i just changed my radiator and put a brand new one in. but when i finished putting it back on. and put water in it . and tried to start it it just rived and then the main hose on top blew off. put it back on and tightened it and then the big hose on the bottom blew off. why is this happening. also the car did not start. it is a toyota camry 1992 thanks|||Have the car%26#039;s cooling system pressure tested. Sounds like a bad head gasket or cracked head.|||hose clamp not tight enough or replace with new one..... cheap fix|||sounds like the new radiator is blocked up take it back for exchange|||Hi sounds like you are building up pressure in the system this could be
a blown head gasket. Or it could be the garage did not take out
the plastic bungs out of the radiator.But with you saying it would
not start it sounds more like the gasket. I would take it back to
the garage that fitted the Rad.|||Sounds like there%26#039;s a blockage somewhere. Most cars pump the hot engine coolant into the bottom of the radiator, and the cooled water comes out the top and goes back into the engine. If it was always the lower hose that popped, then I%26#039;d say the radiator, but with both popping ........ Try this - Run the engine with the radiator cap off. If the system is flowing correctly, the coolant should NOT come out the open cap. If it does, then you%26#039;ve got a problem to find...
Friday, June 3, 2011
Why does my ac belt rub my lower radiator hose in my 1984 olds 98 5.0l 307?
I changed my upper and lower radiator hoses last week, and after my car ran hot, I found a pin hole in my lower hose from contact with the ac belt. When I look there is about 1/2 inch gap between the belt and hose. I was told that there is a part that can prtoect the hose from contact.|||All you need to do is loosen the hose clamps and twist the hose to obtain more clearance between the belt and the hose.. then tighten the clamps back ..|||Either you installed it wrong and need to twist the hose to a different position or you got the wrong hose no part of the belt should touch the hose regardless of a shield being installed or not.|||Incorrectly plumed or wrong hose. It should never touch. You can loosen them and twist them a little to relocate so it does not rub. Zip Ties will not last long enough in that environment (extreme heat and vibration) and it just looks like shoddy repair work to do so.|||you might have to tie the hose up out of the way of the belt|||First guy is right
use a zip tie to pull the hose out of the way
use a zip tie to pull the hose out of the way
My 2000 dodge intrepid is overheating and boiling even after?
i changed the radiator, hoses, oil cooler lines, transmission oil cooler, the car isnt getting really hot and it starts to boil over even in idle. my fans do kick on though. and my coolant is circulating from what i see.|||CHECK YOUR HEAD GASKET WHEN ITS BOILING BACK INTO RESOVOIR THATS MAYBE YOUR PROBLEM SOMETIMES A GASKET SEALER WILL WORK INSTEAD OF REPLACING THE HEAD GASKET TO SAVE $$$$$ FOR THIS GAS GUZZLER. TRY THAT.|||I would pressure check the cooling system to see if there are any leaks. Thermostat working?
Do I have to drain my radiator to change the upper hose or is there a way to do it without draining?
There should be a drain plug at the bottom of the radiator.
But if you have to change the top hos it is probably because of a leak (right?)
I would place a pan under the front of the truck then disconnect the upper hose (radiator side), let that drain into the pan, should not be too much. then remove the hose from the Thermostat side, replace it with the new one then add antifreeze to top off the radiator.
There will be some mess but it will be minimal.|||Yep! You%26#039;ll lose a little but not much. Do it when it%26#039;s all the way cooled down, overnight, Don%26#039;t even worry about the little bit that%26#039;s going to get on the engine.
Squeeze the lower hose and if it feels spongy, replace it.
I just thought of something. If you car is using screw clamps and they are leaking at the clamp try tightening it.|||you won,t need to drain it all out. just drain it down enough so it won,t spill out when you take the hose off.|||yes you have to drain the radiator or else you will spill coolant all over the place. but while it is empty, you might as well replace all the other cooling system hoses too because they%26#039;re likely to go out soon if one has already.|||let the car cool all the way down you might loose a little coolant but not much just be sure to re-add when install is done|||If it is the top hose you shouldn%26#039;t have a problem with water going everywhere especially if you let the car sit for 24 hours before doing the work. There will be some spillage but not much, get a drip pan for when you are doing the actual work. Of course the bottom hose is a different story, if you change that then you will have to drain the radiator.
But if you have to change the top hos it is probably because of a leak (right?)
I would place a pan under the front of the truck then disconnect the upper hose (radiator side), let that drain into the pan, should not be too much. then remove the hose from the Thermostat side, replace it with the new one then add antifreeze to top off the radiator.
There will be some mess but it will be minimal.|||Yep! You%26#039;ll lose a little but not much. Do it when it%26#039;s all the way cooled down, overnight, Don%26#039;t even worry about the little bit that%26#039;s going to get on the engine.
Squeeze the lower hose and if it feels spongy, replace it.
I just thought of something. If you car is using screw clamps and they are leaking at the clamp try tightening it.|||you won,t need to drain it all out. just drain it down enough so it won,t spill out when you take the hose off.|||yes you have to drain the radiator or else you will spill coolant all over the place. but while it is empty, you might as well replace all the other cooling system hoses too because they%26#039;re likely to go out soon if one has already.|||let the car cool all the way down you might loose a little coolant but not much just be sure to re-add when install is done|||If it is the top hose you shouldn%26#039;t have a problem with water going everywhere especially if you let the car sit for 24 hours before doing the work. There will be some spillage but not much, get a drip pan for when you are doing the actual work. Of course the bottom hose is a different story, if you change that then you will have to drain the radiator.
Do you think i should drain my antifreeze to change my upper radiator hose on my car?
Sure. It%26#039;s less messy because there should still be coolant in the upper hose.|||If it needs a coolant flush anyways yes, (50k or more on the antifreeze) if not just let the small amount from the upper hose drain into a bucket and put it back in when u are done.
NISSAN MASTER TECH'S (easy 10 pts.) 2000 Nissan Maxima SE radiator help?
I have a 2000 nissan maxima se(stock) that recently started leaking (small amounts dripping sporadically) coolant. The shops in my area want $500+ to replace it (parts %26amp; labor) %26amp; I have found a new replacement for $175. My question to the Nissan Master Tech%26#039;s out there; Would changing the radiator be a task that I can do myself (mechanical aptitude is average), or do you recommend I get it changed professionally? If so, where can I find step-by-step instructions (w/diagrams)? Also, Should I change all the radiator hoses/clamps as well?
John Paul if you%26#039;re on Y/A tonight your expertise would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance! One Love|||about as easy as tying your shoes you will look at top of radaitor when you open hood there wil be a cover might have four to six bolts remove it left side at bottom should be a drain plug open it and try to drain what you can if that dont work just remove bottom hose and top hose an dmight be two transmission lines remove them and you lift it out and set the new one back in replace everything same way should take about a good hour... fill it up and crank motor let run and refill til it stops taking water back it up some and look for any leaks your done works pretty much same way on every car made|||Changing a radiator is a simple task and really doesn%26#039;t require a lot of expertise. The fact that you purchased the raditator yourself will still save you tons of money even if you take to a shop. Go to your local autoparts store and purchase the repair manual for your car. Chilton%26#039;s manuals run about 25.00 and they have detailed pictured step by step instructions. Every owner should have one for there specific vehicle. If you have the time and patience, then do it yourself. Replacing the radiator shouldn%26#039;t take more the 2 to 3 hours max.
John Paul if you%26#039;re on Y/A tonight your expertise would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance! One Love|||about as easy as tying your shoes you will look at top of radaitor when you open hood there wil be a cover might have four to six bolts remove it left side at bottom should be a drain plug open it and try to drain what you can if that dont work just remove bottom hose and top hose an dmight be two transmission lines remove them and you lift it out and set the new one back in replace everything same way should take about a good hour... fill it up and crank motor let run and refill til it stops taking water back it up some and look for any leaks your done works pretty much same way on every car made|||Changing a radiator is a simple task and really doesn%26#039;t require a lot of expertise. The fact that you purchased the raditator yourself will still save you tons of money even if you take to a shop. Go to your local autoparts store and purchase the repair manual for your car. Chilton%26#039;s manuals run about 25.00 and they have detailed pictured step by step instructions. Every owner should have one for there specific vehicle. If you have the time and patience, then do it yourself. Replacing the radiator shouldn%26#039;t take more the 2 to 3 hours max.
My truck started smoking by one of the hoses next to the radiator?
The coolant is full, and the transmission fluid was recently flushed along with an oil change.|||The hose might be leaking, change it|||Try squeezing the hose, if it feels soft, replace it before it busts. if you drain the antifreeze out to replace it,Put in new antifreeze,(Because it%26#039;s not good to put what they call contaminated antifreeze back into an engine) Check to make sure that your clamps are tight enough. Good Luck. (And try not to get antifreeze on the paintjob,it might mess up your paint
My 97 Corolla's radiator fan does not start even when the engine is very hot?
I suspect that the themostat is faulty. Becuase it takes lengthy time for the engine to get warm enough as temp. gauge shows, so it maybe stuck open. Both radiator hoses become hot. But I am not sure if I change the t-stat the fan will work properly..?. the rely is fine as i checked.|||How much time does it take to warm up. If its anywhere from 3-5 mins I would think that%26#039;s normal. If the t-stat was stuck open, your car would take a long time to warm up but it would never get hot especially in cold weather (you wouldn%26#039;t have a warm heater) Did you check the fuse for the fan and not just the relay? Might just be the fan is bad. Hook it up to a battery charger or directly to the battery and see if it works.|||Well, then it%26#039;s either a faulty temp sensor, bad fan motor, or a broken wire to the fan relay or from the fan relay to the fan.|||possibly you need a new cooling fan check to see if there is a fuse burnt or a fuseable link bad also hope this helps i think what you are talking about is an electric cooling fan
How hard will it be for me to change radiator in my truck?
I have never replaced a radiator before but it looks pretty simple, take the fan cover off remove all the hoses and tubes from the radiator put the new one in and reconnect hoses. My truck is a 1990 Chevy K1500 5.7 350 TBI. Does any one know any common problems that may occur well replacing my radiator, or how hard it will be thanks.|||it is a pretty simple job on that one ,you have to drain the cooling system out on it first then remove the transmission lines from it then the rest is fairly easy,remember to refill everything once all this is done,and check the transmission fluid you,ll loose a small amount on it,good luck.|||You had already explained what you needed to do, so go for it already.|||You pretty much have it.
tho, I would recommend removing the mounting bolts holding it in before trying to take it out.|||I%26#039;ll state the obvious - drain all the water first.
Commonest problem is air locks in the system. You have to fill it from the bottom up, put a water hose into the bottom hose and push water through until it starts to flow out of the engine side of that bottom hose connection.
Connect up the hose, top up the overflow tank, start the engine and let it circulate with the rad cap OFF so you can see it bubbling around, give a few minutes, turn off, let it cool top up again as needed replace cap.
That should do it.
Check your hose connections after a day or two, they will probably take another turn or two of the screwdriver.
tho, I would recommend removing the mounting bolts holding it in before trying to take it out.|||I%26#039;ll state the obvious - drain all the water first.
Commonest problem is air locks in the system. You have to fill it from the bottom up, put a water hose into the bottom hose and push water through until it starts to flow out of the engine side of that bottom hose connection.
Connect up the hose, top up the overflow tank, start the engine and let it circulate with the rad cap OFF so you can see it bubbling around, give a few minutes, turn off, let it cool top up again as needed replace cap.
That should do it.
Check your hose connections after a day or two, they will probably take another turn or two of the screwdriver.
Would yo uuse a Chemical Flush, or Radiator Conditioner, before changing hte Water Pump?
At this point, i think i should use the Radiator Conditioner.. BEFORE i change Water Pump, of course.. im wondering what %26quot;Priming%26quot; a Cooling System means. Seems the white %26quot;Froth%26quot; i saw, indicative of Cavitation, needs to be remedied.. so i can either:
1) Flush System with Chemical Flush, Run Water Through, Repeat (I can do Radiator, then engine, it will all be off anyways for Water Pump...)
2) Put %26quot;Conditioner%26quot; in there and then refill with Coolant; OR
3) use %26quot;Blue Devil%26quot; or something, and then do the same.
I %26quot;Flushed%26quot; it roughly 5000 miles ago, letting water run through and exit the Upper Radiator Hose. until it ran %26quot;Clear%26quot; but i never took the Lower Hose off, as i cant get to it.
So, i %26quot;topped Off%26quot; the Cooling system too, and my car ONLY has an Expansion Tank to add.. it is the %26quot;Radiator Cap%26quot; i suppose you could say...
If you were me, how would yo uSABE mY Cooling System? Water Pump will be Replace.d. What do i do BEFORE? Do i 1) FLUSH, OR 2) %26quot;Condition%26quot; to perhaps Coat something that is wearing Thin, or 3) %26quot;Blue Devil%26quot; to be on the Safe side, THEN Refill?
2992 Olds Calais 2.5L %26quot;Iorn Duke%26quot; Tech4, 180,000 miles.. Water Pump %26quot;Weeping%26quot; i see Drips at start-up AND i saw a white %26quot;Froth%26quot; think layer.. the Flush i put in was the same color, but that was new because i did that a long time ago. Thanks!|||Hello Binky. good to hear from you again.|||Blue Devil
1) Flush System with Chemical Flush, Run Water Through, Repeat (I can do Radiator, then engine, it will all be off anyways for Water Pump...)
2) Put %26quot;Conditioner%26quot; in there and then refill with Coolant; OR
3) use %26quot;Blue Devil%26quot; or something, and then do the same.
I %26quot;Flushed%26quot; it roughly 5000 miles ago, letting water run through and exit the Upper Radiator Hose. until it ran %26quot;Clear%26quot; but i never took the Lower Hose off, as i cant get to it.
So, i %26quot;topped Off%26quot; the Cooling system too, and my car ONLY has an Expansion Tank to add.. it is the %26quot;Radiator Cap%26quot; i suppose you could say...
If you were me, how would yo uSABE mY Cooling System? Water Pump will be Replace.d. What do i do BEFORE? Do i 1) FLUSH, OR 2) %26quot;Condition%26quot; to perhaps Coat something that is wearing Thin, or 3) %26quot;Blue Devil%26quot; to be on the Safe side, THEN Refill?
2992 Olds Calais 2.5L %26quot;Iorn Duke%26quot; Tech4, 180,000 miles.. Water Pump %26quot;Weeping%26quot; i see Drips at start-up AND i saw a white %26quot;Froth%26quot; think layer.. the Flush i put in was the same color, but that was new because i did that a long time ago. Thanks!|||Hello Binky. good to hear from you again.|||Blue Devil
I have a 1995 Honda Accord LX, I'm changing my oil, and, the oil is HOT!!! why is this, is there something....
.....wrong with my car, overheating? I changed my two radiator hoses which used to go flat, and, the new ones do to, what%26#039;s wrong? I haven%26#039;t been driving my car a long time before i changed my oil, i only drove like 4 miles.
I don%26#039;t have enough money to take it to a mechanic right now, i just started college and spent mostly all of my money on it. Please tell me what%26#039;s wrong!|||Not enough coolant?|||4 miles is enough to heat up the oil. I wont change mine unless the car has been sitting overnight. I%26#039;ve been burned too many times by hot oil.|||could be not enough coolant also you could have a air bubble in your coolant line. It only takes an engine like 5 min to get hot so you might have to wait longer to change your oil.|||Oil lubricates your engine. It will get real hot quick.
Try changing your thermostat if your temp gage says it is running warm|||if the engine has been run for even a few minutes the oil will be hot for a while after it is turned off. keep a rag handy. on the radiater hoses replace the radiater cap. and they will quit sucking shut when the engine cools off.|||Nothings wrong ~ Oil gets hot when it cycles through a warmed up, moving engine. Although changing your oil while it%26#039;s still warm is a good idea because it%26#039;s thinner and tends to bring out plenty of engine grime with it, you really should let it cool off a little the next time to avoid burning yourself. Hope this helps.|||hi man,there is nothing wrong with your car,because all cars do the same thing,and last week i have changed my car%26#039;s oil and it was hot to,so don%26#039;t worry you can spend your money on other things.|||Oil circulates through the engine then goes to the pan to cool. Then it starts all over again. The pistons in your engine are metal and are always going up and down and rubbing against the cylinder. A great deal of friction results from this so we put oil in our car try to lube it up (less friction=less heat) So now instead of piston rubbing cylinder, there%26#039;s a continuous supply of oil to help lube and take away some friction. I know that may not make a lot of since, but bottom line, nothing wrong with your car|||hose problem, collapsing:
Q: What would make a radiator hose collapse?
A: Radiator hoses commonly have a reinforcing spring inside that helps prevent radiator hoses from collapsing. If this reinforcing spring is faulty or missing, the hose may collapse when there is a vacuum in the cooling system. Another cause could be a faulty radiator cap. A radiator cap works to maintain a constant pressure in the cooling system. As the antifreeze mixture begins to cool after engine shutdown, a vacuum is created. If the pressure cap doesn%26#039;t equalize this pressure, a radiator hose can collapse. The small vacuum valve in the radiator cap may not be working properly.
Oil temperature problem.
Driving 4 miles is enough to get the oil hot, that is expected behavior and not the indication of a problem|||oklatom is 100% right
I don%26#039;t have enough money to take it to a mechanic right now, i just started college and spent mostly all of my money on it. Please tell me what%26#039;s wrong!|||Not enough coolant?|||4 miles is enough to heat up the oil. I wont change mine unless the car has been sitting overnight. I%26#039;ve been burned too many times by hot oil.|||could be not enough coolant also you could have a air bubble in your coolant line. It only takes an engine like 5 min to get hot so you might have to wait longer to change your oil.|||Oil lubricates your engine. It will get real hot quick.
Try changing your thermostat if your temp gage says it is running warm|||if the engine has been run for even a few minutes the oil will be hot for a while after it is turned off. keep a rag handy. on the radiater hoses replace the radiater cap. and they will quit sucking shut when the engine cools off.|||Nothings wrong ~ Oil gets hot when it cycles through a warmed up, moving engine. Although changing your oil while it%26#039;s still warm is a good idea because it%26#039;s thinner and tends to bring out plenty of engine grime with it, you really should let it cool off a little the next time to avoid burning yourself. Hope this helps.|||hi man,there is nothing wrong with your car,because all cars do the same thing,and last week i have changed my car%26#039;s oil and it was hot to,so don%26#039;t worry you can spend your money on other things.|||Oil circulates through the engine then goes to the pan to cool. Then it starts all over again. The pistons in your engine are metal and are always going up and down and rubbing against the cylinder. A great deal of friction results from this so we put oil in our car try to lube it up (less friction=less heat) So now instead of piston rubbing cylinder, there%26#039;s a continuous supply of oil to help lube and take away some friction. I know that may not make a lot of since, but bottom line, nothing wrong with your car|||hose problem, collapsing:
Q: What would make a radiator hose collapse?
A: Radiator hoses commonly have a reinforcing spring inside that helps prevent radiator hoses from collapsing. If this reinforcing spring is faulty or missing, the hose may collapse when there is a vacuum in the cooling system. Another cause could be a faulty radiator cap. A radiator cap works to maintain a constant pressure in the cooling system. As the antifreeze mixture begins to cool after engine shutdown, a vacuum is created. If the pressure cap doesn%26#039;t equalize this pressure, a radiator hose can collapse. The small vacuum valve in the radiator cap may not be working properly.
Oil temperature problem.
Driving 4 miles is enough to get the oil hot, that is expected behavior and not the indication of a problem|||oklatom is 100% right
How often should a radiator hose be changed on a car?
Usually it%26#039;ll stay good until you find cracks in it; that%26#039;s about the only way to find out when you need a new one. Also, check around the ends, as the tie-downs might be cutting the hose. It really depends on the temp. outdoors; if it%26#039;s cold, and the car sits quite a while, it%26#039;s more likely to crack. Just check the appearance and go from there! Hope this helps!|||They don%26#039;t really need to be changed unless they are weather-checked, cracked, abraded, burned, or otherwise damaged. They do get old though so it is a good idea to look your hoses over a couple of times a year just to make sure all is well.
If you need to change an old hose it%26#039;s easier to slice the end with a utility knife (after removing the clamp). That way you can just peel it off the connection. If you try to just tug it off you can damage the connection. Heater cores are notorious for cracking if you just tug at an old hose to get it off.|||As soon as it starts to get soft and spongy, or if a bubble or blister forms on it (usually next to a hose clamp that was done up too tight.)
If you need to change an old hose it%26#039;s easier to slice the end with a utility knife (after removing the clamp). That way you can just peel it off the connection. If you try to just tug it off you can damage the connection. Heater cores are notorious for cracking if you just tug at an old hose to get it off.|||As soon as it starts to get soft and spongy, or if a bubble or blister forms on it (usually next to a hose clamp that was done up too tight.)
I bought Radiator Flush for my 95 Maxima?
After changing the Radiator Hoses, Thermostat, and Water pump i still overheat. when the car idles it is fine. The rattle i think is the timing chain off? The Mechanic shop said i had a cracked neck, but the radiator holds pressure. So i wasn%26#039;t trusting their assumption. top hose hot, lower hose not. Can%26#039;t even go around the block before heating up. Shop told me head gasket was fine. Should i flush the radiator with a hose? Use the Chemical Flush stuff? or should I start with the timing chain--maybe not operating the pump properly?|||If it heats up THAT fast, you likely have something more serious going on.
I have seen water pumps that the vanes break off. If you have that rattle noise, I would bet your water pump has internat parts broken and not moving the coolant.
Your timing chain should not drive your water pump and if the timing chain is loose or broke you will notice other problems prior to overheating so I cross that out as the culprit.
Take the drive belt off your water pump and try spinning it by hand, see if it makes noise or feels like it is turning rough. I bet it is the pump.|||I would flush the radiator first and see what happens, it%26#039;s possible that the radiator needs replaced or taken to a radiator shop and rodded out, doesn%26#039;t make sense that it doesn%26#039;t heat up just sitting idling, are you sure you temperature gauge is working properly? or the temperature sending unit isn%26#039;t bad?|||did you make sure you put the thermostat in the correct way?its easy to install them the wrong way ,or if your cetain its correct , did you bleed out the system when you replaced these things, when you operate on hoses and everything air could have gotten into the system causing %26quot;hot spots%26quot;there should be a bleeder screw on your thermostat houseing try opening it up to release the air untill you get antifreeze come out ,try replacing you radiator cap or have it pressure tested also check the fins on your radiator if there all pressed in it might not be disapaiting the heat properly causing it to over heat.also do you have the correct 50/50 antifreeze and water mixture, they either come prediluted or you mix antifreeze with distilled water if you use tap water you can clog up the small tubes in you radiator with calcuim build up ect.Any of these could do the trick.Just process of elimination.Normally its recommended to get your cooling system flushed every 2 years.
I have seen water pumps that the vanes break off. If you have that rattle noise, I would bet your water pump has internat parts broken and not moving the coolant.
Your timing chain should not drive your water pump and if the timing chain is loose or broke you will notice other problems prior to overheating so I cross that out as the culprit.
Take the drive belt off your water pump and try spinning it by hand, see if it makes noise or feels like it is turning rough. I bet it is the pump.|||I would flush the radiator first and see what happens, it%26#039;s possible that the radiator needs replaced or taken to a radiator shop and rodded out, doesn%26#039;t make sense that it doesn%26#039;t heat up just sitting idling, are you sure you temperature gauge is working properly? or the temperature sending unit isn%26#039;t bad?|||did you make sure you put the thermostat in the correct way?its easy to install them the wrong way ,or if your cetain its correct , did you bleed out the system when you replaced these things, when you operate on hoses and everything air could have gotten into the system causing %26quot;hot spots%26quot;there should be a bleeder screw on your thermostat houseing try opening it up to release the air untill you get antifreeze come out ,try replacing you radiator cap or have it pressure tested also check the fins on your radiator if there all pressed in it might not be disapaiting the heat properly causing it to over heat.also do you have the correct 50/50 antifreeze and water mixture, they either come prediluted or you mix antifreeze with distilled water if you use tap water you can clog up the small tubes in you radiator with calcuim build up ect.Any of these could do the trick.Just process of elimination.Normally its recommended to get your cooling system flushed every 2 years.
I drive a 95 Honda Accord LX 4 cyl, I found out why my radiator hose goes flat, (being old) and...............
.......someone (dodgeman) told me to change my air and fuel filter, do I HAVE to do this? I don%26#039;t have much money right now, i%26#039;m going to get my radiator hose changed though.|||Bottom hose I assume? It%26#039;s the one that has suction when the coolant circulates, and when the hose goes bad it will collapse and you overheat. Air and fuel filters are relatively inexpensive, and should be changed if and when they need to be, but as long as the vehicle isn%26#039;t showing signs of problems with the filters, you can just let that go for a while until you need to do it.
How often should you change your air and fuel filter? Most say this: How often should you do this? A good rule of thumb is once or twice a year, or roughly once every 12,000 miles.|||Think about it....if you got money for gas, smokes, beer, chips, you can skimp from these a bit and get the parts you need. At least the air filter(that should be done at least every 2 years.)|||If you%26#039;re changing the top radiator hose, you should also replace the thermostat... it%26#039;s cheap
and easy.|||Any time you take your car to a mechanic, he%26#039;s going to try to sell you more stuff because he gets 40 to 400% profit from the part sale.
Change the air cleaner yourself if it needs it, and change the fuel filter according to the recommended interval in the owner%26#039;s manual.
Your hose is collapsing because the steel spring inside it either rusted out or isn%26#039;t there. Replacing the hose is probably the smartest thing to do.
You%26#039;ve got to be smart about your car or you%26#039;ll spend money needlessly.
Get the oil changed and the chassis lubed minimum twice a year.
Get an alignment once every two years, and have him check your U-joints (or CV-joints) and your brakes.
If it ever seems to run bad, wait through another tank of gas because it could be bad gas, and if it still runs bad, get a tune-up and see if that fixes the problem. 90% of the time it does.
.|||When you change radiator hoses, you should change them both. One is usually the same age as the other. If one is bad, the other might not be right now, but is not far from it.The same goes with belts on older cars that don`t have a serpentine belt....... Money usually is a problem for most people, but if you don`t maintain a car timely and properly, it can cost you a LOT more in the long run. If the radiator hose clamps are good, re-use them. If the air filter isn`t to bad, clean it good with compressed air, it will last a little longer. Replace the fuel filter at recommended intervals. Its a lot cheaper than repairing clogged injectors.|||Your raidiator hose goes flat due to negative pressure in the cooling system. This is due to the raidiator cap vent or the hose going to the overflow is plugged. Try cleaning them out. Even an old raidiator hose will not go flat if there is pressure in the system. Your cooling system is a little low and is trying to draw coolant from the overflow jug.|||You need a radiator cap. Your cooling system is trying to suck coolant out of the reservoir bottle but cant because the little valve in the cap is stuck shut so it just sucks the hose flat.
How often should you change your air and fuel filter? Most say this: How often should you do this? A good rule of thumb is once or twice a year, or roughly once every 12,000 miles.|||Think about it....if you got money for gas, smokes, beer, chips, you can skimp from these a bit and get the parts you need. At least the air filter(that should be done at least every 2 years.)|||If you%26#039;re changing the top radiator hose, you should also replace the thermostat... it%26#039;s cheap
and easy.|||Any time you take your car to a mechanic, he%26#039;s going to try to sell you more stuff because he gets 40 to 400% profit from the part sale.
Change the air cleaner yourself if it needs it, and change the fuel filter according to the recommended interval in the owner%26#039;s manual.
Your hose is collapsing because the steel spring inside it either rusted out or isn%26#039;t there. Replacing the hose is probably the smartest thing to do.
You%26#039;ve got to be smart about your car or you%26#039;ll spend money needlessly.
Get the oil changed and the chassis lubed minimum twice a year.
Get an alignment once every two years, and have him check your U-joints (or CV-joints) and your brakes.
If it ever seems to run bad, wait through another tank of gas because it could be bad gas, and if it still runs bad, get a tune-up and see if that fixes the problem. 90% of the time it does.
.|||When you change radiator hoses, you should change them both. One is usually the same age as the other. If one is bad, the other might not be right now, but is not far from it.The same goes with belts on older cars that don`t have a serpentine belt....... Money usually is a problem for most people, but if you don`t maintain a car timely and properly, it can cost you a LOT more in the long run. If the radiator hose clamps are good, re-use them. If the air filter isn`t to bad, clean it good with compressed air, it will last a little longer. Replace the fuel filter at recommended intervals. Its a lot cheaper than repairing clogged injectors.|||Your raidiator hose goes flat due to negative pressure in the cooling system. This is due to the raidiator cap vent or the hose going to the overflow is plugged. Try cleaning them out. Even an old raidiator hose will not go flat if there is pressure in the system. Your cooling system is a little low and is trying to draw coolant from the overflow jug.|||You need a radiator cap. Your cooling system is trying to suck coolant out of the reservoir bottle but cant because the little valve in the cap is stuck shut so it just sucks the hose flat.
How do you clean the inside of a plastic car radiator overflow container?
The interior of the container is caked with, what I assume is, lime or scale. I can safely and easily drain and remove the container (I%26#039;m a longtime backyard mechanic), but I can%26#039;t figure out how to clean it, because a hose or similarly pressurized device won%26#039;t fit into it. FWIW, I have a %26#039;99 Crown Vic, and there is nothing wrong with the radiator, hoses, or fluid, which was changed less than 2 years ago and of which my coolant tester says is fine.|||Try vinegar and water mixture.|||I should have deleted this Q; the %26quot;ken k%26quot; answer was too extreme, and Gary J%26#039;s answer was half wrong: you can%26#039;t clean anything with the very thing that caused the problem, in this case, water! Vinegar might work, but I%26#039;m surprised nobody said %26quot;CLR%26quot; or similar (yes, you have to use water with it!).
|||replace it it wont clean
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|||replace it it wont clean
What is the steam coming from my radiator?
I just did a oil change and radiator flush on my car. Put in new antifreeze and notice there was steam after I let it run for a few minutes. Is it too much or too little? I accidentally spilled some one the radiator trying to pour it in the car. The car runs more quiet than it did before since I changed the oil and oil filter. Just want to make sure the steam is not a bad thing since my last car blew the radiator hose, heated the engine, and warped it. If anyone can give me a little insight. Thanks|||The car is fine,no problem.|||the steam is the water you spilled that is now being boiled off of the radiator and possible exhaust manifold you spilled it on
no problem,|||did you make sure you mixed the anti freeze with water before you put it in? you%26#039;re supposed to go half water and antifreeze. also its a good idea to fill your radiator then start your engine with the cap off. (this lets coolant get in your hoses and to your engine) then barely top it off with more coolant (do not overfill it. just until you see fluid) the steam you saw was normal due to pressure in the radiator.|||no the steam isnt a bad thing. it sholudnt be a problem it s just the spilled oil heating off the radiator|||dont worry its just the water and coolant burning off the radiator on the outside,a little like putting water on your exhaust and then starting you car,what happens the water evaperates off as steam as the exhaust gets hot.
no problem,|||did you make sure you mixed the anti freeze with water before you put it in? you%26#039;re supposed to go half water and antifreeze. also its a good idea to fill your radiator then start your engine with the cap off. (this lets coolant get in your hoses and to your engine) then barely top it off with more coolant (do not overfill it. just until you see fluid) the steam you saw was normal due to pressure in the radiator.|||no the steam isnt a bad thing. it sholudnt be a problem it s just the spilled oil heating off the radiator|||dont worry its just the water and coolant burning off the radiator on the outside,a little like putting water on your exhaust and then starting you car,what happens the water evaperates off as steam as the exhaust gets hot.
Need info on replacing 1996 Ranger Lower Radiator Hose?
You wouldn%26#039;t think that this would be difficult but.... My Ford Ranger 6 cyl, 3 L, has a small 3/4%26quot; or so hose coming off the lower radiator hose, besides the large connection to the bottom of the radiator, and the large connection to the engine. Sort of a %26quot;y%26quot; looking hose. The replacement hoses listed for sale only have the large connections. What is the small branch off the hose for (this hose is original) and what do I need to do to get my hose changed?
Thanks, hope that was halfways clear.... ;)|||Just one more way the goofball engineers make it harder for people to do their own repairs....have to buy the factory hose---at a huge price probably--- if aftermarket do not match.
Small hose breaks=buy the whole hose, aftermarket don%26#039;t carry or can%26#039;t reproduce=buy the factory hose, stuck in the middle of nowhere=have the truck towed because you can%26#039;t match a 15.00 section of hose...ad nauseum.|||I recommend checking with the dealer for the proper application as this hose is needed|||Transmission cooler lines--stop fooling around and go to the dealer for this work..... Is that clear??
Thanks, hope that was halfways clear.... ;)|||Just one more way the goofball engineers make it harder for people to do their own repairs....have to buy the factory hose---at a huge price probably--- if aftermarket do not match.
Small hose breaks=buy the whole hose, aftermarket don%26#039;t carry or can%26#039;t reproduce=buy the factory hose, stuck in the middle of nowhere=have the truck towed because you can%26#039;t match a 15.00 section of hose...ad nauseum.|||I recommend checking with the dealer for the proper application as this hose is needed|||Transmission cooler lines--stop fooling around and go to the dealer for this work..... Is that clear??
How do i change hose running from radiator to back of suburban or is that the problem?
i was driving home from vegas, car started to run hot, i pulled over, checked radiator, and reservoir
both were empty. i filled them up, and continued on my way, this procedure happened all the way
home. then i noticed water leaking from the right side of the suburban, just behind the rear tire.
could this be why car keeps running hot..|||If you have a heater in the rear (Many Suburbans do) that hose running to the heater is most likely the problem. If you can find the exact spot of the leak you may be able to fix it without replacing the whole hose. Whether you repair or replace it, make sure that it is hidden away up inside the frame when you are finished so it will not be hit by rocks from the road or caught on anything you drive over.|||I suspect a blown head gasket. Water would be very visible coming out of the tailpipe, both steam and drips of water even when the engine is warmed up.|||Isn%26#039;t that where the tailpipe lets out/ You have a blown head gasket and maybe a cracked head too. The water is going through the combustion chamber and out the tailpipe. The engine gets hot after it loses water and can%26#039;t cool down.
both were empty. i filled them up, and continued on my way, this procedure happened all the way
home. then i noticed water leaking from the right side of the suburban, just behind the rear tire.
could this be why car keeps running hot..|||If you have a heater in the rear (Many Suburbans do) that hose running to the heater is most likely the problem. If you can find the exact spot of the leak you may be able to fix it without replacing the whole hose. Whether you repair or replace it, make sure that it is hidden away up inside the frame when you are finished so it will not be hit by rocks from the road or caught on anything you drive over.|||I suspect a blown head gasket. Water would be very visible coming out of the tailpipe, both steam and drips of water even when the engine is warmed up.|||Isn%26#039;t that where the tailpipe lets out/ You have a blown head gasket and maybe a cracked head too. The water is going through the combustion chamber and out the tailpipe. The engine gets hot after it loses water and can%26#039;t cool down.
Can someone tell me how to change/install a new top radiator hose snout ?
I have a 1997 Ford F350 7.3 turbo diesel engine. Can anyone tell me how to change or install a new top radiator hose snout with square o ring on the top of thermostat ? Thanks|||Radiator repair should be done at a radiator repair shop
it is not a easy job.|||go to auto zone buy the hose and a gal of antifreeze, go hone let the car cool off pop the hood get a flat head screwdriver turn the screw on the clamp at the end of each hose until the clamp slides down the hose some of them don%26#039;t slide but get it lose than grab the hose close to the radiator pull it off than pull it off of the motor throw it away and slide the new hose onto the motor tighten down the hose clamp than place the hose and clamp onto the radiator side tighten down the clamp than open your radiator cap poor in some antifreeze put the cap on drive the car until the temp gets to norm running temp make Shure it is not leaking and you are done
it is not a easy job.|||go to auto zone buy the hose and a gal of antifreeze, go hone let the car cool off pop the hood get a flat head screwdriver turn the screw on the clamp at the end of each hose until the clamp slides down the hose some of them don%26#039;t slide but get it lose than grab the hose close to the radiator pull it off than pull it off of the motor throw it away and slide the new hose onto the motor tighten down the hose clamp than place the hose and clamp onto the radiator side tighten down the clamp than open your radiator cap poor in some antifreeze put the cap on drive the car until the temp gets to norm running temp make Shure it is not leaking and you are done
How do I change a radiator hose on a 2000 Dodge Durango?
there is probably some sort of hose clamp on the radiator hose. if not, you may have to cut off the original and put on the new hose, using a clamp. Such as the kind that tightens with a screw driver. good luck!|||first remove radiator cap after the engine has cooled. if your radiator has a drain valve open it and drain the coolant into a pan. if there is no valve. remove the lower radiator hose and drain that way. this is messy so do it somewhere where can soak up the coolant. it is poisonuos to animals and sweet to the taste so be careful. to remove your hose first place your replacement hose next to it to insure you have the right one. if you have the traditional screw type clamps loosen them until you can slide them freely up the hose. if you have clamp on clamps. get a pair of channel locks and pinch them while wiggling them up the hose. after you have the clamps out of the way. use a flathead screwdriver to seperate the hose from the radiator and the engine, by sliding it under the hose and twisting slightly. do not try to pry the hose off with the screwdriver, just loosen the bind between the rubber and the metal. next remove the hose by twisting it as you pull it off. once you have it off, take the clamps off and put them on the new hose in the same direction they were on the old hose. to replace hose lubricate the inside ends with WD40 or other lube to make it easier and reduce risk of breaking something (including your knuckles) after you have new one in place, look around the area to see if you knocked slomething loose or broke anything by mistake. (some electrical connections in the area can be knocked loose fairly easily) close the drain valve or replace bottom hose. then fill radiator with 50/50 blend of anti-freeze/water. repace cap and start motor let run until temp comes up and thermostat opens. watch temp gauge to see it rise, it will fall when thermostat opens and lets cool water in. while waiting check for leaks, not only in new hose but everything you can see. let engine cool and top off radiator. as always wear eye protection and dispose of your waste properly.|||a hose is quite easy. most hoses use a screw type clamp or pinch clamp.
1 simple tool is all you need.
screw type is simple a screw tightens and loosens the clamp, use a screwdriver and unscrew. add the clamps to the new hose and tighten.
pinch type can be tricky to get to, with a pair of pliers pinch the 2 tabs and pull the hose off. add the clamps to the new hose and pinch to install.
1 simple tool is all you need.
screw type is simple a screw tightens and loosens the clamp, use a screwdriver and unscrew. add the clamps to the new hose and tighten.
pinch type can be tricky to get to, with a pair of pliers pinch the 2 tabs and pull the hose off. add the clamps to the new hose and pinch to install.
My 92 Legend Acura is Overheating... eventhough I've changed, the waterpump, radiator, hoses, thermostat.?
why does it still keep overheating.... also, I put in a refurbished engine(just in case it was the head gasket)
also, i need to replace a part the is behind the waterpump (it think it%26#039;s some kinda of sensor, but i don%26#039;t know the name of this part)|||If the cooling fan is working then I would suggest that you bleed out the cooling system because it sounds like you still have a air pocket in the cooling system...
also, i need to replace a part the is behind the waterpump (it think it%26#039;s some kinda of sensor, but i don%26#039;t know the name of this part)|||If the cooling fan is working then I would suggest that you bleed out the cooling system because it sounds like you still have a air pocket in the cooling system...
How much should this cost? 03 Dodge Stratus, water pump, upper & lower radiator hoses, thermostat, timing belt?
Rear Brake job and a transmission change? I know that is a lot of work, but can you give me an educated estimate of what this would cost?|||You are missing the engine size (4 or 6 cylinder), that will most likely impact labor costs, but the following are probably decent estimates of the work you have listed (parts %26amp; labor totals)
Timing Belt %26amp; Water Pump = $450 - 700
Upper %26amp; Lower Radiator Hoses, Thermostat = ~ $300
Rear Brake Job (Pads, Rotors, Flush) = ~$250
Transmission %26quot;Change%26quot;? = Could vary....probably at least $900 - $2000
So that total = $1900 - 3250
If you need a new transmission on top of all this other work, it may not even be worth keeping the car. The timing belt and water pump are usually a 60 or 90,000 mile tuneup. If they were never done on your car, it%26#039;s likely you have other problems, especially if you are at high mileage. If you transmission is gone, that%26#039;s unfortunate, but this job could be costly. If you can%26#039;t afford a new car, or a reliable used car for slightly more, do the work.
Consider buying parts on you own, it%26#039;s typically cheaper, then bring them there and just pay for labor...at least for the brakes. The timing belt and water pump are MOSTLY labor costs. The cooling system work is just maintenance.
Good luck, and don%26#039;t forget to keep those tires properly inflated and have your oil changed periodically.|||water pump like 40
radiator hoses like 10 each
thermostat like 5-10
timing belt like 30
transmission pan and gasket 15
f.y.i the front brakes wear out more than the back ones
it all depends one who you hire to install everything
ps:you can probably can the radiator hoses and theremostat you just have to get ur hands a little dirty
check autozone.com
they have the prices right there
Timing Belt %26amp; Water Pump = $450 - 700
Upper %26amp; Lower Radiator Hoses, Thermostat = ~ $300
Rear Brake Job (Pads, Rotors, Flush) = ~$250
Transmission %26quot;Change%26quot;? = Could vary....probably at least $900 - $2000
So that total = $1900 - 3250
If you need a new transmission on top of all this other work, it may not even be worth keeping the car. The timing belt and water pump are usually a 60 or 90,000 mile tuneup. If they were never done on your car, it%26#039;s likely you have other problems, especially if you are at high mileage. If you transmission is gone, that%26#039;s unfortunate, but this job could be costly. If you can%26#039;t afford a new car, or a reliable used car for slightly more, do the work.
Consider buying parts on you own, it%26#039;s typically cheaper, then bring them there and just pay for labor...at least for the brakes. The timing belt and water pump are MOSTLY labor costs. The cooling system work is just maintenance.
Good luck, and don%26#039;t forget to keep those tires properly inflated and have your oil changed periodically.|||water pump like 40
radiator hoses like 10 each
thermostat like 5-10
timing belt like 30
transmission pan and gasket 15
f.y.i the front brakes wear out more than the back ones
it all depends one who you hire to install everything
ps:you can probably can the radiator hoses and theremostat you just have to get ur hands a little dirty
check autozone.com
they have the prices right there
How to change the lower radiator hose in a 1996 Dodge Grand Caravan?
Drain all the coolant from the radiator hose. Remove the hose. Replace. Fill with coolant. Bleed air from system.
Should I bleed my radiator system before I change the upper radiator hose?
My upper radiator hose is leaking and I need to replace it. I have read up on it, and mostly I see that you need to burp the system after you%26#039;ve filled the radiator fluid back up. And the dealership says they would have to bleed the system to do this repair for me. Could the %26quot;average%26quot; person bleed their radiator system at home, and is this even necessary for this repair? (I know the engine must be cold before doing the repair.)|||You do NOT need to bleed the system BEFORE this repair! Change the hose when cold. After the hose has been changed, start the engine with radiator cap off. Keep a 50/50 mix of antifreeze/water mix on hand. As the vehicle warms up, the thermostat will open. You will know this because your coolant level will drop. Fill the radiator till full. Put the cap back on. At the top of you goose neck above your thermostat, you may, or may not have a bleed screw. If you do, open it until all air is burped, and coolant starts to come out in a steady stream. Then close it. Check coolant level again, and you should be okay!|||Yes easy,but get a manual for this car and it will expain in
detail,20 bucks.|||Yes, you need to get all the air out of the radiator system for it to work properly. If you are mechanically inclined, have tools, space, and time to do it you could probably get it done in a couple of hours. On the other hand it doesn%26#039;t cost much to have someone do it for you, and the average mechanic can save you some money rather than going to the dealer.
Cheers|||At the bottom of your Radiator is a bleed cock. Drain out a couple of quarts of antifreeze then change out your upper rad hose. Some will spill out on your engine side. Once your hose is installed install your anti freeze. As for bleeding it, you might or might not have to do this.
I would fill it and try it. Keep a eye on your temp gauge. 15$ manual will take you along way when doing your own repairs. good luck|||You say it is the upper rad. hose that you are replacing, right. If that be the case, you are at the highest point in the cooling system and air rises to the top. So you will have the least problem in doing this repair. Once you have replaced the hose, service the cooling system to the top and install the rad. cap. Then make sure that you have serviced the over flow tank to its proper level. Start the vehicle and turn on the heater allow it to run to operating temperature. Excess fluid will be pushed into the over flow tank and as it cools, contraction of the fluid will draw off of the tank to set the proper level. Recheck the overflow and top off if necessary.
detail,20 bucks.|||Yes, you need to get all the air out of the radiator system for it to work properly. If you are mechanically inclined, have tools, space, and time to do it you could probably get it done in a couple of hours. On the other hand it doesn%26#039;t cost much to have someone do it for you, and the average mechanic can save you some money rather than going to the dealer.
Cheers|||At the bottom of your Radiator is a bleed cock. Drain out a couple of quarts of antifreeze then change out your upper rad hose. Some will spill out on your engine side. Once your hose is installed install your anti freeze. As for bleeding it, you might or might not have to do this.
I would fill it and try it. Keep a eye on your temp gauge. 15$ manual will take you along way when doing your own repairs. good luck|||You say it is the upper rad. hose that you are replacing, right. If that be the case, you are at the highest point in the cooling system and air rises to the top. So you will have the least problem in doing this repair. Once you have replaced the hose, service the cooling system to the top and install the rad. cap. Then make sure that you have serviced the over flow tank to its proper level. Start the vehicle and turn on the heater allow it to run to operating temperature. Excess fluid will be pushed into the over flow tank and as it cools, contraction of the fluid will draw off of the tank to set the proper level. Recheck the overflow and top off if necessary.
How to change lower radiator hose on a S10 blazer 1997?
First, drain the anti-freeze into a bucket, there will be a wing nut type device on either the bottom or lower sides of the radiator. next, remove the lower hose clamp at the radiator, you%26#039;ll need either a flat head screwdriver, a proper size nut driver, or a pair of pliers, depending on the type of clamp. Once you have the clamp off, pull the hose off of the radiator. Now follow the hose to where it attaches to the motor, %26amp; remove the clamp on that end, %26amp; pull the hose completely off. Install the new hose in the reverse order, starting at the motor %26amp; working back to the radiator. Don%26#039;t forget to put the clamp on the new hose BEFORE you put the hose into place, otherwise you%26#039;ll have to pull the hose back off, put the clamp on, %26amp; put the hose back into place. This can be a real p.i.t.a. because there is usually little space to work in, %26amp; once you get the hose into place, you really don%26#039;t want to have to pull it back off. Once the hose %26amp; clamps are in place, make sure both clamps are tight, close the drain plug (very important! lol), %26amp; fill the radiator up with the manufacturer%26#039;s recomended anti-freeze. Check for any leaks, %26amp; off you go.|||OK so when you change the hose please drain the antifreeze into a container first so not to ruin my Veggy Garden|||Fun job, done best from under the car with the car on a lift. You must remove the fan shroud to get to the lower radiator connection.
remember to dain the coolant first
remember to dain the coolant first
If my steering is messed up and I need hoses changed can I tell the repair shop to only replace the hoses?
I can%26#039;t afford a steering column as of right now but it is still drivable. Will they just replace the radiator hoses if I tell them to only do them? Will they let me leave the shop if the steering is a little dangerous?|||normaly no its on their heads if u leave their workshop and crash. so get it all done at the same time. it may save your life.......|||maybe they will give you some credit.
Would it be smart to replace all the radiator hoses in a used 1998 Expedition?
I just bought a used 1998 Expedition with 132,000 miles. I%26#039;m not sure how work has been done, exept the oil change every 5,000 miles. I%26#039;ve heard of a lot of problems with a hose leaking and shorting out the coil. I%26#039;m using this as my towing vehicle and camping trip vehicle so it needs to be reliable(Yes, I know it is a Ford). Any thing I should change to keep it reliable? Any ideas with be appreciated. Thanks|||i%26#039;d take it to a mechanic you trust (if you don%26#039;t know one, check www.cartalk.com) and ask them to look it over, chances are you might need some new hoses or belts but maybe not all of them. no sense in replacing something that still has life to it.
i%26#039;d ignore that whole chevy vs. ford thing. there are lemons from every company, if one was so superior to the other , wouldn%26#039;t one of them be out of business. i owned a 90 ford bronco 2 and it was very mechanically sound.|||No reason to do this.|||My father used to buy hoses and the such and keep them locked in his tool box. If anything happened along the road he was prepared. Just an idea.|||The coil is at the back of the engine and the radiator hoses connect at the front so no reason for radiator hoses to short the coil. Just drive it around for a week and check your coolant level regularly when the engine is cold so you get an accurate reading to see if it is using any coolant.
I would not take it to a mechanic, their answer is yes you need them hoses replaced they are about to shred.|||Before towing have a pressure test on the water system. Hoses now days are good and if they dont leak or feel spongy they will be ok . Check Belts are not too far down into the pulleys I have a Ford Diesel Ute and its great for camping. Check Brakes Check steering reservoir Have a battery check done ~~|||Change the emblems. This will increase your power and trade-in value.|||I would change the hoses for sure. Also, check the fan belt, cracks in your fluid
containers, the radiator, tires. I would strongly suggest taking it to a reliable
shop that you know of and have them give it a good going over. Check the brakes, and the shocks. To check the shocks, just bounce the car a few times and pay attention to how it feels. Cars are a huge expense and I would hate to think of you out in the middle of nowhere with a problem. Also, buy a good spare
tire. Make sure that you have a good working cell phone just in case and hope that the signals get picked up. I wish you all the best of luck and have fun!|||This is a fix that is totally up to you for piece of mind. Give the hoses a firm squeeze to check their condition. If you can feel that they are brittle it might be a good idea to replace them. The hoses shouldn%26#039;t cost you more than $20 or $30 and would take less than 15min to replace.|||A simple check of each hose should tell you if it needs replacing. Look it over for any sign of excessive wear or damage, also squeeze it along it%26#039;s length and if it is soft
and worn. Any auto shop will do it for you and advise you as to your needs ... but use one that is trustworthy.|||I think so yeah. If not, it would definitely affect your car%26#039;s cooling system. Change it while the problem is still small.|||The hoses are 9 to 10 years old. I would think they are about due to be replaced. Since you will be towing with the expy then I would replace them for peace of mind. A visual inspection of the hoses will let you know if they need it or not. See if the old hoses are spongy or leaking. Also you may want to change the transmission fluid. Take it to a place that does a power flush, this will remove all the old fluid in the torque converter too. The brake fluid is another candidate for change. Brake fluid will absorb moisture and it will boil the moisture when the fluid gets hot. This will cause spongy brakes or even brake failure by putting air into the lines. good luck
i%26#039;d ignore that whole chevy vs. ford thing. there are lemons from every company, if one was so superior to the other , wouldn%26#039;t one of them be out of business. i owned a 90 ford bronco 2 and it was very mechanically sound.|||No reason to do this.|||My father used to buy hoses and the such and keep them locked in his tool box. If anything happened along the road he was prepared. Just an idea.|||The coil is at the back of the engine and the radiator hoses connect at the front so no reason for radiator hoses to short the coil. Just drive it around for a week and check your coolant level regularly when the engine is cold so you get an accurate reading to see if it is using any coolant.
I would not take it to a mechanic, their answer is yes you need them hoses replaced they are about to shred.|||Before towing have a pressure test on the water system. Hoses now days are good and if they dont leak or feel spongy they will be ok . Check Belts are not too far down into the pulleys I have a Ford Diesel Ute and its great for camping. Check Brakes Check steering reservoir Have a battery check done ~~|||Change the emblems. This will increase your power and trade-in value.|||I would change the hoses for sure. Also, check the fan belt, cracks in your fluid
containers, the radiator, tires. I would strongly suggest taking it to a reliable
shop that you know of and have them give it a good going over. Check the brakes, and the shocks. To check the shocks, just bounce the car a few times and pay attention to how it feels. Cars are a huge expense and I would hate to think of you out in the middle of nowhere with a problem. Also, buy a good spare
tire. Make sure that you have a good working cell phone just in case and hope that the signals get picked up. I wish you all the best of luck and have fun!|||This is a fix that is totally up to you for piece of mind. Give the hoses a firm squeeze to check their condition. If you can feel that they are brittle it might be a good idea to replace them. The hoses shouldn%26#039;t cost you more than $20 or $30 and would take less than 15min to replace.|||A simple check of each hose should tell you if it needs replacing. Look it over for any sign of excessive wear or damage, also squeeze it along it%26#039;s length and if it is soft
and worn. Any auto shop will do it for you and advise you as to your needs ... but use one that is trustworthy.|||I think so yeah. If not, it would definitely affect your car%26#039;s cooling system. Change it while the problem is still small.|||The hoses are 9 to 10 years old. I would think they are about due to be replaced. Since you will be towing with the expy then I would replace them for peace of mind. A visual inspection of the hoses will let you know if they need it or not. See if the old hoses are spongy or leaking. Also you may want to change the transmission fluid. Take it to a place that does a power flush, this will remove all the old fluid in the torque converter too. The brake fluid is another candidate for change. Brake fluid will absorb moisture and it will boil the moisture when the fluid gets hot. This will cause spongy brakes or even brake failure by putting air into the lines. good luck
How much will it cost me to change my upper and lower radiator hoses in a 2003 chrysler pt cruiser?
Probably about $40 if you do it yourself and around $200 if you have someone do it for you.|||I agree with Pengy....Why? If there%26#039;s no leaks, and the rubber on the hose isn%26#039;t cracked, then don%26#039;t worry. If it is looking shabby, then go to your nearest parts store, and get replacements. It%26#039;s an easy fix, and sure cheaper than taking it to the dealer!
Good Luck!|||Question would be why? If they are not leaking (and it is rare for both to go out at the same time) there is no use for it. Simple fix using a screwdriver. Hose about $10-20 Replace coolant $20, feeling of accomplishing it, priceless
Good Luck!|||Question would be why? If they are not leaking (and it is rare for both to go out at the same time) there is no use for it. Simple fix using a screwdriver. Hose about $10-20 Replace coolant $20, feeling of accomplishing it, priceless
Is it normal for the lower radiator hose to have pressure; it feels like it wants to burst.?
It is not marking hot. I%26#039;ve changed termostat, radiator hose, other hose that has to do with coolant system, temp. sensor, flushed the radiator and changed water pump. Car was getting hot. Last thing i did was change water pump but lower rad. hose still has alot of pressure.|||Th radiator cap maintains pressure in the radiator, to prevent heating. A new radiator cap may be in order. Some hold pressure at 4 lbs or so. Water under pressure comes to a boil at a higher temp.
I changed the radiator hose but the car is still running hot?
Could it be the thermostat? How can I tell|||Check to see that the electric fan that cools the radiator is coming on when the car is running hot. If not you need to replace the cooling fans and control relay.Check for radiator blockage, remove radiator to replace with new to repair problem.Try replacing the thermostat, sometimes thermostats can open partially causing the effect you describe. Replace thermostat with new to recheck system.Have a pressure check done to see if antifreeze is still leaking. Check near the water pump for leaks, and check if see if the antifreeze is circulating, it will get real hot.|||thermostat|||thermostat is sticking|||Make sure you add your coolant!!!! :-)|||thermostats are cheap and easy to replace. I would go ahead and change it out if you aren%26#039;t sure. What prompted you to change the hose in the first place?|||I would suggest the thermostat. The %26quot;very intelligent%26quot; person who asked why you changed the radiator hose I guess didn%26#039;t realize that you changed it because your car was overheating! lol
Also, you should check your coolant reservoir and make sure you have it above the min line and below the max line.
Good luck!|||Cooling systems are simple.
If they have water/coolant and it is circulating as is is intended it is working.
The thermostat if stuck can cause it to over heat.
because its a pressurized system (pressure causes the boiling temp to be higher) if the cap is bad it can cause problems.
Also if the radiator has has radiator stop leak put in it, that will restrict water flow.
last thing is water pump but that is easy to determine. obvious loud noise from barrings or open cap and see if water is circulating.
If you have a bad head gasket that will cause loss of coolant in time (short/or long) foam in the coolant and also cause high temps.
To test thermo you heat engine and squeeze the hose or you remove it put it in a pot on the stove with water and heat the water. See what temp it opens at or if it sticks. easier to just replace for $6|||Changing the hose doesn%26#039;t stop your car from overheating (unless the hose is leaking -- but then you would have seen it).
And adding more antifreeze doesn%26#039;t do anything either. Your radiator should be filled up to the top with a mixture of 50/50 water/antifreeze mixture. If your radiator is not full, then that is why it is over heating.
Like everyone else said, it is the thermostat that allows water to circulate through your engine. If it is old, it might be sticking. Replace it next.|||i have the best idea for helping with this problem. what kind of freaking car do you have. each car can have its own little set of common problems.|||the radiator needs to be full and yes it can be the thermostat or the fan not working, the water pump or the cooling system needs flushing out.
Also, you should check your coolant reservoir and make sure you have it above the min line and below the max line.
Good luck!|||Cooling systems are simple.
If they have water/coolant and it is circulating as is is intended it is working.
The thermostat if stuck can cause it to over heat.
because its a pressurized system (pressure causes the boiling temp to be higher) if the cap is bad it can cause problems.
Also if the radiator has has radiator stop leak put in it, that will restrict water flow.
last thing is water pump but that is easy to determine. obvious loud noise from barrings or open cap and see if water is circulating.
If you have a bad head gasket that will cause loss of coolant in time (short/or long) foam in the coolant and also cause high temps.
To test thermo you heat engine and squeeze the hose or you remove it put it in a pot on the stove with water and heat the water. See what temp it opens at or if it sticks. easier to just replace for $6|||Changing the hose doesn%26#039;t stop your car from overheating (unless the hose is leaking -- but then you would have seen it).
And adding more antifreeze doesn%26#039;t do anything either. Your radiator should be filled up to the top with a mixture of 50/50 water/antifreeze mixture. If your radiator is not full, then that is why it is over heating.
Like everyone else said, it is the thermostat that allows water to circulate through your engine. If it is old, it might be sticking. Replace it next.|||i have the best idea for helping with this problem. what kind of freaking car do you have. each car can have its own little set of common problems.|||the radiator needs to be full and yes it can be the thermostat or the fan not working, the water pump or the cooling system needs flushing out.
Can you change the bottom radiator hose without taking the front of the car off?
We have a 2000 Grand Prix. Trying to change the bottom radiator hose. Does anyone know a way to change this without taking the whole front end off?|||You should be able to just take off the lower shields to access it, I never heard of a car that you couldn%26#039;t change it without taking the front end off.
Honda Accord 1996 is still leaking coolant after changing most of cooling system. What else could it be?
My car is leaking coolant everytime I drive it. From the looks of it, coolant is coming out of the radiator cap while I%26#039;m driving because I can see small puffs of smoke/stream and smell it. When I stop the car and let it sit for a few minutes or a few hours, coolant drips from under and near the reserve tank and under some places of the radiator. Also, it seems the more I drive the more coolant I lose. I had the water pump/timing/oil changed a few days ago. Upper and lower radiator hoses changed 2 months ago. And a new radiator cap half a year ago. All parts are Honda OEM and installed by the Dealership.
I am thinking that my radiator is bad or maybe that and the fans. What does it look like to you guys? Could it be a blown head gasket or bad ATF hoses? Anything else that could possibly be wrong?
I refill the coolant before every drive and check the oil while I do. Oil seems clean and always at the same level. And there is no white/grey residue under the oil cap.|||look closely to the radiator top tank...there very common for them to crack on that year model....look close and u will find it|||take it to a shop and ask for a pressure check on the system. It put pressure into the system, while the car is still and not running and you can see where the coolant is coming out.|||You could be overfilling it, or your engine could be running hot. Take it to a honda dealer and ask them.|||I had that problem with my Accord 1996 and I used to go to the Dealerthip also to get original replacements. Well, I changed the radiator itself (it is a plastic radiator) because it leaked, and I had also changed a switch that activates the fan, I think it is a thermostate, because if it is not working well fans just work to slow and dont cool enough.
Other important part is the clutch of the fan.
You really have to open the hood and look for a leak, you need to know where the steam comes. If it comes from the radiator cap means you have no leak but think to change the switches that activate the fans, you can see if the fan is slower that usually.
Sincerely I hope you can find it out this problem, dont let your car overheat. Luck my friend.
Pd. No ofense but consider replacing your car, I am also considering replacing my Accordo 1996 because I have had a lot of problems with it, these cars are very good when new, but after some years replacement parts are hard to find and the dealerships just work without honest and efficient diagnostics.|||first problem you went to the dealership they over charge for less work i recommend going to a smaller shop family owned tell them your problem and recommend to them to have the car pressure tested which will tell you where its leaking from, or it could be from the timing belt job so you might want to go back to them but i wouldnt pay a dime for them to check there work.
ps i own my own auto repair.|||Okay, I guess you%26#039;ve checked the thermostat and also checked the fans by now to see that they%26#039;re actually still hooked up and haven%26#039;t had a wire pulled off from the sensor switch. That sort of thing happens now and then when pople have been working under the hood.
It SOUNDS like the cylinder head or gasket. The car%26#039;s running and coolant loss symptoms you%26#039;ve described match up perfectly. BUT, you say the oil is clean, which is so definitive that it almost rules out the head.
Could be a partially blocked radiator core, yes. But if the flow looks good I%26#039;d doubt it. You can get it flow tested if you like. Good garages have the gadgets to do it. It%26#039;s also possible that the reserve tank has a crack in it. Very rare but possible.
One last possibility comes to mind. I hate to suggest it but there is a slight chance that it%26#039;s an external, hairline crack in the engine block. In that case, the oil will still run clean but you%26#039;ll lose coolant. One of my friends had it happen on a racing buggy and it drove them nuts until they asked my Dad and he found it.
(These sorts of cracks are usually a result of having the engine really hot then going through water -- like a deep puddle. It%26#039;s possible to %26#039;shock%26#039; the block and crck it. It%26#039;s something like putting a hot jar in cold water. Not as dramatic, of course, but the varying rates of expansion can cause a fracture in the metal.)
Hope that%26#039;s not it the block because it%26#039;s a major repair job, but thought I%26#039;d better suggest it in case everyone else%26#039;s ideas draw a blank.
Lenky.|||there are lots of places that can leak coolant. check closely around all of the hoses, including the heater and bypass hoses; if your car has over 100k miles a radiator is likely, and can be diagnosed simply by the location of the leaked coolant. atf hoses cannot leak coolant, only atf fluid. have a tech put a pressure testing device on your car and look around, leaks are usually easy enough to find. good luck
I am thinking that my radiator is bad or maybe that and the fans. What does it look like to you guys? Could it be a blown head gasket or bad ATF hoses? Anything else that could possibly be wrong?
I refill the coolant before every drive and check the oil while I do. Oil seems clean and always at the same level. And there is no white/grey residue under the oil cap.|||look closely to the radiator top tank...there very common for them to crack on that year model....look close and u will find it|||take it to a shop and ask for a pressure check on the system. It put pressure into the system, while the car is still and not running and you can see where the coolant is coming out.|||You could be overfilling it, or your engine could be running hot. Take it to a honda dealer and ask them.|||I had that problem with my Accord 1996 and I used to go to the Dealerthip also to get original replacements. Well, I changed the radiator itself (it is a plastic radiator) because it leaked, and I had also changed a switch that activates the fan, I think it is a thermostate, because if it is not working well fans just work to slow and dont cool enough.
Other important part is the clutch of the fan.
You really have to open the hood and look for a leak, you need to know where the steam comes. If it comes from the radiator cap means you have no leak but think to change the switches that activate the fans, you can see if the fan is slower that usually.
Sincerely I hope you can find it out this problem, dont let your car overheat. Luck my friend.
Pd. No ofense but consider replacing your car, I am also considering replacing my Accordo 1996 because I have had a lot of problems with it, these cars are very good when new, but after some years replacement parts are hard to find and the dealerships just work without honest and efficient diagnostics.|||first problem you went to the dealership they over charge for less work i recommend going to a smaller shop family owned tell them your problem and recommend to them to have the car pressure tested which will tell you where its leaking from, or it could be from the timing belt job so you might want to go back to them but i wouldnt pay a dime for them to check there work.
ps i own my own auto repair.|||Okay, I guess you%26#039;ve checked the thermostat and also checked the fans by now to see that they%26#039;re actually still hooked up and haven%26#039;t had a wire pulled off from the sensor switch. That sort of thing happens now and then when pople have been working under the hood.
It SOUNDS like the cylinder head or gasket. The car%26#039;s running and coolant loss symptoms you%26#039;ve described match up perfectly. BUT, you say the oil is clean, which is so definitive that it almost rules out the head.
Could be a partially blocked radiator core, yes. But if the flow looks good I%26#039;d doubt it. You can get it flow tested if you like. Good garages have the gadgets to do it. It%26#039;s also possible that the reserve tank has a crack in it. Very rare but possible.
One last possibility comes to mind. I hate to suggest it but there is a slight chance that it%26#039;s an external, hairline crack in the engine block. In that case, the oil will still run clean but you%26#039;ll lose coolant. One of my friends had it happen on a racing buggy and it drove them nuts until they asked my Dad and he found it.
(These sorts of cracks are usually a result of having the engine really hot then going through water -- like a deep puddle. It%26#039;s possible to %26#039;shock%26#039; the block and crck it. It%26#039;s something like putting a hot jar in cold water. Not as dramatic, of course, but the varying rates of expansion can cause a fracture in the metal.)
Hope that%26#039;s not it the block because it%26#039;s a major repair job, but thought I%26#039;d better suggest it in case everyone else%26#039;s ideas draw a blank.
Lenky.|||there are lots of places that can leak coolant. check closely around all of the hoses, including the heater and bypass hoses; if your car has over 100k miles a radiator is likely, and can be diagnosed simply by the location of the leaked coolant. atf hoses cannot leak coolant, only atf fluid. have a tech put a pressure testing device on your car and look around, leaks are usually easy enough to find. good luck
Changing the radiator coolant on a 99 Ford Expedition, is there a drain? ?
I know Detroit skipped putting a drain petcock on the radiator of many cars and trucks. If mine has a drain I would do the coolant change myself, if I have to pull a hose, I will pay a shop to do it (and change that hose!|||I would unhook the lower hose put a water hose in it start the car let the water run in the lower hose Through the motor back out te lower radiator until it is clean than place new hoses on the top and bottom put in new coolant and save 200.bucks but that is me|||I would just replace the hoses, it is 9 years old and it is not very complicated to replace the hoses.
How much should it cost to replace the radiator hoses on a 1999 Mercury Mystique?
My mechanic says that all the coolant hoses need to be changed but I don%26#039;t want to be overcharged. If anyone has had any experience with this I would much appreciate your advice. Thank you!|||If you did it yourself probably around 20-30 dollars for parts. A mechanic will probably charge an hour labor and a fee for disposing of the old antifreeze.|||First off ,are there any leaks evident? if not he maybe taking you for a ride .Its seldom that all the hoses fail at the same time ,although some will replace em all at the same time as a matter of course.Typical costs will range from $15-20 per upper and lower hoses .Is he talking about replacing the heater hoses as well? add another $20 or so ...these prices do not reflect labor nor other materials like antifreeze that will be needed to be replaced as well.Worst case I wouldnt expect to pay someone else to do the job for more than $150-200 for the job.
After how many miles must you change the radiator hoses on a 2001 ford expedition 5.4...?
i have 110 miles on me engine already %26amp; my radiator hoses have no defects (leaks etc.)|||Miles don%26#039;t matter as much to hoses as the age does.
That said, the hose manufacturers say every 4 years....which realistically means you can double or triple that number and be safe.
I have a 99 Tahoe with 130k and it%26#039;s 10 years old (build 2/98) and all the hoses are original. Still look and feel fine.
Your mileage may vary, but hoses really do last a long time. |||110 miles isn%26#039;t very many
hoses are to be replaced as needed, not a a predetermined interval.|||When they start to swell and weaken. The next time you drive the truck look at the hoses see if they are swollen if so grab the hose at that point and see if you can easily squeeze them.
That said, the hose manufacturers say every 4 years....which realistically means you can double or triple that number and be safe.
I have a 99 Tahoe with 130k and it%26#039;s 10 years old (build 2/98) and all the hoses are original. Still look and feel fine.
Your mileage may vary, but hoses really do last a long time. |||110 miles isn%26#039;t very many
hoses are to be replaced as needed, not a a predetermined interval.|||When they start to swell and weaken. The next time you drive the truck look at the hoses see if they are swollen if so grab the hose at that point and see if you can easily squeeze them.
Changed radiator, hoses and thermostate on deville 4.9L. It lets off alot of heat from engine. Should i worry.?
depends on what you call %26quot;alot%26quot; of heat if your gauge is toward red then your probably running hot if you just feel heat when its running under the hood its probably normal but if its the gauge you may either have
A.The wrong temp thermostat or a dud one
B. A bad water pump.
C A faulty gauge
Good luck|||If ur gauge doesn%26#039;t indicate excessive heat,%26amp; u don%26#039;t experience boiling %26amp; aren%26#039;t losing coolant,then most likely u r ok,it is just the hot weather,%26amp; I%26#039;m assuming u got a new pressure cap with a new rad.|||Did you Boil/Flush Out the Cooling System? Is it still Overheating?
A.The wrong temp thermostat or a dud one
B. A bad water pump.
C A faulty gauge
Good luck|||If ur gauge doesn%26#039;t indicate excessive heat,%26amp; u don%26#039;t experience boiling %26amp; aren%26#039;t losing coolant,then most likely u r ok,it is just the hot weather,%26amp; I%26#039;m assuming u got a new pressure cap with a new rad.|||Did you Boil/Flush Out the Cooling System? Is it still Overheating?
How to change upper and lower Radiator Hoses on a 2006 Ford Taurus SE 6 Cylinder?
changing the upper one is pretty easy but the lower one is a little bit of a pain/ i usually remove coolant lines at rad base for the trans/unhook the hoses upper and lower at rad/ remove top cover and disconnect rad and pull out from top/ catch all old freexe and discard properly/ then remove hoses from block top and bottom and reassemble/ usually i replace t/stat at the same time/when rad is in w lower hose attached i usally fill block up w/ a/freeze at t/stat/ i then install stat and hose and then attach hose and fill rad/ with coolant in block it gives a head start on bleeding system
My radiator hoses keep popping off. I changed the thermostat and clamps. What else could be the problem?
I had to replace my radiator about a year ago, and have been having problems ever since.|||New or Junk Yard Radiator? Radiator Inlet %26amp; Out let Pipes mat be Damaged, Areas where Hoses connect at Engine may need to be replaced, Block Cooling System may need to be Boiled/Flushed out %26quot;Overheating %26amp; High Pressures%26quot;
Possible to disconnect radiator hose in front while oil changing on a '94 Ford Ranger?
I had my oil changed on my %26#039;94 Ford Ranger and when I got it back, the radiator hose was disconnected. It resulted in me needing to purchase another radiator. When I called them and told them they disconnected the radiator hose, they said it wasn%26#039;t possible. Is it possible?|||Well if you went to a shop and had it done most likely they probably were messing with things they shouldn%26#039;t have. If it was working fine with no leaks or overheating before the oil change, and by the time you got home you lost the coolant, I would say the shop is to blame. Well the shop is wrong it is possible to disconnect a radiator hose when doing an oil change if they have some dishonest employees working for them.
Changing oil has nothing to do with touching any radiator related items.
If I were you I wouldn%26#039;t go back to that shop either. A friend of mine went to Jiffy Lube once, and they didn%26#039;t put any oil back in the engine, you can imagine the outcome of that.|||Anything is possible.|||Did you go to one of those quick oil change places? Sounds like you got scammed. Someone touched that radiator hose, there%26#039;s no reason for it. Had to be done on purpose.
Just my opinion.|||I have a 94 ranger with the little 4 cylinder.It is impossible to disconnect the hose if your changing oil...
Changing oil has nothing to do with touching any radiator related items.
If I were you I wouldn%26#039;t go back to that shop either. A friend of mine went to Jiffy Lube once, and they didn%26#039;t put any oil back in the engine, you can imagine the outcome of that.|||Anything is possible.|||Did you go to one of those quick oil change places? Sounds like you got scammed. Someone touched that radiator hose, there%26#039;s no reason for it. Had to be done on purpose.
Just my opinion.|||I have a 94 ranger with the little 4 cylinder.It is impossible to disconnect the hose if your changing oil...
How do I know the water pump in my 85 olds is not working ? Have changed the radiator & hoses and still leaks?
Here is how you check, start your car and have the radiator cap off, make sure the coolant level is full..... after the car warms up and the thermostat open you should see the coolant flowng through the radiator.... if the coolant dosent move at all, either your waterpump is bad or the thermostat is tuck closed, if your car overheats then the thermostat is stuck closed, if it dosent overheat than the waterpump is bad.|||make sure the fan belt is spinning the water pump.|||if the car overheats ?|||Water will leak out of the bottom of a water pump thru what is call a weap hole.Take a flashlight crawl under the water pump area an see if you see water leaking from the underside of the pump..Do this with the engine off of course
Are there any pitfalls to avoid when changing your own radiator hose?
Don%26#039;t forget to put the clamps back on... on both ends.
Let the engine be cooled-down before starting.
Remember to fill the radiator back up when finished.|||Yeah, make sure the coolant is cool. Just kidding, don%26#039;t pull on the old hoses, cut them and peel them off.|||There shouldn%26#039;t be any problems.This is a simple job.Check radiator fluid level when finished.|||Make sure that youcatch all the old coolant. It%26#039;s poison to any animals that might drink it, against the law to allow into the sewer system, and probably reuseable. Aside from that, wait until the engine is cool before you attempt any hose repairs.|||make sure engine is cool, catch all old antifreeze,make sure hoses are on good and tight . make sure you use new clamps. start engine after you have filled engine with radiator fluid mixture of prob 50/50 let cool recheck top off the coolant and also dont forget to put your old used hoses in trunk in case out on road and new hoses break
Let the engine be cooled-down before starting.
Remember to fill the radiator back up when finished.|||Yeah, make sure the coolant is cool. Just kidding, don%26#039;t pull on the old hoses, cut them and peel them off.|||There shouldn%26#039;t be any problems.This is a simple job.Check radiator fluid level when finished.|||Make sure that youcatch all the old coolant. It%26#039;s poison to any animals that might drink it, against the law to allow into the sewer system, and probably reuseable. Aside from that, wait until the engine is cool before you attempt any hose repairs.|||make sure engine is cool, catch all old antifreeze,make sure hoses are on good and tight . make sure you use new clamps. start engine after you have filled engine with radiator fluid mixture of prob 50/50 let cool recheck top off the coolant and also dont forget to put your old used hoses in trunk in case out on road and new hoses break
1998 Chevy Venture Radiator Hoses are solid when the engine is on.?
Why are the radiator hoses are hot solid but it does not overheat. changed radiator cap with original delco
still same result. Fans come on with a/c on and heat works fine.Have only 26.000 original miles.|||WOW, only 26,000 miles on it.
Agree with above, the radiator cap you installed in conjunction with your thermostat allows a pressure to build up in the cooling system which raises the boiling point of water/coolant. That is why the hose feels hard because there is about 10-12PSI applied to the system to raise the boiling point. If you did not add pressure to your coolant system, it would start boiling at 75-85degreesF. If you did not raise the boiling point to a certain threshold, your coolant system will run hotter %26amp; boil off the water/ coolant.
That is why they tell you NOT to take off the radiator cap on a hot engine. Once you remove that pressure, you instantly lower the boiling point back to 75degrees so that 200 degree coolant will pretty much explode in your face instantly the pressure drops
Also, letting it sit like that is extremely hard on any vehicle. It is more stress on the vehicle than if you drove it every day %26amp; put 25,000 miles on it a year. I am suprised you don%26#039;t need any radiator hoses, seals %26amp; gaskets|||I%26#039;m not sure I understand your question. Your cooling system is a pressurized system and when the car is running once it has warmed up the hoses will become solid due to the expanding gases in the system.|||That is perfectly normal as you have a 15 PSI rad cap so the cooling system is pressurized to 15 PSI when the engine is warmed up. That is to raise the boiling point of the coolant.
still same result. Fans come on with a/c on and heat works fine.Have only 26.000 original miles.|||WOW, only 26,000 miles on it.
Agree with above, the radiator cap you installed in conjunction with your thermostat allows a pressure to build up in the cooling system which raises the boiling point of water/coolant. That is why the hose feels hard because there is about 10-12PSI applied to the system to raise the boiling point. If you did not add pressure to your coolant system, it would start boiling at 75-85degreesF. If you did not raise the boiling point to a certain threshold, your coolant system will run hotter %26amp; boil off the water/ coolant.
That is why they tell you NOT to take off the radiator cap on a hot engine. Once you remove that pressure, you instantly lower the boiling point back to 75degrees so that 200 degree coolant will pretty much explode in your face instantly the pressure drops
Also, letting it sit like that is extremely hard on any vehicle. It is more stress on the vehicle than if you drove it every day %26amp; put 25,000 miles on it a year. I am suprised you don%26#039;t need any radiator hoses, seals %26amp; gaskets|||I%26#039;m not sure I understand your question. Your cooling system is a pressurized system and when the car is running once it has warmed up the hoses will become solid due to the expanding gases in the system.|||That is perfectly normal as you have a 15 PSI rad cap so the cooling system is pressurized to 15 PSI when the engine is warmed up. That is to raise the boiling point of the coolant.
Price for changing a lower radiator hose on 98 GMC Sonoma?
I bought the hose and paid 40 dollars labor to have someone change it out, is this a typical price? Any input would be appreciated, thanks.|||you did ok on that one,that%26#039;s average for most shops now days, anything they do they,ll collect at least an hours labor for doing it,and most have a set rate,so that%26#039;s a good price on that one,good luck.|||your welcome.
|||It depends on who changed it for you. Most shop labor rate vary from $55 to $85 dollars per hour. To drain the cooling system, replace the hose and refill and test the system... yes, $40 dollars would be fair.|||That%26#039;s a good price, I know of places that charge 70 dollars a hour minimum for just labor. So even if you had to replace anti-freeze and all that on your own, you made out ok.|||I say that is really expensive to pay for something that take two minutes to do. Its to clamps remove the hose and replace it with the clamps|||the sonoma is not a truck I like to work on 40 bones is cheap you have a good deal.|||i would say that%26#039;s a great price,considering shop labor rates are more than that per hour|||that sounds a fair price.|||I don%26#039;t know|||sounds about right...thats an easy job u could of had a mechanicaly inclined friend to do it 4 free
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|||It depends on who changed it for you. Most shop labor rate vary from $55 to $85 dollars per hour. To drain the cooling system, replace the hose and refill and test the system... yes, $40 dollars would be fair.|||That%26#039;s a good price, I know of places that charge 70 dollars a hour minimum for just labor. So even if you had to replace anti-freeze and all that on your own, you made out ok.|||I say that is really expensive to pay for something that take two minutes to do. Its to clamps remove the hose and replace it with the clamps|||the sonoma is not a truck I like to work on 40 bones is cheap you have a good deal.|||i would say that%26#039;s a great price,considering shop labor rates are more than that per hour|||that sounds a fair price.|||I don%26#039;t know|||sounds about right...thats an easy job u could of had a mechanicaly inclined friend to do it 4 free
I have a 94 chevy silverado I had my radiator changed and flushed it my hoses seem to be bulging whats goin on
I had the radiator changed and the hoses are still good, It doesnt seem like a blown head because im not losing coolent, my truck hasnt overheated is it still safe to drive?|||old hoses
bad thermostat
take your pick|||The hoses could be getting weak. For what you spent all ready you might as well replace the hoses.
bad thermostat
take your pick|||The hoses could be getting weak. For what you spent all ready you might as well replace the hoses.
Is it easy to crack the radiator when changing the hoses?
I have a 2005 chevy aveo that broke down last week. I was 2 hours from home so I just got towed to a shop and they found a hole in the upper hose. They just did a temporary fix by cutting the hose and clamping it on. They told me I needed to get it looked at when I got home. I took it to my normal mechanic last week and they ordered an upper hose, lower hose, and heater hose. They charged me $162.27 for the parts and labor. The parts came in today and I took it in to be fixed. An hour later my mechanic called me and said that when they were pulling off the upper hose part of the radiator broke off because it was too brittle. He told me it would cost $275 for the part and $60 to put it in. Is this something that could easily happen or did they do something to break it accidentally? This is not the first time they broke something. Last week the timing belt tensioner cracked when they were changing the timing belt and they said it was because the metal was weak. Does it seem like my mechanic is ripping me off or are these legitimate problems?|||OK, first of all, let%26#039;s address all these people here who think the radiator hose neck is made of metal (solder? rust?). Is it? Really? Because most cars haven%26#039;t used metal for that part in about 30 years now. The tanks are made of plastic, and they crack all the time, even just from normal use. Call up any radiator shop and ask.
Of course they%26#039;re also prone to cracking if someone tries to pull the hose off by simply pulling and twisting, without loosening it first. The act of shortening and refastening the hose could also cause this, as there is more tension on the hose, and engine vibration is magnified. If it was OK for the hose to be that short, they would have made it that short in the first place!
Bottom line is, it%26#039;s entirely possible that not even any of the people who have worked on it know for sure when it cracked and what caused it. What are the odds that people who don%26#039;t even know what kind of material that part of the radiator is made of would know?
As far as the tensioner, it%26#039;s normally recommended to replace those every time the belt is replaced. If your shop made any mistake in regards to the that, it was in not telling you it should be replaced as standard operating procedure for a timing belt change.|||I can understand the radiator crack ( I think it is plastic and aluminum) but the tensioner sounds a little fishy, I would get a second opinion next time.|||$#it happens when your working on cars.who knows the person who took the hose off the first time could of cracked it.|||5 years isnt long enough to rust out a radiator lip, unless you use salt water in it, there ripping you off
if this is the second time screwing up on your car they should credit you on some labor|||Yep you got ripped off twice. A good mechanic will cut the hose off instead of trying to pull it off.
My son worked at a wrecking yard %26amp; that is what they always did.|||that radiator is plastic and the spouts crack/break off about 1/3 of the time.........so entirely reasonable.....
as for timing tensioner on that car shouldn%26#039;t have a problem but they are supposed to b checked and replaces as necessary when timing belt is replaced......so again possible...
EDIT: at the ppl saying the radiator shouldn%26#039;t have cracked because they should have cut hose ....that is what junkyards do when selling used radiators.....which sets u up for radiator failure down the road....if radiator will not hold up to pulling hose off it WILL leave u stranded on side of road later.........yes u can cut them off but should pull off......also said hose was cut and clamped back on ...i suspect that cracked the plastic radiator........especially if the person overtightened the clamp|||if the hose is stuck on the neck tight then yanking on it can make the neck leak. i recon that,s too much. all they have to do is solder the neck back on and put the hose back on.|||RIP OFF.
A 2005 should NOT have wear bad enough for metal parts to crack accidentally or break off. That%26#039;s INSANE. Find a lawyer and a new mechanic.
Of course they%26#039;re also prone to cracking if someone tries to pull the hose off by simply pulling and twisting, without loosening it first. The act of shortening and refastening the hose could also cause this, as there is more tension on the hose, and engine vibration is magnified. If it was OK for the hose to be that short, they would have made it that short in the first place!
Bottom line is, it%26#039;s entirely possible that not even any of the people who have worked on it know for sure when it cracked and what caused it. What are the odds that people who don%26#039;t even know what kind of material that part of the radiator is made of would know?
As far as the tensioner, it%26#039;s normally recommended to replace those every time the belt is replaced. If your shop made any mistake in regards to the that, it was in not telling you it should be replaced as standard operating procedure for a timing belt change.|||I can understand the radiator crack ( I think it is plastic and aluminum) but the tensioner sounds a little fishy, I would get a second opinion next time.|||$#it happens when your working on cars.who knows the person who took the hose off the first time could of cracked it.|||5 years isnt long enough to rust out a radiator lip, unless you use salt water in it, there ripping you off
if this is the second time screwing up on your car they should credit you on some labor|||Yep you got ripped off twice. A good mechanic will cut the hose off instead of trying to pull it off.
My son worked at a wrecking yard %26amp; that is what they always did.|||that radiator is plastic and the spouts crack/break off about 1/3 of the time.........so entirely reasonable.....
as for timing tensioner on that car shouldn%26#039;t have a problem but they are supposed to b checked and replaces as necessary when timing belt is replaced......so again possible...
EDIT: at the ppl saying the radiator shouldn%26#039;t have cracked because they should have cut hose ....that is what junkyards do when selling used radiators.....which sets u up for radiator failure down the road....if radiator will not hold up to pulling hose off it WILL leave u stranded on side of road later.........yes u can cut them off but should pull off......also said hose was cut and clamped back on ...i suspect that cracked the plastic radiator........especially if the person overtightened the clamp|||if the hose is stuck on the neck tight then yanking on it can make the neck leak. i recon that,s too much. all they have to do is solder the neck back on and put the hose back on.|||RIP OFF.
A 2005 should NOT have wear bad enough for metal parts to crack accidentally or break off. That%26#039;s INSANE. Find a lawyer and a new mechanic.
Does anyone know where I can get the reinforced silicone upper/lower radiator hoses for my Infiniti Fx35?
Has anyone changed their radiator hose to a reinforced silicone hose on their FX and where is the best place place to buy them from.
Any products less expensive than the Samco ones would be great..Thanx alot|||The Dealer or even eBay|||Hello Dealer|||you can go to kragen, auto zone, or to your local dealer to purchase it.|||Pep Boys, Autozone.
Any products less expensive than the Samco ones would be great..Thanx alot|||The Dealer or even eBay|||Hello Dealer|||you can go to kragen, auto zone, or to your local dealer to purchase it.|||Pep Boys, Autozone.
Overheating more slowly after thermostat, radiator hose change, and radiator flush...Whats the deal?
Alright, 1997 Chrysler Concorde. Took off the radiator and flushed it, changed both upper and lower radiator hoses. At the time, I figured I would see if I could also flush the flow of water through the engine. I stuck a hose in the thermostat housing and it flowed through...So I took it off to change the thermostat, and someone had removed it totally. So I put a new thermostat, new thermostat housing, both radiator hoses, and flushed the radiator. The coolant reservoir isn%26#039;t leaking, but the cap is. However, it is still overheating, just not as quickly. The water pump is working, the top hose gets hot. I am thinking there is a possible clog in the return line from the reservoir to the engine/radiator, but does anyone else have any ideas? After changing everything (also new coolant, 1gal concentrated, rest water) it idled for a while, but the coolant bottle never dropped the level. It stayed full completely. Any ideas?|||You could have air in your cooling system and make sure that the thermostat you change has the right temperature. Also make sure that your fan works.|||Hopefully you don%26#039;t have a warped or cracked head, Be sure the cooling fan is working , It bothers me that the thermostat was gone when you checked it ! Hopefully you did not just buy it ? That is an old used car salesman trick to unload a junker !!!!!!|||Sounds like the thermostat isn%26#039;t opening up. Once I changed my coolant fluid and put in 100 %. My car would heat up slowly but eventually overheat. I then learned that coolant doesn%26#039;t dissipate heat and it needs 50% water to get rid of the heat build up.|||You stated that the reservoir isn%26#039;t leaking but the cap is. If the cap is leaking then change it. If the coolant system doesn%26#039;t reach the right pressure then it will not cool properly. Also try checking to see if the fan is coming on when it is supposed to. I hope this helps. Good luck.|||try running a total cooling system cleaner through radiator and the engine block. see how much gunk comes out.
How hard is it to change the radiator hoses on 2000 ford focus wagon?
I%26#039;m not sure which hose it is because there are two I hear and I need to find and replace it myself for as little money as possible. Is a kit what I need? Replacing both at once? This car is my home now and am using a friends pc.|||Im sure that someone with a bit of experience can lift the lid ,glance in and tell you exactly where it is leaking from.It could be the pump gland ,top or bottom hoses ,the heater hoses or valve.The hoses are not always straight,they can be curved into various shapes and it is fairly common for the ends to be of a different diameter .how ever ,replacing the faulty hose is just a minor ten minute job.I find it very sad that any countries social security system does not help or allows anyone to live in a car
Change hoses when changing radiator? or not?
i changed my radiatore at 95,000 miles
however i never changed my hoses attached
mechanic said there still good
so still change or no??|||Give them a visual inspection. look for any splitting or cracking. See if there is any streaking or glazing. Glazing is when the hose appears shiny. Squeeze the hose to see if it is flex-able. A good hose should not give easily. If any of these is apparent replace them. If the mechanic says they are still good they probably are. There is nothing to say how long a hose lasts. Some go bad, some last longer than the vehicle. If you want to spend the money, replace them. If not and they are fine, don%26#039;t.|||They are probably fine.|||If it were my car, I would change the hoses.|||They deteriorate from the inside out. If they%26#039;re over six years old I%26#039;d change them.|||change them. Its better for the car and they are not expensive. The mechanic can use the %26quot;still good%26quot; rejects to patch up some body elses damaged hose connection.
Yes they are %26quot;still good%26quot; but if you asked, then you can afford to replace something inexpensive and you want a thorough/complete job after buying the expensive radiator.
Whats his problem.
however i never changed my hoses attached
mechanic said there still good
so still change or no??|||Give them a visual inspection. look for any splitting or cracking. See if there is any streaking or glazing. Glazing is when the hose appears shiny. Squeeze the hose to see if it is flex-able. A good hose should not give easily. If any of these is apparent replace them. If the mechanic says they are still good they probably are. There is nothing to say how long a hose lasts. Some go bad, some last longer than the vehicle. If you want to spend the money, replace them. If not and they are fine, don%26#039;t.|||They are probably fine.|||If it were my car, I would change the hoses.|||They deteriorate from the inside out. If they%26#039;re over six years old I%26#039;d change them.|||change them. Its better for the car and they are not expensive. The mechanic can use the %26quot;still good%26quot; rejects to patch up some body elses damaged hose connection.
Yes they are %26quot;still good%26quot; but if you asked, then you can afford to replace something inexpensive and you want a thorough/complete job after buying the expensive radiator.
Whats his problem.
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