horrible to fix.
Was your engine oil filled?? Does your mechanic mean %26quot; Ceased %26quot; You cant lock up a motor by just being low on fuel. It sounds like to me theres more to the story than you know.
I would say the starter is locked up rather than the engine. Ask the mechanic to validate his findings. How did he conclude that it is the engine and not the starter.If the engine is locked up, there would be no way to turn the engine by putting a socket and ratchet on the harmonic balancer bolt and turn it. If it can be turned, the engine is not locked up.
The lock up is caused by cranking on the starter for so long, the solenoid is stuck. Meaning the starter gear is still engaged in the flywheel. Try turning the engine backward by grasping the harmonic balance %26amp; turning to the left.
Then recharge the battery
Once the starter is freed then check for spark. Remove a plug wire %26amp; insert a screwdriver. Hold the screwdriver a 录%26quot; from a good ground. Try starting the engine. The spark should snap between the gap. if OK then check for fuel (you've indicated there is lots of fuel) If no spark, then remove the cap %26amp; investigate. May need a tune up.
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I have a 1990 GMC pickup truck that was doing the same thing. The starter would turn but the truck wouldn't start. At first we thought it was water in the fuel line but it turned out that the distributor had gone out of it. Not to be confused with the distributor cap, the distributor connects into gears and strikes the inside of the cap at the precise time to send the power to the spark plugs. I tested this by pulling out one of the spark plugs and reattaching it to the spark plug cable that was hooked to it. Next, you hold the plug up and see if it is sparking while someone tries to turn the car over. If it does not spark then the problem is either with the distributor cap or with the distributor Pull off the cap and clean the metal contacts, which can become corroded over time. Put the cap back on and try to start it. If that does not work then you may need to replace your distributor the electrical relay. Best of luck.
before you give yourself a heart attack over this running low on fuel does not lock up the engine running it without oil / water does lock up the engine......and i would humor myself if i were you by bringing the starter to autozone to be tested ....before you pronounce your vehicle dead....
if you want to learn about vehicles check out autozone.com for your online repair manual you can learn alot from the experience and tell the b/f he needs a refresher course in car repair instead of trying to scare you .....you have those babes to worry about .instead of the vehicle
Your car is hydrolocked too much fuel in the cylinders and it won't compress like fuel and air the mechanics will remove the spark plugs an blow the fuel out but they need to figure out what caused that much fuel to get into the cylinders and why the fuel pump continues to run without the vehicle being turned on
You're boyfriend doesn't know what he's talking about. You just need a mechanic. I know you don't want to spend the money, but sometimes, cars cost money.
Did I break my Car????????
You might just need a fuel pump. It happened to me last week. My car would not turn over. It can't be your battery because it started. If it was your battery, it would not even start. Just get your fuel pump checked as well as your fuel filter.
Did I break my Car????????
Get car fixed replace BF%26gt;
locked up in what way...?? fuel lock up? maybe
you can't lock up an engine when it is out of gas
Car wouldent have locked up because it was low on gass and if it only clicks twice when you try to start it make sure the battery terminals are on tight because my car did that and it was because the terminals were banged up so make sure there tight. If your motor is locked up then there is no fixing it but if its just not starting then check the battery connections.
the engine most likely %26quot;vapor locked%26quot; which does happen on 80's cars, it has happened to me on my 81 olds omega, so it is likely that that happened due to running low on gas, when you do get it repaired, have your mechanic look at the fuel gauge and possibly the float in the tank, it sounds like that there is a problem with the resistor for the fuel gauge. Check the voltage in the battery, and if its around 12 volts, try to start the car, and if it just clicks and nothing happens, you will need a new starter. is it possible to get the engine that is in the car, whether it is a v6 or a 4-cyl, if it is the 4-cyl, i can give detailed instructions on how to remove the starter then reinstall the new one.
1st, you didnt ruin your car. the fuel system is pressurized, whenever you open it up, its gonna spurt gas like it did...
you need to check things. you need air, fuel, spark to make it run
you need to charge the battery. once its charged, you can try to turn it over, just give it one or two tries, if it does Nothing, youre gonna need to see if its getting fuel. im pretty sure your fuel injected, you can see if you get fuel to the fuel bar...on that thought, check all of your fuses
you can have a clogged fuel filter...a bad fuel pump. or, a broken timing chain. all of these items can be fixed.
the way it stopped suddenly, my shot in the dark is the timing chain broke. how many miles do you got? this happened to me in an 87 buick skylark, v6...
good luck to you....it shouldnt be horrible to fix.
Was your engine oil filled?? Does your mechanic mean %26quot; Ceased %26quot; You cant lock up a motor by just being low on fuel. It sounds like to me theres more to the story than you know.
I would say the starter is locked up rather than the engine. Ask the mechanic to validate his findings. How did he conclude that it is the engine and not the starter.If the engine is locked up, there would be no way to turn the engine by putting a socket and ratchet on the harmonic balancer bolt and turn it. If it can be turned, the engine is not locked up.
The lock up is caused by cranking on the starter for so long, the solenoid is stuck. Meaning the starter gear is still engaged in the flywheel. Try turning the engine backward by grasping the harmonic balance %26amp; turning to the left.
Then recharge the battery
Once the starter is freed then check for spark. Remove a plug wire %26amp; insert a screwdriver. Hold the screwdriver a 录%26quot; from a good ground. Try starting the engine. The spark should snap between the gap. if OK then check for fuel (you've indicated there is lots of fuel) If no spark, then remove the cap %26amp; investigate. May need a tune up.
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I have a 1990 GMC pickup truck that was doing the same thing. The starter would turn but the truck wouldn't start. At first we thought it was water in the fuel line but it turned out that the distributor had gone out of it. Not to be confused with the distributor cap, the distributor connects into gears and strikes the inside of the cap at the precise time to send the power to the spark plugs. I tested this by pulling out one of the spark plugs and reattaching it to the spark plug cable that was hooked to it. Next, you hold the plug up and see if it is sparking while someone tries to turn the car over. If it does not spark then the problem is either with the distributor cap or with the distributor Pull off the cap and clean the metal contacts, which can become corroded over time. Put the cap back on and try to start it. If that does not work then you may need to replace your distributor the electrical relay. Best of luck.
before you give yourself a heart attack over this running low on fuel does not lock up the engine running it without oil / water does lock up the engine......and i would humor myself if i were you by bringing the starter to autozone to be tested ....before you pronounce your vehicle dead....
if you want to learn about vehicles check out autozone.com for your online repair manual you can learn alot from the experience and tell the b/f he needs a refresher course in car repair instead of trying to scare you .....you have those babes to worry about .instead of the vehicle
Your car is hydrolocked too much fuel in the cylinders and it won't compress like fuel and air the mechanics will remove the spark plugs an blow the fuel out but they need to figure out what caused that much fuel to get into the cylinders and why the fuel pump continues to run without the vehicle being turned on
You're boyfriend doesn't know what he's talking about. You just need a mechanic. I know you don't want to spend the money, but sometimes, cars cost money.
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