Where could a 2000 Jeep Wrangler Sport 4.0L be leaking from?

Jeep Wrangler runs hot and leaks again. Everything has been changed, the radiator, water pump, fan clutch, hoses, and the engine flushed and cleaned. No water in oil and no smoke in the exhaust, so it's not the head. Can not find the leak. The pressure tests shows nothing. I add about a cup of water a day to the radiator. It is not running hot any longer, because I keep the radiator filled with water. Where is the leak?%26quot;
Where could a 2000 Jeep Wrangler Sport 4.0L be leaking from?
Have you tried a new radiator cap? Try blocking off the heater hoses and see if it goes away. A cup a day is a very small leak. If eliminating the heater and hoses and radiator cap doesn't do it, I'd suspect a very small head gasket leak. Something that small may not be detectable in the exhaust.
Where could a 2000 Jeep Wrangler Sport 4.0L be leaking from?
I can give you a couple of suggestions;

Pressure test the cap. Sometimes this item gets overlooked and the cap is releasing the coolant in the form of steam.

Also the water pump seal could be going bad and only leaking when the pressure is high and escaping under the car while driving.

Also pressure test the entire cooling system hot and cold to see if you have an internal leak.

In Answer to Question on Oil Weight?

The reason I know it was 10w30 was because it was on receipt. I had asked them to use High Mileage 50W because that is what I have used for two years now. And I am very good about getting the oil changed withing the time limit suggested. I have always taken very good care of my car. It is a 1992 Mercury GM and has been in excellent condition with only 121,000 miles. I know that is a lot of mileage, but not for that old of a car. Anyway, I told the car repair shop exactly what it was doing, shouldn't they have been able to tell it was something other than a radiator hose ? And would going from a high mileage 50W oil to a 10W30 oil cause it to overheat ?
In Answer to Question on Oil Weight?
actually using thicker oil than whats called for by your owners manual is killing your engine.I'm surprised you haven't replaced an oil pump yet,or you simply omitted to mention that. the oil helps a little bit in cooling but its primary job is lubrication.if the hose has developed a leak or is getting old it will drip fluid out of the cooling system,and will cause your car to overheat.how old are the hoses? if their original,the hoses may be doing whats called %26quot;sweating%26quot; and losing the coolant through evaporation,which would leave no sign of dripping,but would still lower the coolant level,and the cooling systems effectiveness.
In Answer to Question on Oil Weight?
the engine use the oil not only for lubrication but, also for cooling purposes



the oil pump force the oil through the gallery in the engine.with pressure and Speed. (the thicker the oil ,the higher the pressure and lower the speed)

high viscosity oil is producing(by not removing it) more heat

because, the oil gallery restrict the oil speed and also modern engine depend a lot in oil speed.

when the speed of the oil in the engine gallery is too slow then hot spots form in the engine sub secuently warpage might overcome and burned oil (might turn rock) start clogging the gallery.

unfortunated,the clogging always start forming in the most need it areas of lubrication.
1992 Mercury GM? No doubt your car was designed to run on either 5W30 or 10W30. Who told you to run 50W oil? 121000 miles isnt high mileage if you take care of it but running 50W oil isnt helping it any. If its over heating it is probably caused by something else like maybe a stuck thermostat.
your question starts out oil and ends up overheating. YOU NOW NEED TO GET GOOD MECHANICAL HELP. Switching from 20/50 oil to 10/30 oil will not cause overheating. Might make more motor noise on start up. Get the thermostat and radator tested. then procede to more expensive things. Some of the Ford engines have plastic intake manifolds that crack around where the thermostat and top hose hooks up. Good luck %26quot;CARNAK SEES NEW CAR IN YOUR FUTURE%26quot;
no it wouldn't make it over heat. summer time you run a heavier oil weight because the heat will break the viscosity of the oil and damage your engine. winter time you use a lighter weight oil because it will make it a lot harder on the battery and starter turning the engine over to start.

Chevrolet Lumina 1996: Why Low Coolant light stays on?

The Low Coolant light stays on althought I've already checked/re-filled the coolant tank and everything is working fine. The radiator is full and the hoses were recently changed, and the car has 184,000 miles but still runs great. Does anybody knows what's going on???
Chevrolet Lumina 1996: Why Low Coolant light stays on?
you have a piece of dirt in the coolant level sensor causing it to stick in the on position, it's located in your plastic overflow tank and all you have to do is get a rubber hammer and smack the side of the plastic tank a couple of times and this usually dislodges the dirt from the sensor.

I've been told that i need a new timer, do I? and misfire in 1 that isn't constant, what do you think/

I have a 2000 Plymouth Neon 3 speed Automatic 2.0 whatever, and the fan almost never stops, when it does, it's for 10 seconds and starts up again. The air condition is great, but it sweats like crazy, I can see puddles accumulate under the car when it sits. I just changed the upper radiator hose and the car's running nice, like it got more power, the old hose was almost twice the size of the new one, the old one finally burst. Now there's a slight hissing out of the engine over by the belts where the hose busted. The Timing belt busted about 7 months ago and the mechanic says that one of the piston rings won't work right, nut that the car'll run. The check engine lights on and I checked it, misfire on one. It goes away and comes back sporadically. I've tried high octane gas, low ocatne, 5-30, 10-40 and 20-50 oil, synthetic, blend and regular, injector cleaners, but nothing keeps it from coming back. The longest the light stayed off was when I changed the plugs.
I've been told that i need a new timer, do I? and misfire in 1 that isn't constant, what do you think/
Use a ohm meter to check your sparkplug wire, or us a spark tester between the wire and plug. Sounds like bad wire or coil.

Will this hold untill I can repair it?

My car was leaking antifreeze and I changed the lower radiator hose because thats where it seemed to be coming from. After driving with the new hose the problem was still there. I came to find out that its the plastic lower radiator hose housing that has a hole in it. It seems to have only two small bolts that hold it on the block. I was thinking since I dont have the time right now to go find the part if I should remove it and try to just put gasket sealant inside to cover the hole or maybe some JB weld or something like that. Will it hold? is it safe and a good idea?
Will this hold untill I can repair it?
Plastic parts are very hard to patch/glue, save yourself the hassle and just buy a new part. You say you don't have time to find the part, do you have time to be broke down on the side of the road because you tried to do a cheap fix?
Will this hold untill I can repair it?
J.B. Weld may work if the area is clan and dry and you let it sit for 24 hours to dry before putting antifreeze back in.



The best bet would be just to find a new radiator at a junk yard.
to risky you could bust your motor , wait till you have the time to make a proper repair
a leak will only get worse.
Try a waterproof epoxy, quick dry

J-B weld takes 24 hours to cure
I am not sure where the problem is, sounds like a lower water neck type of thing, or part of the water pump.

Any way, I would be tempted to get a self drilling screw to run into it with a washer and sealer on it. I am not sure it would work due to the location and shape of the parts.

Just a patch of rubber with string wrapped around it might work too if bound tight.
If you wait longer. You risk overheating the engine then you will need those parts plus another engine and maybe a transmission. Fix it or leave the car at home %26amp; take the bus or get a ride.

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What is wrong with this car?

1996 mazda 626 lx automatic ok coming home from work it started acting like it wanted to die then the heat hand went to hot hot then it really started to die i pulled over opened the hood steaming of course then it quit the upper radiator hose was busted that is ok but the alternator bracket also broke why did it break and there is a belt also that was missing the one from the engine to alternator i think what is it called also if ya can help why did the bracket break and which belt is it also i just changed the lower radiator hose 2 weeks ago why is the hose busting for it is just a work car but it has been a good one does not want to get rid of it thanks in advance
What is wrong with this car?
i am sure the belt broke the alternator bracket. i don't know if your car has a separate belt for your alternator or not...the parts store can tell you that.
What is wrong with this car?
thermostat was stuck closed and could not handle the pressure
ok here's what may have happened,the alternator bracket broke(they just do that sometimes) taking out all the belts including the one that runs your water pump,when the pump quit working the car got hot very quickly and blew the hose,as far as your hose issues often when you fix one leak in an older cooling system it will seek out the next weakest spot to blow out,I would check to make sure you didn't blow the head gasket before you put too much money in this car
Alisha

The name of the part you are asking is called the alternator bracket and its designed to hold the alternator in place where it belongs.

In the old school cars the alternator is often held by two long bolts,the first one is the pivot bolt and the last one is the adjustment bolt which keeps the belt tension at the spot where its supposed to be to keep it tight.

Your car also needs this bracket to keep the belt tension constant,and while you are at it you would be better off having it towed to a reputable shop and ask them to repair everything that is broken and any missing parts that need to be replaced,don't forget the alternator bracket and tell them to order that part.

GOOD LUCK
sounds like the alt bracket broke and that caused the belt for fan to stop and made it overheat.
sounds like you have a canooter valve problem
bracket broke and caused the rest of the problems/should have changed all the hoses/make sure you change t/stat and probably w/pump/those w/pumps separate when they are o/heated

Broken radiator part question?

i got a 95 suburban, my hubby was trying to change the oil and when he was reaching for the oil filter, he broke the part that you hook the hose to the radiator to. the part that sticks out from it. the part is plastic, and he tryed to use some kind of glue you mix then let it set for 30 min, then put it on what you want to glue. i was wondering if i will have to get a new radiator, or if it is a part i can buy to replace it with out having to buy a new radiator?
Broken radiator part question?
got to a junk yard and get a used one they are about 40 bucks
Broken radiator part question?
Due to the temperature extremes on these radiators,

the only real remedy is to get a different radiator.

There is just no glue you can use to repair a broken

neck as they just won't hold for long.



Other than a new one you might be able to find one

at a salvage yard. Those places have the interchange

books to know what other vehicles, and what years

would interchange with your model, so it adds to the

ability to find what you need.



There just isn't any special part that will repair, or

replace the broken piece other than a new top tank.

Some radiator shops can do that part, but the cost

would exceed what you would pay for a good one

from a salvage yard.
You'll need that side tank for your radiator or a complete radiator to fix it. Don't drive it as it is cause the cooling system has 15 psi %26amp; WILL leak from his patch.The good news is that a new radiator is less than $150.
from what you are describing it sounds like just the clamp on the hose. if thats it you can get a new, more durable, metal one at autozone for just a couple of dollars. if its just the clamp you should not have to replace the entire radiator. just go to autozone and buy a new one. should be a couple dollars and can be installed in just a couple of minutes