Jeep Wrangler runs hot and leaks again. Everything has been changed, the radiator, water pump, fan clutch, hoses, and the engine flushed and cleaned. No water in oil and no smoke in the exhaust, so it's not the head. Can not find the leak. The pressure tests shows nothing. I add about a cup of water a day to the radiator. It is not running hot any longer, because I keep the radiator filled with water. Where is the leak?%26quot;
Where could a 2000 Jeep Wrangler Sport 4.0L be leaking from?
Have you tried a new radiator cap? Try blocking off the heater hoses and see if it goes away. A cup a day is a very small leak. If eliminating the heater and hoses and radiator cap doesn't do it, I'd suspect a very small head gasket leak. Something that small may not be detectable in the exhaust.
Where could a 2000 Jeep Wrangler Sport 4.0L be leaking from?
I can give you a couple of suggestions;
Pressure test the cap. Sometimes this item gets overlooked and the cap is releasing the coolant in the form of steam.
Also the water pump seal could be going bad and only leaking when the pressure is high and escaping under the car while driving.
Also pressure test the entire cooling system hot and cold to see if you have an internal leak.
Tuesday, October 25, 2011
In Answer to Question on Oil Weight?
The reason I know it was 10w30 was because it was on receipt. I had asked them to use High Mileage 50W because that is what I have used for two years now. And I am very good about getting the oil changed withing the time limit suggested. I have always taken very good care of my car. It is a 1992 Mercury GM and has been in excellent condition with only 121,000 miles. I know that is a lot of mileage, but not for that old of a car. Anyway, I told the car repair shop exactly what it was doing, shouldn't they have been able to tell it was something other than a radiator hose ? And would going from a high mileage 50W oil to a 10W30 oil cause it to overheat ?
In Answer to Question on Oil Weight?
actually using thicker oil than whats called for by your owners manual is killing your engine.I'm surprised you haven't replaced an oil pump yet,or you simply omitted to mention that. the oil helps a little bit in cooling but its primary job is lubrication.if the hose has developed a leak or is getting old it will drip fluid out of the cooling system,and will cause your car to overheat.how old are the hoses? if their original,the hoses may be doing whats called %26quot;sweating%26quot; and losing the coolant through evaporation,which would leave no sign of dripping,but would still lower the coolant level,and the cooling systems effectiveness.
In Answer to Question on Oil Weight?
the engine use the oil not only for lubrication but, also for cooling purposes
the oil pump force the oil through the gallery in the engine.with pressure and Speed. (the thicker the oil ,the higher the pressure and lower the speed)
high viscosity oil is producing(by not removing it) more heat
because, the oil gallery restrict the oil speed and also modern engine depend a lot in oil speed.
when the speed of the oil in the engine gallery is too slow then hot spots form in the engine sub secuently warpage might overcome and burned oil (might turn rock) start clogging the gallery.
unfortunated,the clogging always start forming in the most need it areas of lubrication.
1992 Mercury GM? No doubt your car was designed to run on either 5W30 or 10W30. Who told you to run 50W oil? 121000 miles isnt high mileage if you take care of it but running 50W oil isnt helping it any. If its over heating it is probably caused by something else like maybe a stuck thermostat.
your question starts out oil and ends up overheating. YOU NOW NEED TO GET GOOD MECHANICAL HELP. Switching from 20/50 oil to 10/30 oil will not cause overheating. Might make more motor noise on start up. Get the thermostat and radator tested. then procede to more expensive things. Some of the Ford engines have plastic intake manifolds that crack around where the thermostat and top hose hooks up. Good luck %26quot;CARNAK SEES NEW CAR IN YOUR FUTURE%26quot;
no it wouldn't make it over heat. summer time you run a heavier oil weight because the heat will break the viscosity of the oil and damage your engine. winter time you use a lighter weight oil because it will make it a lot harder on the battery and starter turning the engine over to start.
In Answer to Question on Oil Weight?
actually using thicker oil than whats called for by your owners manual is killing your engine.I'm surprised you haven't replaced an oil pump yet,or you simply omitted to mention that. the oil helps a little bit in cooling but its primary job is lubrication.if the hose has developed a leak or is getting old it will drip fluid out of the cooling system,and will cause your car to overheat.how old are the hoses? if their original,the hoses may be doing whats called %26quot;sweating%26quot; and losing the coolant through evaporation,which would leave no sign of dripping,but would still lower the coolant level,and the cooling systems effectiveness.
In Answer to Question on Oil Weight?
the engine use the oil not only for lubrication but, also for cooling purposes
the oil pump force the oil through the gallery in the engine.with pressure and Speed. (the thicker the oil ,the higher the pressure and lower the speed)
high viscosity oil is producing(by not removing it) more heat
because, the oil gallery restrict the oil speed and also modern engine depend a lot in oil speed.
when the speed of the oil in the engine gallery is too slow then hot spots form in the engine sub secuently warpage might overcome and burned oil (might turn rock) start clogging the gallery.
unfortunated,the clogging always start forming in the most need it areas of lubrication.
1992 Mercury GM? No doubt your car was designed to run on either 5W30 or 10W30. Who told you to run 50W oil? 121000 miles isnt high mileage if you take care of it but running 50W oil isnt helping it any. If its over heating it is probably caused by something else like maybe a stuck thermostat.
your question starts out oil and ends up overheating. YOU NOW NEED TO GET GOOD MECHANICAL HELP. Switching from 20/50 oil to 10/30 oil will not cause overheating. Might make more motor noise on start up. Get the thermostat and radator tested. then procede to more expensive things. Some of the Ford engines have plastic intake manifolds that crack around where the thermostat and top hose hooks up. Good luck %26quot;CARNAK SEES NEW CAR IN YOUR FUTURE%26quot;
no it wouldn't make it over heat. summer time you run a heavier oil weight because the heat will break the viscosity of the oil and damage your engine. winter time you use a lighter weight oil because it will make it a lot harder on the battery and starter turning the engine over to start.
Chevrolet Lumina 1996: Why Low Coolant light stays on?
The Low Coolant light stays on althought I've already checked/re-filled the coolant tank and everything is working fine. The radiator is full and the hoses were recently changed, and the car has 184,000 miles but still runs great. Does anybody knows what's going on???
Chevrolet Lumina 1996: Why Low Coolant light stays on?
you have a piece of dirt in the coolant level sensor causing it to stick in the on position, it's located in your plastic overflow tank and all you have to do is get a rubber hammer and smack the side of the plastic tank a couple of times and this usually dislodges the dirt from the sensor.
Chevrolet Lumina 1996: Why Low Coolant light stays on?
you have a piece of dirt in the coolant level sensor causing it to stick in the on position, it's located in your plastic overflow tank and all you have to do is get a rubber hammer and smack the side of the plastic tank a couple of times and this usually dislodges the dirt from the sensor.
I've been told that i need a new timer, do I? and misfire in 1 that isn't constant, what do you think/
I have a 2000 Plymouth Neon 3 speed Automatic 2.0 whatever, and the fan almost never stops, when it does, it's for 10 seconds and starts up again. The air condition is great, but it sweats like crazy, I can see puddles accumulate under the car when it sits. I just changed the upper radiator hose and the car's running nice, like it got more power, the old hose was almost twice the size of the new one, the old one finally burst. Now there's a slight hissing out of the engine over by the belts where the hose busted. The Timing belt busted about 7 months ago and the mechanic says that one of the piston rings won't work right, nut that the car'll run. The check engine lights on and I checked it, misfire on one. It goes away and comes back sporadically. I've tried high octane gas, low ocatne, 5-30, 10-40 and 20-50 oil, synthetic, blend and regular, injector cleaners, but nothing keeps it from coming back. The longest the light stayed off was when I changed the plugs.
I've been told that i need a new timer, do I? and misfire in 1 that isn't constant, what do you think/
Use a ohm meter to check your sparkplug wire, or us a spark tester between the wire and plug. Sounds like bad wire or coil.
I've been told that i need a new timer, do I? and misfire in 1 that isn't constant, what do you think/
Use a ohm meter to check your sparkplug wire, or us a spark tester between the wire and plug. Sounds like bad wire or coil.
Will this hold untill I can repair it?
My car was leaking antifreeze and I changed the lower radiator hose because thats where it seemed to be coming from. After driving with the new hose the problem was still there. I came to find out that its the plastic lower radiator hose housing that has a hole in it. It seems to have only two small bolts that hold it on the block. I was thinking since I dont have the time right now to go find the part if I should remove it and try to just put gasket sealant inside to cover the hole or maybe some JB weld or something like that. Will it hold? is it safe and a good idea?
Will this hold untill I can repair it?
Plastic parts are very hard to patch/glue, save yourself the hassle and just buy a new part. You say you don't have time to find the part, do you have time to be broke down on the side of the road because you tried to do a cheap fix?
Will this hold untill I can repair it?
J.B. Weld may work if the area is clan and dry and you let it sit for 24 hours to dry before putting antifreeze back in.
The best bet would be just to find a new radiator at a junk yard.
to risky you could bust your motor , wait till you have the time to make a proper repair
a leak will only get worse.
Try a waterproof epoxy, quick dry
J-B weld takes 24 hours to cure
I am not sure where the problem is, sounds like a lower water neck type of thing, or part of the water pump.
Any way, I would be tempted to get a self drilling screw to run into it with a washer and sealer on it. I am not sure it would work due to the location and shape of the parts.
Just a patch of rubber with string wrapped around it might work too if bound tight.
If you wait longer. You risk overheating the engine then you will need those parts plus another engine and maybe a transmission. Fix it or leave the car at home %26amp; take the bus or get a ride.textbox funny pet name
Will this hold untill I can repair it?
Plastic parts are very hard to patch/glue, save yourself the hassle and just buy a new part. You say you don't have time to find the part, do you have time to be broke down on the side of the road because you tried to do a cheap fix?
Will this hold untill I can repair it?
J.B. Weld may work if the area is clan and dry and you let it sit for 24 hours to dry before putting antifreeze back in.
The best bet would be just to find a new radiator at a junk yard.
to risky you could bust your motor , wait till you have the time to make a proper repair
a leak will only get worse.
Try a waterproof epoxy, quick dry
J-B weld takes 24 hours to cure
I am not sure where the problem is, sounds like a lower water neck type of thing, or part of the water pump.
Any way, I would be tempted to get a self drilling screw to run into it with a washer and sealer on it. I am not sure it would work due to the location and shape of the parts.
Just a patch of rubber with string wrapped around it might work too if bound tight.
If you wait longer. You risk overheating the engine then you will need those parts plus another engine and maybe a transmission. Fix it or leave the car at home %26amp; take the bus or get a ride.
What is wrong with this car?
1996 mazda 626 lx automatic ok coming home from work it started acting like it wanted to die then the heat hand went to hot hot then it really started to die i pulled over opened the hood steaming of course then it quit the upper radiator hose was busted that is ok but the alternator bracket also broke why did it break and there is a belt also that was missing the one from the engine to alternator i think what is it called also if ya can help why did the bracket break and which belt is it also i just changed the lower radiator hose 2 weeks ago why is the hose busting for it is just a work car but it has been a good one does not want to get rid of it thanks in advance
What is wrong with this car?
i am sure the belt broke the alternator bracket. i don't know if your car has a separate belt for your alternator or not...the parts store can tell you that.
What is wrong with this car?
thermostat was stuck closed and could not handle the pressure
ok here's what may have happened,the alternator bracket broke(they just do that sometimes) taking out all the belts including the one that runs your water pump,when the pump quit working the car got hot very quickly and blew the hose,as far as your hose issues often when you fix one leak in an older cooling system it will seek out the next weakest spot to blow out,I would check to make sure you didn't blow the head gasket before you put too much money in this car
Alisha
The name of the part you are asking is called the alternator bracket and its designed to hold the alternator in place where it belongs.
In the old school cars the alternator is often held by two long bolts,the first one is the pivot bolt and the last one is the adjustment bolt which keeps the belt tension at the spot where its supposed to be to keep it tight.
Your car also needs this bracket to keep the belt tension constant,and while you are at it you would be better off having it towed to a reputable shop and ask them to repair everything that is broken and any missing parts that need to be replaced,don't forget the alternator bracket and tell them to order that part.
GOOD LUCK
sounds like the alt bracket broke and that caused the belt for fan to stop and made it overheat.
sounds like you have a canooter valve problem
bracket broke and caused the rest of the problems/should have changed all the hoses/make sure you change t/stat and probably w/pump/those w/pumps separate when they are o/heated
What is wrong with this car?
i am sure the belt broke the alternator bracket. i don't know if your car has a separate belt for your alternator or not...the parts store can tell you that.
What is wrong with this car?
thermostat was stuck closed and could not handle the pressure
ok here's what may have happened,the alternator bracket broke(they just do that sometimes) taking out all the belts including the one that runs your water pump,when the pump quit working the car got hot very quickly and blew the hose,as far as your hose issues often when you fix one leak in an older cooling system it will seek out the next weakest spot to blow out,I would check to make sure you didn't blow the head gasket before you put too much money in this car
Alisha
The name of the part you are asking is called the alternator bracket and its designed to hold the alternator in place where it belongs.
In the old school cars the alternator is often held by two long bolts,the first one is the pivot bolt and the last one is the adjustment bolt which keeps the belt tension at the spot where its supposed to be to keep it tight.
Your car also needs this bracket to keep the belt tension constant,and while you are at it you would be better off having it towed to a reputable shop and ask them to repair everything that is broken and any missing parts that need to be replaced,don't forget the alternator bracket and tell them to order that part.
GOOD LUCK
sounds like the alt bracket broke and that caused the belt for fan to stop and made it overheat.
sounds like you have a canooter valve problem
bracket broke and caused the rest of the problems/should have changed all the hoses/make sure you change t/stat and probably w/pump/those w/pumps separate when they are o/heated
Broken radiator part question?
i got a 95 suburban, my hubby was trying to change the oil and when he was reaching for the oil filter, he broke the part that you hook the hose to the radiator to. the part that sticks out from it. the part is plastic, and he tryed to use some kind of glue you mix then let it set for 30 min, then put it on what you want to glue. i was wondering if i will have to get a new radiator, or if it is a part i can buy to replace it with out having to buy a new radiator?
Broken radiator part question?
got to a junk yard and get a used one they are about 40 bucks
Broken radiator part question?
Due to the temperature extremes on these radiators,
the only real remedy is to get a different radiator.
There is just no glue you can use to repair a broken
neck as they just won't hold for long.
Other than a new one you might be able to find one
at a salvage yard. Those places have the interchange
books to know what other vehicles, and what years
would interchange with your model, so it adds to the
ability to find what you need.
There just isn't any special part that will repair, or
replace the broken piece other than a new top tank.
Some radiator shops can do that part, but the cost
would exceed what you would pay for a good one
from a salvage yard.
You'll need that side tank for your radiator or a complete radiator to fix it. Don't drive it as it is cause the cooling system has 15 psi %26amp; WILL leak from his patch.The good news is that a new radiator is less than $150.
from what you are describing it sounds like just the clamp on the hose. if thats it you can get a new, more durable, metal one at autozone for just a couple of dollars. if its just the clamp you should not have to replace the entire radiator. just go to autozone and buy a new one. should be a couple dollars and can be installed in just a couple of minutes
Broken radiator part question?
got to a junk yard and get a used one they are about 40 bucks
Broken radiator part question?
Due to the temperature extremes on these radiators,
the only real remedy is to get a different radiator.
There is just no glue you can use to repair a broken
neck as they just won't hold for long.
Other than a new one you might be able to find one
at a salvage yard. Those places have the interchange
books to know what other vehicles, and what years
would interchange with your model, so it adds to the
ability to find what you need.
There just isn't any special part that will repair, or
replace the broken piece other than a new top tank.
Some radiator shops can do that part, but the cost
would exceed what you would pay for a good one
from a salvage yard.
You'll need that side tank for your radiator or a complete radiator to fix it. Don't drive it as it is cause the cooling system has 15 psi %26amp; WILL leak from his patch.The good news is that a new radiator is less than $150.
from what you are describing it sounds like just the clamp on the hose. if thats it you can get a new, more durable, metal one at autozone for just a couple of dollars. if its just the clamp you should not have to replace the entire radiator. just go to autozone and buy a new one. should be a couple dollars and can be installed in just a couple of minutes
'97 Ford Contour overheating; no pressure in cooling system. Water pump gone bad?
I have a '97 Ford Contour GL (2.0L 4-Cyl) that's been having problems with overheating. I changed the thermostat, drained and backflushed both the radiator and heater core (no signs of any blockage) and after hooking everything back up, it actually overheats even faster than before. Reservoir is filled to the max and the system just won't burp/bleed. Pressure on the lower hose seems low as does pressure on the heater inlet/outlet hoses. There doesn't seem to be *any* pressure in the upper radiator hose, but it does get hot... from steam. I noticed this after pulling the hose off a good 20 minutes after it last overheated. The hose was bone dry. I tested the thermostat by boiling it in a pot of water and it opens and closes just fine. Engine seems to run strong and sound fine, but there is some grayish (with a tinge of brown) smoke that comes from the exhaust when I rev it up to about 3k RPMs. Maybe the beginnings of a leaking head gasket as well? Help! :)
'97 Ford Contour overheating; no pressure in cooling system. Water pump gone bad?
On the 2.0, I've had radiators flow but not enough to keep the engine from overheating.
Also to bleed the system, fill it up leave the radiator cap off , start the engine and run with the heater on max vent. It should burp fluid and air before it finally sucks it down hard one good time, then the top radiator hose should be hot and refill the jug and retighten the radiator cap and check to make sure the heater is putting out real hot.
Also one or two have had bad impellers on the water pump but usually that was a problem on 2.5 v-6s
'97 Ford Contour overheating; no pressure in cooling system. Water pump gone bad?
How hot? THose things had issues where the guage as long as it was in the normal range it was considered ok...
I have seen LOTS of those cars with gauges indicating HOT. Another place those cars were notorious for coolant leaks, was from the engine block heater. You would need to have the car on a lift to see this, because it's under the intake manifold, on the FIREWALL side of the engine.
Just a thought...I own a British Mondeo, basically a Contour, and had similar problems, in the end it turned out to be the plastic impeller in the water pump had broken. Apparently they are prone to getting hairline cracks in them and eventually fail. Hope you get it sorted!
it could be the water pump,or it could be a bad rad.cap,not holding enough pressure.do you got anti-freeze in your oil,if so then theres your answer,you blown a head gasket.also after you warm it up,turn it off and see if theres any cold spots on the rad.if there are any cold spots then the rad. is clogged up someplace.
mine overheats because the radiator fan doesn't come on - it only overheats when i am in traffic or not moving, when it does get to 220 or so I turn on the heat full blast and that cools it down to 150 degrees - i am going to run it like that with the heater keeping it cool until next spring when i wont need the heater and it will be better weather for car work
it must be the water pump
Well, you did a lot of good things, but there is something wrong with your pressure cap. It is what controls the pressure in your system, unless you have a leak some where. It could also be the reason for your overheating, because after it gets hot it will simply blow the water out of your cap. Cars are made to run at or near the boiling point. The radiator cap keeps the super heated water in the system. Cars need high temperature to help in burning the fuel completely. It is normal for you car to get a few degrees hotter than your thermostat setting. You just got to get a cap and check the neck of the radiator. You gotta hold that pressure.
You backflushed your radiator. That process takes all the sediment in your lower tank and pushes it lnto the coolant passages in the radiator. Thus you have increased the problem and it overheats faster, as you stated. Is your thermostst in correctly ? I have seen them installed upside down.
Try this---Remove the radiator cap, when cool, Fill the system, start engine and let idle till thermostst opens. You will see circulation in radiator if thermostst opens. Turn off engine and feel the radiator core for spots of lower temp. If you find %26quot;cool%26quot; spots you need your radiator cleaned at a radiator shop. No amount of flushing will fix it.
I would not venture a guess on your exhaust problem without seeing it.
NEVER repeat NEVER change any part until the problem is found.
Old mechanics proverb.
It could be the head gasket but did you change the radiator cap? The closed system cooling systems will over heat if there is any leakage what so ever! Check it close and try a new cap! You can check the water pump by opening the radiator cap while engine is cold and let it warm up with the cap off. When the thermostat opens you should see water flow. If you do and you see small bubbles then you have a head gasket or intake problem.
it could be you radiator or yes the pump. its a ford the rings could be going! they always do! check you oil for white or any evidence of antifreeze.
maybe a head gasket, when you buy those cheap thermostats at advance or autozone or somewhere its good to drop it in a bowl of boiling water to test it before you install them, ive bought several only to have to take them out and put a new one in
'97 Ford Contour overheating; no pressure in cooling system. Water pump gone bad?
On the 2.0, I've had radiators flow but not enough to keep the engine from overheating.
Also to bleed the system, fill it up leave the radiator cap off , start the engine and run with the heater on max vent. It should burp fluid and air before it finally sucks it down hard one good time, then the top radiator hose should be hot and refill the jug and retighten the radiator cap and check to make sure the heater is putting out real hot.
Also one or two have had bad impellers on the water pump but usually that was a problem on 2.5 v-6s
'97 Ford Contour overheating; no pressure in cooling system. Water pump gone bad?
How hot? THose things had issues where the guage as long as it was in the normal range it was considered ok...
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I have seen LOTS of those cars with gauges indicating HOT. Another place those cars were notorious for coolant leaks, was from the engine block heater. You would need to have the car on a lift to see this, because it's under the intake manifold, on the FIREWALL side of the engine.
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Just a thought...I own a British Mondeo, basically a Contour, and had similar problems, in the end it turned out to be the plastic impeller in the water pump had broken. Apparently they are prone to getting hairline cracks in them and eventually fail. Hope you get it sorted!
it could be the water pump,or it could be a bad rad.cap,not holding enough pressure.do you got anti-freeze in your oil,if so then theres your answer,you blown a head gasket.also after you warm it up,turn it off and see if theres any cold spots on the rad.if there are any cold spots then the rad. is clogged up someplace.
mine overheats because the radiator fan doesn't come on - it only overheats when i am in traffic or not moving, when it does get to 220 or so I turn on the heat full blast and that cools it down to 150 degrees - i am going to run it like that with the heater keeping it cool until next spring when i wont need the heater and it will be better weather for car work
it must be the water pump
Well, you did a lot of good things, but there is something wrong with your pressure cap. It is what controls the pressure in your system, unless you have a leak some where. It could also be the reason for your overheating, because after it gets hot it will simply blow the water out of your cap. Cars are made to run at or near the boiling point. The radiator cap keeps the super heated water in the system. Cars need high temperature to help in burning the fuel completely. It is normal for you car to get a few degrees hotter than your thermostat setting. You just got to get a cap and check the neck of the radiator. You gotta hold that pressure.
You backflushed your radiator. That process takes all the sediment in your lower tank and pushes it lnto the coolant passages in the radiator. Thus you have increased the problem and it overheats faster, as you stated. Is your thermostst in correctly ? I have seen them installed upside down.
Try this---Remove the radiator cap, when cool, Fill the system, start engine and let idle till thermostst opens. You will see circulation in radiator if thermostst opens. Turn off engine and feel the radiator core for spots of lower temp. If you find %26quot;cool%26quot; spots you need your radiator cleaned at a radiator shop. No amount of flushing will fix it.
I would not venture a guess on your exhaust problem without seeing it.
NEVER repeat NEVER change any part until the problem is found.
Old mechanics proverb.
It could be the head gasket but did you change the radiator cap? The closed system cooling systems will over heat if there is any leakage what so ever! Check it close and try a new cap! You can check the water pump by opening the radiator cap while engine is cold and let it warm up with the cap off. When the thermostat opens you should see water flow. If you do and you see small bubbles then you have a head gasket or intake problem.
it could be you radiator or yes the pump. its a ford the rings could be going! they always do! check you oil for white or any evidence of antifreeze.
maybe a head gasket, when you buy those cheap thermostats at advance or autozone or somewhere its good to drop it in a bowl of boiling water to test it before you install them, ive bought several only to have to take them out and put a new one in
Car temperature lights comes on?
I changed the thermostat and the water pump and all of the radiator hoses .
I hear a hissing sound behind the alternator, could it be the radiator or what is it I think monday Its going to a shop if I have to
Car temperature lights comes on?
Until it is properly pressure tested and cooling fans checked, my guess is as good as anybodies as to why it's getting hot. Year, make and model (engine size is good) would help. Some engines need to be bled properly before they cool properly.
I hear a hissing sound behind the alternator, could it be the radiator or what is it I think monday Its going to a shop if I have to
Car temperature lights comes on?
Until it is properly pressure tested and cooling fans checked, my guess is as good as anybodies as to why it's getting hot. Year, make and model (engine size is good) would help. Some engines need to be bled properly before they cool properly.
I've got an '89 1.8, Subaru Gl. Is there any way I can test the radiator to see if it's good?
All is working well, but it over heats on hot days and going up hill. I've changed the thermostat and flushed the system. The hoses all look good. Any ideas?
I've got an '89 1.8, Subaru Gl. Is there any way I can test the radiator to see if it's good?
The cooling system on your particular model ('85-'93) was marginal at best when new, and easily plugs up over the miles and if the engine overheats the heads can crack easily too.
The first thing I would recommend is to undo the exhaust 'Y' pipe bolts, pull down the 'Y' pipe and examine the exhaust ports to see if any coolant or coolant tracking (yellowish-green lines) are visible in either port. If so, the head or heads are cracked.
If nothing looks out of the ordinary then I would consider myself very lucky and replace the radiator outright. They are not expensive and are not worth flushing or rebuilding.dapple dachshunds for sale into drilling for oil
I've got an '89 1.8, Subaru Gl. Is there any way I can test the radiator to see if it's good?
The cooling system on your particular model ('85-'93) was marginal at best when new, and easily plugs up over the miles and if the engine overheats the heads can crack easily too.
The first thing I would recommend is to undo the exhaust 'Y' pipe bolts, pull down the 'Y' pipe and examine the exhaust ports to see if any coolant or coolant tracking (yellowish-green lines) are visible in either port. If so, the head or heads are cracked.
If nothing looks out of the ordinary then I would consider myself very lucky and replace the radiator outright. They are not expensive and are not worth flushing or rebuilding.
Oil idiot light coming on at hot idle?
1999 dodge caravan 3.3l 137000 miles just started 2 days ago the light comes on only while hot and idling in gear at a stoplight or in the FREAKIN construction zone when the interstate is like a parking lot. Changed oil and filter same result. Where is oil sending unit? Is it next to the oil filter on left by lower radiator hose? I will change this before accepting that another major repair is needed on this American made piece of crap NEVER NEVER buy a dodge
Oil idiot light coming on at hot idle?
Some Chrysler cars have a problem with the sending unit wire, if you have a one wire connector, you may need a connector that has two wires, the extra wire lets the atmospheric pressure equalize. I just had a Intrepid that did the same thing as your car.The breather on the one wire connector was clogged with dirt. There is a service bulletin, And I got a new connector wire from my local dealer, it fixed the problem. I don't know if it applies to your car or not, and I don't know what your actual oil pressure is, but if the engine is in good shape and not knocking or making noise, it may fix it. Call your local Dodge dealer and tell them what your car is doing, and ask about a bulletin.
Oil idiot light coming on at hot idle?
I love dodge. MOPAR goes far
go to a oil change place and get them to take the light off
easy now...you got 137k on it and it's still running...so not a piece of crap. most likely your oil sending unit is leaking. It is located next to the oil filter. simply crawl under the car and look at the sending uinit...you will most likely see oil on it. replace it and you will be fine.
Had a eagle vision...same as a dodge intrepid...and it had the same problem...changed the sending unit and fixed the problem.
Look around you and see how many of these vehicles are on the road...then can you really say a piece of crap...you have a good vehicle there...maintain it and it will give you another 137k of service.
well your first problem is
ITS A DODGE
but really
replace oil pressure sending unit with original equipment replacement oil pressure sending unit. When replacing be sure to blow out electrical connection with air gun, add a small bit of di electric grease. PLUG and DUN.
this is a very typical problem
the sending unit is located lower left of oil filter
your also gonna need a special socket
possibly 1 1/8 oil pressure sending unit socket
you can get it at any parts store
Your oil is thinning out at high temp causing a drop in oil pressure. that makes the light come on . Ask yourself why is it getting hot ? yea I know you already did that . Any well maintained cooling system will keep your car running at optimum temp in the worst of conditions. flush the cooling system ,add new anti-freeze , change the thermostat , make sure the timing is accurate( too advanced or retarded will make it run hot) . take a hose and wash the crud out of the radiator core. If you get the temp to stay where its suppose to , the light will leave you alone.
first thing i would do is check the sending unit(it should be right by the oil filter)if its not that then its probably the oil pump.
Are you using the right type of oil for your car as per the makers spec, do not use cheap brands always buy the good stuff.
if the car has a high milage it could bethe engine starting to wear, but if light out during driving and the oil is clean and the right type the ngine may last a few more years.
Oil idiot light coming on at hot idle?
Some Chrysler cars have a problem with the sending unit wire, if you have a one wire connector, you may need a connector that has two wires, the extra wire lets the atmospheric pressure equalize. I just had a Intrepid that did the same thing as your car.The breather on the one wire connector was clogged with dirt. There is a service bulletin, And I got a new connector wire from my local dealer, it fixed the problem. I don't know if it applies to your car or not, and I don't know what your actual oil pressure is, but if the engine is in good shape and not knocking or making noise, it may fix it. Call your local Dodge dealer and tell them what your car is doing, and ask about a bulletin.
Oil idiot light coming on at hot idle?
I love dodge. MOPAR goes far
go to a oil change place and get them to take the light off
easy now...you got 137k on it and it's still running...so not a piece of crap. most likely your oil sending unit is leaking. It is located next to the oil filter. simply crawl under the car and look at the sending uinit...you will most likely see oil on it. replace it and you will be fine.
Had a eagle vision...same as a dodge intrepid...and it had the same problem...changed the sending unit and fixed the problem.
Look around you and see how many of these vehicles are on the road...then can you really say a piece of crap...you have a good vehicle there...maintain it and it will give you another 137k of service.
well your first problem is
ITS A DODGE
but really
replace oil pressure sending unit with original equipment replacement oil pressure sending unit. When replacing be sure to blow out electrical connection with air gun, add a small bit of di electric grease. PLUG and DUN.
this is a very typical problem
the sending unit is located lower left of oil filter
your also gonna need a special socket
possibly 1 1/8 oil pressure sending unit socket
you can get it at any parts store
Your oil is thinning out at high temp causing a drop in oil pressure. that makes the light come on . Ask yourself why is it getting hot ? yea I know you already did that . Any well maintained cooling system will keep your car running at optimum temp in the worst of conditions. flush the cooling system ,add new anti-freeze , change the thermostat , make sure the timing is accurate( too advanced or retarded will make it run hot) . take a hose and wash the crud out of the radiator core. If you get the temp to stay where its suppose to , the light will leave you alone.
first thing i would do is check the sending unit(it should be right by the oil filter)if its not that then its probably the oil pump.
Are you using the right type of oil for your car as per the makers spec, do not use cheap brands always buy the good stuff.
if the car has a high milage it could bethe engine starting to wear, but if light out during driving and the oil is clean and the right type the ngine may last a few more years.
03 Chevy impala hose leak?
Just had lower hose (radiator hose?), thermostat, relay fuses for fan changed. Water is leaking once more from the passenger side of car. Supposedly this is the hose they changed. Could it be a bad hose or not put on properly it did not do on yesterday or for a couple of days after is was replaced or coud it be water coming from somewhere else? So far not overheating what else could it be and how much?
03 Chevy impala hose leak?
it could be that they did,nt get the clamp tight enough or the hose is,nt on far enough.
03 Chevy impala hose leak?
it could be that they did,nt get the clamp tight enough or the hose is,nt on far enough.
My car is getting hot . Can anyone help?
I have changed the themostat and hoses. My radiator is not leaking. My oil is not milky from water ( cracked block) How can I tell if my water pump is bad. Help please.
My car is getting hot . Can anyone help?
Your water pump is probably good if it isn't leaking or squealing or shuddering. Trust me they can. Make sure you have a good 50/50 anti freeze mix. Something else you can do is take the car down to the car wash and using rinse only power wash the exterior of the radiator. My 92 Buick was overheating and I was surprised when I washed out the radiator fins. Ran dirty water for 10 minutes, I lived on a dirt road at the time. It runs alot happier. Something else, if your car has an electric cooling fan the temp switch on the radiator may not be working or the fan. Turning on the A.C. should turn on the fans on most cars. Next time you run hot open the hood and see if the fan(s) are turning.
My car is getting hot . Can anyone help?
This question sounds dirty. The first thng is that if u are checking out ur car, u need to get laid. 2nd, if u decide to bang ur car, u don't have to worry cuz u changed the hoses. she cant get pregnant now. 3rd, if ur radiator is leaking, i would see a doctor. good thing it isnt. 4th, if ur oil isnt milky, u need to get a sperm count check. this might also help u find out if ur water pump is bad lol. do u still empty ur water pump every day?
if water pump start leaking , it needs replacement.
did you check that the fan is working , if its automatic , electrical connection might be loose
if the diaphram goes out it will pee water somewhere under it on the block..there'll be a stain..or you'll see it leaking... or take it to a mech...
Hold on there Maverick!
Before you go running into any more furniture, What model, make, year, engine size. Lets approach this logically, it saves money and effort.
We can make ignorant guesses all night but that won't help you.
how can you tell if you water pump is bad un hook the hose thats on the pump and some thing to catch the coolient and start the car if coolient flows freely and also chech the air hole on the water pump and see if you see any coolient coming out if it flows frely and no coolient can be seen comming out the air hole on the pump then your problem lies else where if the block was crack or the head your engine would still drink coolient so there it would still be milky try checking you electric fan and your coolint temp sensor
How old is the car? Radiators can and do fill up with sediment over time.
if you had work done on the car it could be an air lock in the heater core. try bringing the car to operating temp and turn the heater on then squeeze the hoses with the rad cap off (leave the cap while it warms up if you don't want to be burned.). you could also try puting the car on a incline and decline and doing the same thing. when you do that you have to make sure that the thermostat has opened otherwise you may not have much luck.
one time I had this problem. it turned out that the seal between the engine block (lower part of engine) and the engine head (upper part of engine) was so old and deteriorated the it was leaking both oil and antifreeze so because the engine didn't get enough lubrication from the oil it got too hot and there wasn't enough antifreeze to cool it off, it finally got way too hot and busted the gasket totally and so the car had to be towed. It's not a good thing to let go on like that. If you know a good reliable %26quot;shade tree mechanic%26quot; he can try the following things and shouldn't cost you as much as a shop would charge:
1. have him go to a salvage yard and get a used water pump and see if when he replaces yours that it solves the problem....if not,
2. have him take off the engine head and replace the head gasket.
One or the other should do it. Good Luck!
The best and easiest way to see if water pump is operating correctly is to take off the radiator cap, start engine and see if water is moving through the radiator. You should be able to see the water anti-freeze flowing through the radiator. Give it about five minutes running you should know by then.
My car is getting hot . Can anyone help?
Your water pump is probably good if it isn't leaking or squealing or shuddering. Trust me they can. Make sure you have a good 50/50 anti freeze mix. Something else you can do is take the car down to the car wash and using rinse only power wash the exterior of the radiator. My 92 Buick was overheating and I was surprised when I washed out the radiator fins. Ran dirty water for 10 minutes, I lived on a dirt road at the time. It runs alot happier. Something else, if your car has an electric cooling fan the temp switch on the radiator may not be working or the fan. Turning on the A.C. should turn on the fans on most cars. Next time you run hot open the hood and see if the fan(s) are turning.
My car is getting hot . Can anyone help?
This question sounds dirty. The first thng is that if u are checking out ur car, u need to get laid. 2nd, if u decide to bang ur car, u don't have to worry cuz u changed the hoses. she cant get pregnant now. 3rd, if ur radiator is leaking, i would see a doctor. good thing it isnt. 4th, if ur oil isnt milky, u need to get a sperm count check. this might also help u find out if ur water pump is bad lol. do u still empty ur water pump every day?
if water pump start leaking , it needs replacement.
did you check that the fan is working , if its automatic , electrical connection might be loose
if the diaphram goes out it will pee water somewhere under it on the block..there'll be a stain..or you'll see it leaking... or take it to a mech...
Hold on there Maverick!
Before you go running into any more furniture, What model, make, year, engine size. Lets approach this logically, it saves money and effort.
We can make ignorant guesses all night but that won't help you.
how can you tell if you water pump is bad un hook the hose thats on the pump and some thing to catch the coolient and start the car if coolient flows freely and also chech the air hole on the water pump and see if you see any coolient coming out if it flows frely and no coolient can be seen comming out the air hole on the pump then your problem lies else where if the block was crack or the head your engine would still drink coolient so there it would still be milky try checking you electric fan and your coolint temp sensor
How old is the car? Radiators can and do fill up with sediment over time.
if you had work done on the car it could be an air lock in the heater core. try bringing the car to operating temp and turn the heater on then squeeze the hoses with the rad cap off (leave the cap while it warms up if you don't want to be burned.). you could also try puting the car on a incline and decline and doing the same thing. when you do that you have to make sure that the thermostat has opened otherwise you may not have much luck.
one time I had this problem. it turned out that the seal between the engine block (lower part of engine) and the engine head (upper part of engine) was so old and deteriorated the it was leaking both oil and antifreeze so because the engine didn't get enough lubrication from the oil it got too hot and there wasn't enough antifreeze to cool it off, it finally got way too hot and busted the gasket totally and so the car had to be towed. It's not a good thing to let go on like that. If you know a good reliable %26quot;shade tree mechanic%26quot; he can try the following things and shouldn't cost you as much as a shop would charge:
1. have him go to a salvage yard and get a used water pump and see if when he replaces yours that it solves the problem....if not,
2. have him take off the engine head and replace the head gasket.
One or the other should do it. Good Luck!
The best and easiest way to see if water pump is operating correctly is to take off the radiator cap, start engine and see if water is moving through the radiator. You should be able to see the water anti-freeze flowing through the radiator. Give it about five minutes running you should know by then.
How do I replace the power steering main pressure hose in a 1990 Honda Accord?
What tools will I need to replace the main powersteering pressure hose and what are the steps to replace it? I am not a mechanic but I am familiar with changing oil for my car, replacing radiator fan, replacing thermostat, replacing fuel filter, replacing air filter, etc. With my level of expertise, how much more difficult is it to replace the main pressure hose for the powersteering? Do I have to drain the fluid first? Should I wrap up the alternator to avoid spills into it? etc.
How do I replace the power steering main pressure hose in a 1990 Honda Accord?
the only special tools you'll need is a 14mm flare nut wrench.
start by draining the fluid. You do this by removing the return hose from the power steering reservoir (the hose that does not go to the power steering pump) and place the end into a suitable container such as an old 2 litre soda bottle.
have someone hold the bottle out of the way from the engine drive belts fo that it is at or below the level of the power steering reservir. Remove the cap from the power steering reservoir.
Then start the engine and slowly turn the steering wheel all the way to one side and hold it there for the count of 5. Then slowly turn it fully to the other side and hold it. Do this three or four times and the fluid will have been pumped out of the system. Stop as soon as the fluid flow becomes slight or stops so that you don't damage the pump.
Then you can remove the pressure line from the back of the power steering pump. it has a special banjo fitting but no special tool is required to remove the nut. I think its probably a 10 mm but I'm not sure.
with the hose removed from the pump end, raise the front of the car up. you'll have to get under the car and locate the steering gear. It will be attached to the rear engine bulkhead and have four steel lines going into the control valve. The pressure line has a 14 mm nut. the return line has a 17mm nut. the other two lines are for the power steering cooler. If the cooler lines are the same as the pressure line you'll have to figure out which line is the pressure line by following the hose back from the pump.
use the flare nut wrench so that you don't damage the fitting. Once you break it loose you can usually remove the fitting by hand and then remove the hose. I recommend wearing safety glasses because there may be residual fluid that comes out and you don't want to get that in your eyes.
replace the hose by routing the hose between the pump and the steering gear, then threading in the fitting to the steering rack first then tightening the fitting with the flare nut wrench. then connect the steering hose to the pump end using the special bolt that you removed earlier.
With the hose in place, reconnect the return hose to the reservoir, fill the reservoir with fluid and bleed the air out of the system by starting the engine and following the same procedure you used to remove the fluid from the system at the start. top off the fluid level to the full mark, and check for leaks. If no leaks, then your done.
As long as you have the right tools and some patience you should be able to do this.
hope that answers your questions
How do I replace the power steering main pressure hose in a 1990 Honda Accord?
the only special tools you'll need is a 14mm flare nut wrench.
start by draining the fluid. You do this by removing the return hose from the power steering reservoir (the hose that does not go to the power steering pump) and place the end into a suitable container such as an old 2 litre soda bottle.
have someone hold the bottle out of the way from the engine drive belts fo that it is at or below the level of the power steering reservir. Remove the cap from the power steering reservoir.
Then start the engine and slowly turn the steering wheel all the way to one side and hold it there for the count of 5. Then slowly turn it fully to the other side and hold it. Do this three or four times and the fluid will have been pumped out of the system. Stop as soon as the fluid flow becomes slight or stops so that you don't damage the pump.
Then you can remove the pressure line from the back of the power steering pump. it has a special banjo fitting but no special tool is required to remove the nut. I think its probably a 10 mm but I'm not sure.
with the hose removed from the pump end, raise the front of the car up. you'll have to get under the car and locate the steering gear. It will be attached to the rear engine bulkhead and have four steel lines going into the control valve. The pressure line has a 14 mm nut. the return line has a 17mm nut. the other two lines are for the power steering cooler. If the cooler lines are the same as the pressure line you'll have to figure out which line is the pressure line by following the hose back from the pump.
use the flare nut wrench so that you don't damage the fitting. Once you break it loose you can usually remove the fitting by hand and then remove the hose. I recommend wearing safety glasses because there may be residual fluid that comes out and you don't want to get that in your eyes.
replace the hose by routing the hose between the pump and the steering gear, then threading in the fitting to the steering rack first then tightening the fitting with the flare nut wrench. then connect the steering hose to the pump end using the special bolt that you removed earlier.
With the hose in place, reconnect the return hose to the reservoir, fill the reservoir with fluid and bleed the air out of the system by starting the engine and following the same procedure you used to remove the fluid from the system at the start. top off the fluid level to the full mark, and check for leaks. If no leaks, then your done.
As long as you have the right tools and some patience you should be able to do this.
hope that answers your questions
1990 Toyota Celica GT spits out water and over heats once in a while!!!?
My celica overheats by throwing out all of the water from the radiator, I have changed many hoses, thermostat, water pump and that's pretty much it. And every other month when I go long distance the Radiator will throw all the water out from the coolant bottle. What can the problem be?
1990 Toyota Celica GT spits out water and over heats once in a while!!!?
if you go to a garage and ask them to do a compression check ( bettr off scheduling it first) should take a 1/2 hr or so..
you may find that you have a blown head gasket,it may also require a pressurize coolent check ( very simple for them to do ).
If it is a blown head gasket... you'll have to decide if the car is worth the money to repair,it will cost you more in time/labor then the actual cost of the parts. but no one wants to work for free..agreed ??
best of luck
1990 Toyota Celica GT spits out water and over heats once in a while!!!?
have you tried a stop leak on the coolant system. Those work great to clog any leak in the system
First thing, check to see if you have water in the oil. If the oil is milky colored, water is leaking into the cylinders probably from a cracked head or blown head gasket. If the oil is not milky and you aren't leaking any coolant, check to be sure the radiator fan is cycling on and off properly. My best guess is that you need a new radiator. If the car only overheats under load after extended driving, your radiator is probably clogged up to the point that it doesn't have sufficient cooling capacity to meet your engine's needs at highway speeds.
I had a similar problem with my 1990 Honda Civic. I thought the head was cracked even though I had no oil in the water. I pulled the head and had it checked - it was fine. I went ahead and overhauled the engine since I had already come this far and it was a high mileage engine. The water pump was in great condition, no coolant leaks anywhere. Got my freshly rebuilt engine all set, tuned, ready to go. Took it for a test drive and, presto, still overheating. I put a new radiator in and now it runs cool as a cucumber.
I agree with the first answer it might be a leak in your coolant system. If the water is popping out the top then that just means you really need to take breaks during long drives. If it over heats to the point that it's dripping off the cap then your head gasket could blow at any moment.
For a Celica it's a grand to fix the head gasket and even then it could blow again by what you're describing. More coolant would be helpful or turning the heater on while driving to cool the engine.extension to sqltableprovider creating file
1990 Toyota Celica GT spits out water and over heats once in a while!!!?
if you go to a garage and ask them to do a compression check ( bettr off scheduling it first) should take a 1/2 hr or so..
you may find that you have a blown head gasket,it may also require a pressurize coolent check ( very simple for them to do ).
If it is a blown head gasket... you'll have to decide if the car is worth the money to repair,it will cost you more in time/labor then the actual cost of the parts. but no one wants to work for free..agreed ??
best of luck
1990 Toyota Celica GT spits out water and over heats once in a while!!!?
have you tried a stop leak on the coolant system. Those work great to clog any leak in the system
First thing, check to see if you have water in the oil. If the oil is milky colored, water is leaking into the cylinders probably from a cracked head or blown head gasket. If the oil is not milky and you aren't leaking any coolant, check to be sure the radiator fan is cycling on and off properly. My best guess is that you need a new radiator. If the car only overheats under load after extended driving, your radiator is probably clogged up to the point that it doesn't have sufficient cooling capacity to meet your engine's needs at highway speeds.
I had a similar problem with my 1990 Honda Civic. I thought the head was cracked even though I had no oil in the water. I pulled the head and had it checked - it was fine. I went ahead and overhauled the engine since I had already come this far and it was a high mileage engine. The water pump was in great condition, no coolant leaks anywhere. Got my freshly rebuilt engine all set, tuned, ready to go. Took it for a test drive and, presto, still overheating. I put a new radiator in and now it runs cool as a cucumber.
I agree with the first answer it might be a leak in your coolant system. If the water is popping out the top then that just means you really need to take breaks during long drives. If it over heats to the point that it's dripping off the cap then your head gasket could blow at any moment.
For a Celica it's a grand to fix the head gasket and even then it could blow again by what you're describing. More coolant would be helpful or turning the heater on while driving to cool the engine.
96 Honda ex over heating problem?
i changed my headgasket and got the head milled...also changed the thermistat .... and i am still over heating... their is a lot of presser in the radiator hoses.. does any one know the promblem?
96 Honda ex over heating problem?
i would say first check your water pump, then check the clutch on your fan
96 Honda ex over heating problem?
it's thermostat...and take it to someone who knows what they're doing and have it looked it.
The coolant pasages in the block might be clogeed
did you bleed the air outa the bleeder valve which is by the throttle body...you may have air lock... does it overheat when AC is on vs off? the upper radiator hose always has a ton of pressure. also replace/check the rad cap.. i have a 95 accord with 256K miles so am familiar with it. also check superhonda.com FORUM
with the work you have performed, the only conclusion is the radiator is not circulating. You can try a flush, if that doesnt work with the pressure you experience, the go to a junk yard and get another radiator. Though used, they do have areurn policy and are much cheaper than new.
Well start with the basics. Are your cooling fans working? and is the thermistat you put in working and put in the correct way? After that its time for the next leve of trouble shooting... and that means you could have a cracked head or the head gasket wasn't but on proberly.
You can start by seeing if you get a smell of antifreeze from the exhaust pipe (bad thing). You should also look in the overflow tank of the car. Make sure its at least half full of water and then look for bubbles while the car is running (if you see them its bad).
If either of the above happened then you either have a crack in the head or the gasket wasn't put on properly. You can take the head off again and look for any signs of water leaking past the gasket. If that looks fine then have your head x-rayed, sometimes the head wasn't just warped sometimes its got a crack that isn't easily seen.
You could have the wrong hoses if those were replaced at one point.
Check your coolant hoses and resevoir to make sure it is free of holes.
you can check out the honda website too, for a honda dealership nearest to you, they may be able to troubleshoot the problem for free.
water pump-change the timing belt while ur at it
--good luck
96 Honda ex over heating problem?
i would say first check your water pump, then check the clutch on your fan
96 Honda ex over heating problem?
it's thermostat...and take it to someone who knows what they're doing and have it looked it.
The coolant pasages in the block might be clogeed
did you bleed the air outa the bleeder valve which is by the throttle body...you may have air lock... does it overheat when AC is on vs off? the upper radiator hose always has a ton of pressure. also replace/check the rad cap.. i have a 95 accord with 256K miles so am familiar with it. also check superhonda.com FORUM
with the work you have performed, the only conclusion is the radiator is not circulating. You can try a flush, if that doesnt work with the pressure you experience, the go to a junk yard and get another radiator. Though used, they do have areurn policy and are much cheaper than new.
Well start with the basics. Are your cooling fans working? and is the thermistat you put in working and put in the correct way? After that its time for the next leve of trouble shooting... and that means you could have a cracked head or the head gasket wasn't but on proberly.
You can start by seeing if you get a smell of antifreeze from the exhaust pipe (bad thing). You should also look in the overflow tank of the car. Make sure its at least half full of water and then look for bubbles while the car is running (if you see them its bad).
If either of the above happened then you either have a crack in the head or the gasket wasn't put on properly. You can take the head off again and look for any signs of water leaking past the gasket. If that looks fine then have your head x-rayed, sometimes the head wasn't just warped sometimes its got a crack that isn't easily seen.
You could have the wrong hoses if those were replaced at one point.
Check your coolant hoses and resevoir to make sure it is free of holes.
you can check out the honda website too, for a honda dealership nearest to you, they may be able to troubleshoot the problem for free.
water pump-change the timing belt while ur at it
--good luck
Where could a 2000 Jeep Wrangler Sport 4.0L be leaking from?
Jeep Wrangler runs hot and leaks again. Everything has been changed, the radiator, water pump, fan clutch, hoses, and the engine flushed and cleaned. No water in oil and no smoke in the exhaust, so it's not the head. Can not find the leak. The pressure tests shows nothing. I add about a cup of water a day to the radiator. It is not running hot any longer, because I keep the radiator filled with water. Where is the leak?%26quot;
Where could a 2000 Jeep Wrangler Sport 4.0L be leaking from?
Have you tried a new radiator cap? Try blocking off the heater hoses and see if it goes away. A cup a day is a very small leak. If eliminating the heater and hoses and radiator cap doesn't do it, I'd suspect a very small head gasket leak. Something that small may not be detectable in the exhaust.
Where could a 2000 Jeep Wrangler Sport 4.0L be leaking from?
I can give you a couple of suggestions;
Pressure test the cap. Sometimes this item gets overlooked and the cap is releasing the coolant in the form of steam.
Also the water pump seal could be going bad and only leaking when the pressure is high and escaping under the car while driving.
Also pressure test the entire cooling system hot and cold to see if you have an internal leak.
Where could a 2000 Jeep Wrangler Sport 4.0L be leaking from?
Have you tried a new radiator cap? Try blocking off the heater hoses and see if it goes away. A cup a day is a very small leak. If eliminating the heater and hoses and radiator cap doesn't do it, I'd suspect a very small head gasket leak. Something that small may not be detectable in the exhaust.
Where could a 2000 Jeep Wrangler Sport 4.0L be leaking from?
I can give you a couple of suggestions;
Pressure test the cap. Sometimes this item gets overlooked and the cap is releasing the coolant in the form of steam.
Also the water pump seal could be going bad and only leaking when the pressure is high and escaping under the car while driving.
Also pressure test the entire cooling system hot and cold to see if you have an internal leak.
In Answer to Question on Oil Weight?
The reason I know it was 10w30 was because it was on receipt. I had asked them to use High Mileage 50W because that is what I have used for two years now. And I am very good about getting the oil changed withing the time limit suggested. I have always taken very good care of my car. It is a 1992 Mercury GM and has been in excellent condition with only 121,000 miles. I know that is a lot of mileage, but not for that old of a car. Anyway, I told the car repair shop exactly what it was doing, shouldn't they have been able to tell it was something other than a radiator hose ? And would going from a high mileage 50W oil to a 10W30 oil cause it to overheat ?
In Answer to Question on Oil Weight?
actually using thicker oil than whats called for by your owners manual is killing your engine.I'm surprised you haven't replaced an oil pump yet,or you simply omitted to mention that. the oil helps a little bit in cooling but its primary job is lubrication.if the hose has developed a leak or is getting old it will drip fluid out of the cooling system,and will cause your car to overheat.how old are the hoses? if their original,the hoses may be doing whats called %26quot;sweating%26quot; and losing the coolant through evaporation,which would leave no sign of dripping,but would still lower the coolant level,and the cooling systems effectiveness.
In Answer to Question on Oil Weight?
the engine use the oil not only for lubrication but, also for cooling purposes
the oil pump force the oil through the gallery in the engine.with pressure and Speed. (the thicker the oil ,the higher the pressure and lower the speed)
high viscosity oil is producing(by not removing it) more heat
because, the oil gallery restrict the oil speed and also modern engine depend a lot in oil speed.
when the speed of the oil in the engine gallery is too slow then hot spots form in the engine sub secuently warpage might overcome and burned oil (might turn rock) start clogging the gallery.
unfortunated,the clogging always start forming in the most need it areas of lubrication.
1992 Mercury GM? No doubt your car was designed to run on either 5W30 or 10W30. Who told you to run 50W oil? 121000 miles isnt high mileage if you take care of it but running 50W oil isnt helping it any. If its over heating it is probably caused by something else like maybe a stuck thermostat.
your question starts out oil and ends up overheating. YOU NOW NEED TO GET GOOD MECHANICAL HELP. Switching from 20/50 oil to 10/30 oil will not cause overheating. Might make more motor noise on start up. Get the thermostat and radator tested. then procede to more expensive things. Some of the Ford engines have plastic intake manifolds that crack around where the thermostat and top hose hooks up. Good luck %26quot;CARNAK SEES NEW CAR IN YOUR FUTURE%26quot;
no it wouldn't make it over heat. summer time you run a heavier oil weight because the heat will break the viscosity of the oil and damage your engine. winter time you use a lighter weight oil because it will make it a lot harder on the battery and starter turning the engine over to start.
In Answer to Question on Oil Weight?
actually using thicker oil than whats called for by your owners manual is killing your engine.I'm surprised you haven't replaced an oil pump yet,or you simply omitted to mention that. the oil helps a little bit in cooling but its primary job is lubrication.if the hose has developed a leak or is getting old it will drip fluid out of the cooling system,and will cause your car to overheat.how old are the hoses? if their original,the hoses may be doing whats called %26quot;sweating%26quot; and losing the coolant through evaporation,which would leave no sign of dripping,but would still lower the coolant level,and the cooling systems effectiveness.
In Answer to Question on Oil Weight?
the engine use the oil not only for lubrication but, also for cooling purposes
the oil pump force the oil through the gallery in the engine.with pressure and Speed. (the thicker the oil ,the higher the pressure and lower the speed)
high viscosity oil is producing(by not removing it) more heat
because, the oil gallery restrict the oil speed and also modern engine depend a lot in oil speed.
when the speed of the oil in the engine gallery is too slow then hot spots form in the engine sub secuently warpage might overcome and burned oil (might turn rock) start clogging the gallery.
unfortunated,the clogging always start forming in the most need it areas of lubrication.
1992 Mercury GM? No doubt your car was designed to run on either 5W30 or 10W30. Who told you to run 50W oil? 121000 miles isnt high mileage if you take care of it but running 50W oil isnt helping it any. If its over heating it is probably caused by something else like maybe a stuck thermostat.
your question starts out oil and ends up overheating. YOU NOW NEED TO GET GOOD MECHANICAL HELP. Switching from 20/50 oil to 10/30 oil will not cause overheating. Might make more motor noise on start up. Get the thermostat and radator tested. then procede to more expensive things. Some of the Ford engines have plastic intake manifolds that crack around where the thermostat and top hose hooks up. Good luck %26quot;CARNAK SEES NEW CAR IN YOUR FUTURE%26quot;
no it wouldn't make it over heat. summer time you run a heavier oil weight because the heat will break the viscosity of the oil and damage your engine. winter time you use a lighter weight oil because it will make it a lot harder on the battery and starter turning the engine over to start.
Chevrolet Lumina 1996: Why Low Coolant light stays on?
The Low Coolant light stays on althought I've already checked/re-filled the coolant tank and everything is working fine. The radiator is full and the hoses were recently changed, and the car has 184,000 miles but still runs great. Does anybody knows what's going on???
Chevrolet Lumina 1996: Why Low Coolant light stays on?
you have a piece of dirt in the coolant level sensor causing it to stick in the on position, it's located in your plastic overflow tank and all you have to do is get a rubber hammer and smack the side of the plastic tank a couple of times and this usually dislodges the dirt from the sensor.
Chevrolet Lumina 1996: Why Low Coolant light stays on?
you have a piece of dirt in the coolant level sensor causing it to stick in the on position, it's located in your plastic overflow tank and all you have to do is get a rubber hammer and smack the side of the plastic tank a couple of times and this usually dislodges the dirt from the sensor.
I've been told that i need a new timer, do I? and misfire in 1 that isn't constant, what do you think/
I have a 2000 Plymouth Neon 3 speed Automatic 2.0 whatever, and the fan almost never stops, when it does, it's for 10 seconds and starts up again. The air condition is great, but it sweats like crazy, I can see puddles accumulate under the car when it sits. I just changed the upper radiator hose and the car's running nice, like it got more power, the old hose was almost twice the size of the new one, the old one finally burst. Now there's a slight hissing out of the engine over by the belts where the hose busted. The Timing belt busted about 7 months ago and the mechanic says that one of the piston rings won't work right, nut that the car'll run. The check engine lights on and I checked it, misfire on one. It goes away and comes back sporadically. I've tried high octane gas, low ocatne, 5-30, 10-40 and 20-50 oil, synthetic, blend and regular, injector cleaners, but nothing keeps it from coming back. The longest the light stayed off was when I changed the plugs.
I've been told that i need a new timer, do I? and misfire in 1 that isn't constant, what do you think/
Use a ohm meter to check your sparkplug wire, or us a spark tester between the wire and plug. Sounds like bad wire or coil.
I've been told that i need a new timer, do I? and misfire in 1 that isn't constant, what do you think/
Use a ohm meter to check your sparkplug wire, or us a spark tester between the wire and plug. Sounds like bad wire or coil.
Will this hold untill I can repair it?
My car was leaking antifreeze and I changed the lower radiator hose because thats where it seemed to be coming from. After driving with the new hose the problem was still there. I came to find out that its the plastic lower radiator hose housing that has a hole in it. It seems to have only two small bolts that hold it on the block. I was thinking since I dont have the time right now to go find the part if I should remove it and try to just put gasket sealant inside to cover the hole or maybe some JB weld or something like that. Will it hold? is it safe and a good idea?
Will this hold untill I can repair it?
Plastic parts are very hard to patch/glue, save yourself the hassle and just buy a new part. You say you don't have time to find the part, do you have time to be broke down on the side of the road because you tried to do a cheap fix?
Will this hold untill I can repair it?
J.B. Weld may work if the area is clan and dry and you let it sit for 24 hours to dry before putting antifreeze back in.
The best bet would be just to find a new radiator at a junk yard.
to risky you could bust your motor , wait till you have the time to make a proper repair
a leak will only get worse.
Try a waterproof epoxy, quick dry
J-B weld takes 24 hours to cure
I am not sure where the problem is, sounds like a lower water neck type of thing, or part of the water pump.
Any way, I would be tempted to get a self drilling screw to run into it with a washer and sealer on it. I am not sure it would work due to the location and shape of the parts.
Just a patch of rubber with string wrapped around it might work too if bound tight.
If you wait longer. You risk overheating the engine then you will need those parts plus another engine and maybe a transmission. Fix it or leave the car at home %26amp; take the bus or get a ride.textbox funny pet name
Will this hold untill I can repair it?
Plastic parts are very hard to patch/glue, save yourself the hassle and just buy a new part. You say you don't have time to find the part, do you have time to be broke down on the side of the road because you tried to do a cheap fix?
Will this hold untill I can repair it?
J.B. Weld may work if the area is clan and dry and you let it sit for 24 hours to dry before putting antifreeze back in.
The best bet would be just to find a new radiator at a junk yard.
to risky you could bust your motor , wait till you have the time to make a proper repair
a leak will only get worse.
Try a waterproof epoxy, quick dry
J-B weld takes 24 hours to cure
I am not sure where the problem is, sounds like a lower water neck type of thing, or part of the water pump.
Any way, I would be tempted to get a self drilling screw to run into it with a washer and sealer on it. I am not sure it would work due to the location and shape of the parts.
Just a patch of rubber with string wrapped around it might work too if bound tight.
If you wait longer. You risk overheating the engine then you will need those parts plus another engine and maybe a transmission. Fix it or leave the car at home %26amp; take the bus or get a ride.
What is wrong with this car?
1996 mazda 626 lx automatic ok coming home from work it started acting like it wanted to die then the heat hand went to hot hot then it really started to die i pulled over opened the hood steaming of course then it quit the upper radiator hose was busted that is ok but the alternator bracket also broke why did it break and there is a belt also that was missing the one from the engine to alternator i think what is it called also if ya can help why did the bracket break and which belt is it also i just changed the lower radiator hose 2 weeks ago why is the hose busting for it is just a work car but it has been a good one does not want to get rid of it thanks in advance
What is wrong with this car?
i am sure the belt broke the alternator bracket. i don't know if your car has a separate belt for your alternator or not...the parts store can tell you that.
What is wrong with this car?
thermostat was stuck closed and could not handle the pressure
ok here's what may have happened,the alternator bracket broke(they just do that sometimes) taking out all the belts including the one that runs your water pump,when the pump quit working the car got hot very quickly and blew the hose,as far as your hose issues often when you fix one leak in an older cooling system it will seek out the next weakest spot to blow out,I would check to make sure you didn't blow the head gasket before you put too much money in this car
Alisha
The name of the part you are asking is called the alternator bracket and its designed to hold the alternator in place where it belongs.
In the old school cars the alternator is often held by two long bolts,the first one is the pivot bolt and the last one is the adjustment bolt which keeps the belt tension at the spot where its supposed to be to keep it tight.
Your car also needs this bracket to keep the belt tension constant,and while you are at it you would be better off having it towed to a reputable shop and ask them to repair everything that is broken and any missing parts that need to be replaced,don't forget the alternator bracket and tell them to order that part.
GOOD LUCK
sounds like the alt bracket broke and that caused the belt for fan to stop and made it overheat.
sounds like you have a canooter valve problem
bracket broke and caused the rest of the problems/should have changed all the hoses/make sure you change t/stat and probably w/pump/those w/pumps separate when they are o/heated
What is wrong with this car?
i am sure the belt broke the alternator bracket. i don't know if your car has a separate belt for your alternator or not...the parts store can tell you that.
What is wrong with this car?
thermostat was stuck closed and could not handle the pressure
ok here's what may have happened,the alternator bracket broke(they just do that sometimes) taking out all the belts including the one that runs your water pump,when the pump quit working the car got hot very quickly and blew the hose,as far as your hose issues often when you fix one leak in an older cooling system it will seek out the next weakest spot to blow out,I would check to make sure you didn't blow the head gasket before you put too much money in this car
Alisha
The name of the part you are asking is called the alternator bracket and its designed to hold the alternator in place where it belongs.
In the old school cars the alternator is often held by two long bolts,the first one is the pivot bolt and the last one is the adjustment bolt which keeps the belt tension at the spot where its supposed to be to keep it tight.
Your car also needs this bracket to keep the belt tension constant,and while you are at it you would be better off having it towed to a reputable shop and ask them to repair everything that is broken and any missing parts that need to be replaced,don't forget the alternator bracket and tell them to order that part.
GOOD LUCK
sounds like the alt bracket broke and that caused the belt for fan to stop and made it overheat.
sounds like you have a canooter valve problem
bracket broke and caused the rest of the problems/should have changed all the hoses/make sure you change t/stat and probably w/pump/those w/pumps separate when they are o/heated
Broken radiator part question?
i got a 95 suburban, my hubby was trying to change the oil and when he was reaching for the oil filter, he broke the part that you hook the hose to the radiator to. the part that sticks out from it. the part is plastic, and he tryed to use some kind of glue you mix then let it set for 30 min, then put it on what you want to glue. i was wondering if i will have to get a new radiator, or if it is a part i can buy to replace it with out having to buy a new radiator?
Broken radiator part question?
got to a junk yard and get a used one they are about 40 bucks
Broken radiator part question?
Due to the temperature extremes on these radiators,
the only real remedy is to get a different radiator.
There is just no glue you can use to repair a broken
neck as they just won't hold for long.
Other than a new one you might be able to find one
at a salvage yard. Those places have the interchange
books to know what other vehicles, and what years
would interchange with your model, so it adds to the
ability to find what you need.
There just isn't any special part that will repair, or
replace the broken piece other than a new top tank.
Some radiator shops can do that part, but the cost
would exceed what you would pay for a good one
from a salvage yard.
You'll need that side tank for your radiator or a complete radiator to fix it. Don't drive it as it is cause the cooling system has 15 psi %26amp; WILL leak from his patch.The good news is that a new radiator is less than $150.
from what you are describing it sounds like just the clamp on the hose. if thats it you can get a new, more durable, metal one at autozone for just a couple of dollars. if its just the clamp you should not have to replace the entire radiator. just go to autozone and buy a new one. should be a couple dollars and can be installed in just a couple of minutes
Broken radiator part question?
got to a junk yard and get a used one they are about 40 bucks
Broken radiator part question?
Due to the temperature extremes on these radiators,
the only real remedy is to get a different radiator.
There is just no glue you can use to repair a broken
neck as they just won't hold for long.
Other than a new one you might be able to find one
at a salvage yard. Those places have the interchange
books to know what other vehicles, and what years
would interchange with your model, so it adds to the
ability to find what you need.
There just isn't any special part that will repair, or
replace the broken piece other than a new top tank.
Some radiator shops can do that part, but the cost
would exceed what you would pay for a good one
from a salvage yard.
You'll need that side tank for your radiator or a complete radiator to fix it. Don't drive it as it is cause the cooling system has 15 psi %26amp; WILL leak from his patch.The good news is that a new radiator is less than $150.
from what you are describing it sounds like just the clamp on the hose. if thats it you can get a new, more durable, metal one at autozone for just a couple of dollars. if its just the clamp you should not have to replace the entire radiator. just go to autozone and buy a new one. should be a couple dollars and can be installed in just a couple of minutes
'97 Ford Contour overheating; no pressure in cooling system. Water pump gone bad?
I have a '97 Ford Contour GL (2.0L 4-Cyl) that's been having problems with overheating. I changed the thermostat, drained and backflushed both the radiator and heater core (no signs of any blockage) and after hooking everything back up, it actually overheats even faster than before. Reservoir is filled to the max and the system just won't burp/bleed. Pressure on the lower hose seems low as does pressure on the heater inlet/outlet hoses. There doesn't seem to be *any* pressure in the upper radiator hose, but it does get hot... from steam. I noticed this after pulling the hose off a good 20 minutes after it last overheated. The hose was bone dry. I tested the thermostat by boiling it in a pot of water and it opens and closes just fine. Engine seems to run strong and sound fine, but there is some grayish (with a tinge of brown) smoke that comes from the exhaust when I rev it up to about 3k RPMs. Maybe the beginnings of a leaking head gasket as well? Help! :)
'97 Ford Contour overheating; no pressure in cooling system. Water pump gone bad?
On the 2.0, I've had radiators flow but not enough to keep the engine from overheating.
Also to bleed the system, fill it up leave the radiator cap off , start the engine and run with the heater on max vent. It should burp fluid and air before it finally sucks it down hard one good time, then the top radiator hose should be hot and refill the jug and retighten the radiator cap and check to make sure the heater is putting out real hot.
Also one or two have had bad impellers on the water pump but usually that was a problem on 2.5 v-6s
'97 Ford Contour overheating; no pressure in cooling system. Water pump gone bad?
How hot? THose things had issues where the guage as long as it was in the normal range it was considered ok...
I have seen LOTS of those cars with gauges indicating HOT. Another place those cars were notorious for coolant leaks, was from the engine block heater. You would need to have the car on a lift to see this, because it's under the intake manifold, on the FIREWALL side of the engine.
Just a thought...I own a British Mondeo, basically a Contour, and had similar problems, in the end it turned out to be the plastic impeller in the water pump had broken. Apparently they are prone to getting hairline cracks in them and eventually fail. Hope you get it sorted!
it could be the water pump,or it could be a bad rad.cap,not holding enough pressure.do you got anti-freeze in your oil,if so then theres your answer,you blown a head gasket.also after you warm it up,turn it off and see if theres any cold spots on the rad.if there are any cold spots then the rad. is clogged up someplace.
mine overheats because the radiator fan doesn't come on - it only overheats when i am in traffic or not moving, when it does get to 220 or so I turn on the heat full blast and that cools it down to 150 degrees - i am going to run it like that with the heater keeping it cool until next spring when i wont need the heater and it will be better weather for car work
it must be the water pump
Well, you did a lot of good things, but there is something wrong with your pressure cap. It is what controls the pressure in your system, unless you have a leak some where. It could also be the reason for your overheating, because after it gets hot it will simply blow the water out of your cap. Cars are made to run at or near the boiling point. The radiator cap keeps the super heated water in the system. Cars need high temperature to help in burning the fuel completely. It is normal for you car to get a few degrees hotter than your thermostat setting. You just got to get a cap and check the neck of the radiator. You gotta hold that pressure.
You backflushed your radiator. That process takes all the sediment in your lower tank and pushes it lnto the coolant passages in the radiator. Thus you have increased the problem and it overheats faster, as you stated. Is your thermostst in correctly ? I have seen them installed upside down.
Try this---Remove the radiator cap, when cool, Fill the system, start engine and let idle till thermostst opens. You will see circulation in radiator if thermostst opens. Turn off engine and feel the radiator core for spots of lower temp. If you find %26quot;cool%26quot; spots you need your radiator cleaned at a radiator shop. No amount of flushing will fix it.
I would not venture a guess on your exhaust problem without seeing it.
NEVER repeat NEVER change any part until the problem is found.
Old mechanics proverb.
It could be the head gasket but did you change the radiator cap? The closed system cooling systems will over heat if there is any leakage what so ever! Check it close and try a new cap! You can check the water pump by opening the radiator cap while engine is cold and let it warm up with the cap off. When the thermostat opens you should see water flow. If you do and you see small bubbles then you have a head gasket or intake problem.
it could be you radiator or yes the pump. its a ford the rings could be going! they always do! check you oil for white or any evidence of antifreeze.
maybe a head gasket, when you buy those cheap thermostats at advance or autozone or somewhere its good to drop it in a bowl of boiling water to test it before you install them, ive bought several only to have to take them out and put a new one in
'97 Ford Contour overheating; no pressure in cooling system. Water pump gone bad?
On the 2.0, I've had radiators flow but not enough to keep the engine from overheating.
Also to bleed the system, fill it up leave the radiator cap off , start the engine and run with the heater on max vent. It should burp fluid and air before it finally sucks it down hard one good time, then the top radiator hose should be hot and refill the jug and retighten the radiator cap and check to make sure the heater is putting out real hot.
Also one or two have had bad impellers on the water pump but usually that was a problem on 2.5 v-6s
'97 Ford Contour overheating; no pressure in cooling system. Water pump gone bad?
How hot? THose things had issues where the guage as long as it was in the normal range it was considered ok...
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I have seen LOTS of those cars with gauges indicating HOT. Another place those cars were notorious for coolant leaks, was from the engine block heater. You would need to have the car on a lift to see this, because it's under the intake manifold, on the FIREWALL side of the engine.
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Just a thought...I own a British Mondeo, basically a Contour, and had similar problems, in the end it turned out to be the plastic impeller in the water pump had broken. Apparently they are prone to getting hairline cracks in them and eventually fail. Hope you get it sorted!
it could be the water pump,or it could be a bad rad.cap,not holding enough pressure.do you got anti-freeze in your oil,if so then theres your answer,you blown a head gasket.also after you warm it up,turn it off and see if theres any cold spots on the rad.if there are any cold spots then the rad. is clogged up someplace.
mine overheats because the radiator fan doesn't come on - it only overheats when i am in traffic or not moving, when it does get to 220 or so I turn on the heat full blast and that cools it down to 150 degrees - i am going to run it like that with the heater keeping it cool until next spring when i wont need the heater and it will be better weather for car work
it must be the water pump
Well, you did a lot of good things, but there is something wrong with your pressure cap. It is what controls the pressure in your system, unless you have a leak some where. It could also be the reason for your overheating, because after it gets hot it will simply blow the water out of your cap. Cars are made to run at or near the boiling point. The radiator cap keeps the super heated water in the system. Cars need high temperature to help in burning the fuel completely. It is normal for you car to get a few degrees hotter than your thermostat setting. You just got to get a cap and check the neck of the radiator. You gotta hold that pressure.
You backflushed your radiator. That process takes all the sediment in your lower tank and pushes it lnto the coolant passages in the radiator. Thus you have increased the problem and it overheats faster, as you stated. Is your thermostst in correctly ? I have seen them installed upside down.
Try this---Remove the radiator cap, when cool, Fill the system, start engine and let idle till thermostst opens. You will see circulation in radiator if thermostst opens. Turn off engine and feel the radiator core for spots of lower temp. If you find %26quot;cool%26quot; spots you need your radiator cleaned at a radiator shop. No amount of flushing will fix it.
I would not venture a guess on your exhaust problem without seeing it.
NEVER repeat NEVER change any part until the problem is found.
Old mechanics proverb.
It could be the head gasket but did you change the radiator cap? The closed system cooling systems will over heat if there is any leakage what so ever! Check it close and try a new cap! You can check the water pump by opening the radiator cap while engine is cold and let it warm up with the cap off. When the thermostat opens you should see water flow. If you do and you see small bubbles then you have a head gasket or intake problem.
it could be you radiator or yes the pump. its a ford the rings could be going! they always do! check you oil for white or any evidence of antifreeze.
maybe a head gasket, when you buy those cheap thermostats at advance or autozone or somewhere its good to drop it in a bowl of boiling water to test it before you install them, ive bought several only to have to take them out and put a new one in
Car temperature lights comes on?
I changed the thermostat and the water pump and all of the radiator hoses .
I hear a hissing sound behind the alternator, could it be the radiator or what is it I think monday Its going to a shop if I have to
Car temperature lights comes on?
Until it is properly pressure tested and cooling fans checked, my guess is as good as anybodies as to why it's getting hot. Year, make and model (engine size is good) would help. Some engines need to be bled properly before they cool properly.
I hear a hissing sound behind the alternator, could it be the radiator or what is it I think monday Its going to a shop if I have to
Car temperature lights comes on?
Until it is properly pressure tested and cooling fans checked, my guess is as good as anybodies as to why it's getting hot. Year, make and model (engine size is good) would help. Some engines need to be bled properly before they cool properly.
I've got an '89 1.8, Subaru Gl. Is there any way I can test the radiator to see if it's good?
All is working well, but it over heats on hot days and going up hill. I've changed the thermostat and flushed the system. The hoses all look good. Any ideas?
I've got an '89 1.8, Subaru Gl. Is there any way I can test the radiator to see if it's good?
The cooling system on your particular model ('85-'93) was marginal at best when new, and easily plugs up over the miles and if the engine overheats the heads can crack easily too.
The first thing I would recommend is to undo the exhaust 'Y' pipe bolts, pull down the 'Y' pipe and examine the exhaust ports to see if any coolant or coolant tracking (yellowish-green lines) are visible in either port. If so, the head or heads are cracked.
If nothing looks out of the ordinary then I would consider myself very lucky and replace the radiator outright. They are not expensive and are not worth flushing or rebuilding.dapple dachshunds for sale into drilling for oil
I've got an '89 1.8, Subaru Gl. Is there any way I can test the radiator to see if it's good?
The cooling system on your particular model ('85-'93) was marginal at best when new, and easily plugs up over the miles and if the engine overheats the heads can crack easily too.
The first thing I would recommend is to undo the exhaust 'Y' pipe bolts, pull down the 'Y' pipe and examine the exhaust ports to see if any coolant or coolant tracking (yellowish-green lines) are visible in either port. If so, the head or heads are cracked.
If nothing looks out of the ordinary then I would consider myself very lucky and replace the radiator outright. They are not expensive and are not worth flushing or rebuilding.
Oil idiot light coming on at hot idle?
1999 dodge caravan 3.3l 137000 miles just started 2 days ago the light comes on only while hot and idling in gear at a stoplight or in the FREAKIN construction zone when the interstate is like a parking lot. Changed oil and filter same result. Where is oil sending unit? Is it next to the oil filter on left by lower radiator hose? I will change this before accepting that another major repair is needed on this American made piece of crap NEVER NEVER buy a dodge
Oil idiot light coming on at hot idle?
Some Chrysler cars have a problem with the sending unit wire, if you have a one wire connector, you may need a connector that has two wires, the extra wire lets the atmospheric pressure equalize. I just had a Intrepid that did the same thing as your car.The breather on the one wire connector was clogged with dirt. There is a service bulletin, And I got a new connector wire from my local dealer, it fixed the problem. I don't know if it applies to your car or not, and I don't know what your actual oil pressure is, but if the engine is in good shape and not knocking or making noise, it may fix it. Call your local Dodge dealer and tell them what your car is doing, and ask about a bulletin.
Oil idiot light coming on at hot idle?
I love dodge. MOPAR goes far
go to a oil change place and get them to take the light off
easy now...you got 137k on it and it's still running...so not a piece of crap. most likely your oil sending unit is leaking. It is located next to the oil filter. simply crawl under the car and look at the sending uinit...you will most likely see oil on it. replace it and you will be fine.
Had a eagle vision...same as a dodge intrepid...and it had the same problem...changed the sending unit and fixed the problem.
Look around you and see how many of these vehicles are on the road...then can you really say a piece of crap...you have a good vehicle there...maintain it and it will give you another 137k of service.
well your first problem is
ITS A DODGE
but really
replace oil pressure sending unit with original equipment replacement oil pressure sending unit. When replacing be sure to blow out electrical connection with air gun, add a small bit of di electric grease. PLUG and DUN.
this is a very typical problem
the sending unit is located lower left of oil filter
your also gonna need a special socket
possibly 1 1/8 oil pressure sending unit socket
you can get it at any parts store
Your oil is thinning out at high temp causing a drop in oil pressure. that makes the light come on . Ask yourself why is it getting hot ? yea I know you already did that . Any well maintained cooling system will keep your car running at optimum temp in the worst of conditions. flush the cooling system ,add new anti-freeze , change the thermostat , make sure the timing is accurate( too advanced or retarded will make it run hot) . take a hose and wash the crud out of the radiator core. If you get the temp to stay where its suppose to , the light will leave you alone.
first thing i would do is check the sending unit(it should be right by the oil filter)if its not that then its probably the oil pump.
Are you using the right type of oil for your car as per the makers spec, do not use cheap brands always buy the good stuff.
if the car has a high milage it could bethe engine starting to wear, but if light out during driving and the oil is clean and the right type the ngine may last a few more years.
Oil idiot light coming on at hot idle?
Some Chrysler cars have a problem with the sending unit wire, if you have a one wire connector, you may need a connector that has two wires, the extra wire lets the atmospheric pressure equalize. I just had a Intrepid that did the same thing as your car.The breather on the one wire connector was clogged with dirt. There is a service bulletin, And I got a new connector wire from my local dealer, it fixed the problem. I don't know if it applies to your car or not, and I don't know what your actual oil pressure is, but if the engine is in good shape and not knocking or making noise, it may fix it. Call your local Dodge dealer and tell them what your car is doing, and ask about a bulletin.
Oil idiot light coming on at hot idle?
I love dodge. MOPAR goes far
go to a oil change place and get them to take the light off
easy now...you got 137k on it and it's still running...so not a piece of crap. most likely your oil sending unit is leaking. It is located next to the oil filter. simply crawl under the car and look at the sending uinit...you will most likely see oil on it. replace it and you will be fine.
Had a eagle vision...same as a dodge intrepid...and it had the same problem...changed the sending unit and fixed the problem.
Look around you and see how many of these vehicles are on the road...then can you really say a piece of crap...you have a good vehicle there...maintain it and it will give you another 137k of service.
well your first problem is
ITS A DODGE
but really
replace oil pressure sending unit with original equipment replacement oil pressure sending unit. When replacing be sure to blow out electrical connection with air gun, add a small bit of di electric grease. PLUG and DUN.
this is a very typical problem
the sending unit is located lower left of oil filter
your also gonna need a special socket
possibly 1 1/8 oil pressure sending unit socket
you can get it at any parts store
Your oil is thinning out at high temp causing a drop in oil pressure. that makes the light come on . Ask yourself why is it getting hot ? yea I know you already did that . Any well maintained cooling system will keep your car running at optimum temp in the worst of conditions. flush the cooling system ,add new anti-freeze , change the thermostat , make sure the timing is accurate( too advanced or retarded will make it run hot) . take a hose and wash the crud out of the radiator core. If you get the temp to stay where its suppose to , the light will leave you alone.
first thing i would do is check the sending unit(it should be right by the oil filter)if its not that then its probably the oil pump.
Are you using the right type of oil for your car as per the makers spec, do not use cheap brands always buy the good stuff.
if the car has a high milage it could bethe engine starting to wear, but if light out during driving and the oil is clean and the right type the ngine may last a few more years.
03 Chevy impala hose leak?
Just had lower hose (radiator hose?), thermostat, relay fuses for fan changed. Water is leaking once more from the passenger side of car. Supposedly this is the hose they changed. Could it be a bad hose or not put on properly it did not do on yesterday or for a couple of days after is was replaced or coud it be water coming from somewhere else? So far not overheating what else could it be and how much?
03 Chevy impala hose leak?
it could be that they did,nt get the clamp tight enough or the hose is,nt on far enough.
03 Chevy impala hose leak?
it could be that they did,nt get the clamp tight enough or the hose is,nt on far enough.
My car is getting hot . Can anyone help?
I have changed the themostat and hoses. My radiator is not leaking. My oil is not milky from water ( cracked block) How can I tell if my water pump is bad. Help please.
My car is getting hot . Can anyone help?
Your water pump is probably good if it isn't leaking or squealing or shuddering. Trust me they can. Make sure you have a good 50/50 anti freeze mix. Something else you can do is take the car down to the car wash and using rinse only power wash the exterior of the radiator. My 92 Buick was overheating and I was surprised when I washed out the radiator fins. Ran dirty water for 10 minutes, I lived on a dirt road at the time. It runs alot happier. Something else, if your car has an electric cooling fan the temp switch on the radiator may not be working or the fan. Turning on the A.C. should turn on the fans on most cars. Next time you run hot open the hood and see if the fan(s) are turning.
My car is getting hot . Can anyone help?
This question sounds dirty. The first thng is that if u are checking out ur car, u need to get laid. 2nd, if u decide to bang ur car, u don't have to worry cuz u changed the hoses. she cant get pregnant now. 3rd, if ur radiator is leaking, i would see a doctor. good thing it isnt. 4th, if ur oil isnt milky, u need to get a sperm count check. this might also help u find out if ur water pump is bad lol. do u still empty ur water pump every day?
if water pump start leaking , it needs replacement.
did you check that the fan is working , if its automatic , electrical connection might be loose
if the diaphram goes out it will pee water somewhere under it on the block..there'll be a stain..or you'll see it leaking... or take it to a mech...
Hold on there Maverick!
Before you go running into any more furniture, What model, make, year, engine size. Lets approach this logically, it saves money and effort.
We can make ignorant guesses all night but that won't help you.
how can you tell if you water pump is bad un hook the hose thats on the pump and some thing to catch the coolient and start the car if coolient flows freely and also chech the air hole on the water pump and see if you see any coolient coming out if it flows frely and no coolient can be seen comming out the air hole on the pump then your problem lies else where if the block was crack or the head your engine would still drink coolient so there it would still be milky try checking you electric fan and your coolint temp sensor
How old is the car? Radiators can and do fill up with sediment over time.
if you had work done on the car it could be an air lock in the heater core. try bringing the car to operating temp and turn the heater on then squeeze the hoses with the rad cap off (leave the cap while it warms up if you don't want to be burned.). you could also try puting the car on a incline and decline and doing the same thing. when you do that you have to make sure that the thermostat has opened otherwise you may not have much luck.
one time I had this problem. it turned out that the seal between the engine block (lower part of engine) and the engine head (upper part of engine) was so old and deteriorated the it was leaking both oil and antifreeze so because the engine didn't get enough lubrication from the oil it got too hot and there wasn't enough antifreeze to cool it off, it finally got way too hot and busted the gasket totally and so the car had to be towed. It's not a good thing to let go on like that. If you know a good reliable %26quot;shade tree mechanic%26quot; he can try the following things and shouldn't cost you as much as a shop would charge:
1. have him go to a salvage yard and get a used water pump and see if when he replaces yours that it solves the problem....if not,
2. have him take off the engine head and replace the head gasket.
One or the other should do it. Good Luck!
The best and easiest way to see if water pump is operating correctly is to take off the radiator cap, start engine and see if water is moving through the radiator. You should be able to see the water anti-freeze flowing through the radiator. Give it about five minutes running you should know by then.
My car is getting hot . Can anyone help?
Your water pump is probably good if it isn't leaking or squealing or shuddering. Trust me they can. Make sure you have a good 50/50 anti freeze mix. Something else you can do is take the car down to the car wash and using rinse only power wash the exterior of the radiator. My 92 Buick was overheating and I was surprised when I washed out the radiator fins. Ran dirty water for 10 minutes, I lived on a dirt road at the time. It runs alot happier. Something else, if your car has an electric cooling fan the temp switch on the radiator may not be working or the fan. Turning on the A.C. should turn on the fans on most cars. Next time you run hot open the hood and see if the fan(s) are turning.
My car is getting hot . Can anyone help?
This question sounds dirty. The first thng is that if u are checking out ur car, u need to get laid. 2nd, if u decide to bang ur car, u don't have to worry cuz u changed the hoses. she cant get pregnant now. 3rd, if ur radiator is leaking, i would see a doctor. good thing it isnt. 4th, if ur oil isnt milky, u need to get a sperm count check. this might also help u find out if ur water pump is bad lol. do u still empty ur water pump every day?
if water pump start leaking , it needs replacement.
did you check that the fan is working , if its automatic , electrical connection might be loose
if the diaphram goes out it will pee water somewhere under it on the block..there'll be a stain..or you'll see it leaking... or take it to a mech...
Hold on there Maverick!
Before you go running into any more furniture, What model, make, year, engine size. Lets approach this logically, it saves money and effort.
We can make ignorant guesses all night but that won't help you.
how can you tell if you water pump is bad un hook the hose thats on the pump and some thing to catch the coolient and start the car if coolient flows freely and also chech the air hole on the water pump and see if you see any coolient coming out if it flows frely and no coolient can be seen comming out the air hole on the pump then your problem lies else where if the block was crack or the head your engine would still drink coolient so there it would still be milky try checking you electric fan and your coolint temp sensor
How old is the car? Radiators can and do fill up with sediment over time.
if you had work done on the car it could be an air lock in the heater core. try bringing the car to operating temp and turn the heater on then squeeze the hoses with the rad cap off (leave the cap while it warms up if you don't want to be burned.). you could also try puting the car on a incline and decline and doing the same thing. when you do that you have to make sure that the thermostat has opened otherwise you may not have much luck.
one time I had this problem. it turned out that the seal between the engine block (lower part of engine) and the engine head (upper part of engine) was so old and deteriorated the it was leaking both oil and antifreeze so because the engine didn't get enough lubrication from the oil it got too hot and there wasn't enough antifreeze to cool it off, it finally got way too hot and busted the gasket totally and so the car had to be towed. It's not a good thing to let go on like that. If you know a good reliable %26quot;shade tree mechanic%26quot; he can try the following things and shouldn't cost you as much as a shop would charge:
1. have him go to a salvage yard and get a used water pump and see if when he replaces yours that it solves the problem....if not,
2. have him take off the engine head and replace the head gasket.
One or the other should do it. Good Luck!
The best and easiest way to see if water pump is operating correctly is to take off the radiator cap, start engine and see if water is moving through the radiator. You should be able to see the water anti-freeze flowing through the radiator. Give it about five minutes running you should know by then.
How do I replace the power steering main pressure hose in a 1990 Honda Accord?
What tools will I need to replace the main powersteering pressure hose and what are the steps to replace it? I am not a mechanic but I am familiar with changing oil for my car, replacing radiator fan, replacing thermostat, replacing fuel filter, replacing air filter, etc. With my level of expertise, how much more difficult is it to replace the main pressure hose for the powersteering? Do I have to drain the fluid first? Should I wrap up the alternator to avoid spills into it? etc.
How do I replace the power steering main pressure hose in a 1990 Honda Accord?
the only special tools you'll need is a 14mm flare nut wrench.
start by draining the fluid. You do this by removing the return hose from the power steering reservoir (the hose that does not go to the power steering pump) and place the end into a suitable container such as an old 2 litre soda bottle.
have someone hold the bottle out of the way from the engine drive belts fo that it is at or below the level of the power steering reservir. Remove the cap from the power steering reservoir.
Then start the engine and slowly turn the steering wheel all the way to one side and hold it there for the count of 5. Then slowly turn it fully to the other side and hold it. Do this three or four times and the fluid will have been pumped out of the system. Stop as soon as the fluid flow becomes slight or stops so that you don't damage the pump.
Then you can remove the pressure line from the back of the power steering pump. it has a special banjo fitting but no special tool is required to remove the nut. I think its probably a 10 mm but I'm not sure.
with the hose removed from the pump end, raise the front of the car up. you'll have to get under the car and locate the steering gear. It will be attached to the rear engine bulkhead and have four steel lines going into the control valve. The pressure line has a 14 mm nut. the return line has a 17mm nut. the other two lines are for the power steering cooler. If the cooler lines are the same as the pressure line you'll have to figure out which line is the pressure line by following the hose back from the pump.
use the flare nut wrench so that you don't damage the fitting. Once you break it loose you can usually remove the fitting by hand and then remove the hose. I recommend wearing safety glasses because there may be residual fluid that comes out and you don't want to get that in your eyes.
replace the hose by routing the hose between the pump and the steering gear, then threading in the fitting to the steering rack first then tightening the fitting with the flare nut wrench. then connect the steering hose to the pump end using the special bolt that you removed earlier.
With the hose in place, reconnect the return hose to the reservoir, fill the reservoir with fluid and bleed the air out of the system by starting the engine and following the same procedure you used to remove the fluid from the system at the start. top off the fluid level to the full mark, and check for leaks. If no leaks, then your done.
As long as you have the right tools and some patience you should be able to do this.
hope that answers your questions
How do I replace the power steering main pressure hose in a 1990 Honda Accord?
the only special tools you'll need is a 14mm flare nut wrench.
start by draining the fluid. You do this by removing the return hose from the power steering reservoir (the hose that does not go to the power steering pump) and place the end into a suitable container such as an old 2 litre soda bottle.
have someone hold the bottle out of the way from the engine drive belts fo that it is at or below the level of the power steering reservir. Remove the cap from the power steering reservoir.
Then start the engine and slowly turn the steering wheel all the way to one side and hold it there for the count of 5. Then slowly turn it fully to the other side and hold it. Do this three or four times and the fluid will have been pumped out of the system. Stop as soon as the fluid flow becomes slight or stops so that you don't damage the pump.
Then you can remove the pressure line from the back of the power steering pump. it has a special banjo fitting but no special tool is required to remove the nut. I think its probably a 10 mm but I'm not sure.
with the hose removed from the pump end, raise the front of the car up. you'll have to get under the car and locate the steering gear. It will be attached to the rear engine bulkhead and have four steel lines going into the control valve. The pressure line has a 14 mm nut. the return line has a 17mm nut. the other two lines are for the power steering cooler. If the cooler lines are the same as the pressure line you'll have to figure out which line is the pressure line by following the hose back from the pump.
use the flare nut wrench so that you don't damage the fitting. Once you break it loose you can usually remove the fitting by hand and then remove the hose. I recommend wearing safety glasses because there may be residual fluid that comes out and you don't want to get that in your eyes.
replace the hose by routing the hose between the pump and the steering gear, then threading in the fitting to the steering rack first then tightening the fitting with the flare nut wrench. then connect the steering hose to the pump end using the special bolt that you removed earlier.
With the hose in place, reconnect the return hose to the reservoir, fill the reservoir with fluid and bleed the air out of the system by starting the engine and following the same procedure you used to remove the fluid from the system at the start. top off the fluid level to the full mark, and check for leaks. If no leaks, then your done.
As long as you have the right tools and some patience you should be able to do this.
hope that answers your questions
1990 Toyota Celica GT spits out water and over heats once in a while!!!?
My celica overheats by throwing out all of the water from the radiator, I have changed many hoses, thermostat, water pump and that's pretty much it. And every other month when I go long distance the Radiator will throw all the water out from the coolant bottle. What can the problem be?
1990 Toyota Celica GT spits out water and over heats once in a while!!!?
if you go to a garage and ask them to do a compression check ( bettr off scheduling it first) should take a 1/2 hr or so..
you may find that you have a blown head gasket,it may also require a pressurize coolent check ( very simple for them to do ).
If it is a blown head gasket... you'll have to decide if the car is worth the money to repair,it will cost you more in time/labor then the actual cost of the parts. but no one wants to work for free..agreed ??
best of luck
1990 Toyota Celica GT spits out water and over heats once in a while!!!?
have you tried a stop leak on the coolant system. Those work great to clog any leak in the system
First thing, check to see if you have water in the oil. If the oil is milky colored, water is leaking into the cylinders probably from a cracked head or blown head gasket. If the oil is not milky and you aren't leaking any coolant, check to be sure the radiator fan is cycling on and off properly. My best guess is that you need a new radiator. If the car only overheats under load after extended driving, your radiator is probably clogged up to the point that it doesn't have sufficient cooling capacity to meet your engine's needs at highway speeds.
I had a similar problem with my 1990 Honda Civic. I thought the head was cracked even though I had no oil in the water. I pulled the head and had it checked - it was fine. I went ahead and overhauled the engine since I had already come this far and it was a high mileage engine. The water pump was in great condition, no coolant leaks anywhere. Got my freshly rebuilt engine all set, tuned, ready to go. Took it for a test drive and, presto, still overheating. I put a new radiator in and now it runs cool as a cucumber.
I agree with the first answer it might be a leak in your coolant system. If the water is popping out the top then that just means you really need to take breaks during long drives. If it over heats to the point that it's dripping off the cap then your head gasket could blow at any moment.
For a Celica it's a grand to fix the head gasket and even then it could blow again by what you're describing. More coolant would be helpful or turning the heater on while driving to cool the engine.extension to sqltableprovider creating file
1990 Toyota Celica GT spits out water and over heats once in a while!!!?
if you go to a garage and ask them to do a compression check ( bettr off scheduling it first) should take a 1/2 hr or so..
you may find that you have a blown head gasket,it may also require a pressurize coolent check ( very simple for them to do ).
If it is a blown head gasket... you'll have to decide if the car is worth the money to repair,it will cost you more in time/labor then the actual cost of the parts. but no one wants to work for free..agreed ??
best of luck
1990 Toyota Celica GT spits out water and over heats once in a while!!!?
have you tried a stop leak on the coolant system. Those work great to clog any leak in the system
First thing, check to see if you have water in the oil. If the oil is milky colored, water is leaking into the cylinders probably from a cracked head or blown head gasket. If the oil is not milky and you aren't leaking any coolant, check to be sure the radiator fan is cycling on and off properly. My best guess is that you need a new radiator. If the car only overheats under load after extended driving, your radiator is probably clogged up to the point that it doesn't have sufficient cooling capacity to meet your engine's needs at highway speeds.
I had a similar problem with my 1990 Honda Civic. I thought the head was cracked even though I had no oil in the water. I pulled the head and had it checked - it was fine. I went ahead and overhauled the engine since I had already come this far and it was a high mileage engine. The water pump was in great condition, no coolant leaks anywhere. Got my freshly rebuilt engine all set, tuned, ready to go. Took it for a test drive and, presto, still overheating. I put a new radiator in and now it runs cool as a cucumber.
I agree with the first answer it might be a leak in your coolant system. If the water is popping out the top then that just means you really need to take breaks during long drives. If it over heats to the point that it's dripping off the cap then your head gasket could blow at any moment.
For a Celica it's a grand to fix the head gasket and even then it could blow again by what you're describing. More coolant would be helpful or turning the heater on while driving to cool the engine.
96 Honda ex over heating problem?
i changed my headgasket and got the head milled...also changed the thermistat .... and i am still over heating... their is a lot of presser in the radiator hoses.. does any one know the promblem?
96 Honda ex over heating problem?
i would say first check your water pump, then check the clutch on your fan
96 Honda ex over heating problem?
it's thermostat...and take it to someone who knows what they're doing and have it looked it.
The coolant pasages in the block might be clogeed
did you bleed the air outa the bleeder valve which is by the throttle body...you may have air lock... does it overheat when AC is on vs off? the upper radiator hose always has a ton of pressure. also replace/check the rad cap.. i have a 95 accord with 256K miles so am familiar with it. also check superhonda.com FORUM
with the work you have performed, the only conclusion is the radiator is not circulating. You can try a flush, if that doesnt work with the pressure you experience, the go to a junk yard and get another radiator. Though used, they do have areurn policy and are much cheaper than new.
Well start with the basics. Are your cooling fans working? and is the thermistat you put in working and put in the correct way? After that its time for the next leve of trouble shooting... and that means you could have a cracked head or the head gasket wasn't but on proberly.
You can start by seeing if you get a smell of antifreeze from the exhaust pipe (bad thing). You should also look in the overflow tank of the car. Make sure its at least half full of water and then look for bubbles while the car is running (if you see them its bad).
If either of the above happened then you either have a crack in the head or the gasket wasn't put on properly. You can take the head off again and look for any signs of water leaking past the gasket. If that looks fine then have your head x-rayed, sometimes the head wasn't just warped sometimes its got a crack that isn't easily seen.
You could have the wrong hoses if those were replaced at one point.
Check your coolant hoses and resevoir to make sure it is free of holes.
you can check out the honda website too, for a honda dealership nearest to you, they may be able to troubleshoot the problem for free.
water pump-change the timing belt while ur at it
--good luck
96 Honda ex over heating problem?
i would say first check your water pump, then check the clutch on your fan
96 Honda ex over heating problem?
it's thermostat...and take it to someone who knows what they're doing and have it looked it.
The coolant pasages in the block might be clogeed
did you bleed the air outa the bleeder valve which is by the throttle body...you may have air lock... does it overheat when AC is on vs off? the upper radiator hose always has a ton of pressure. also replace/check the rad cap.. i have a 95 accord with 256K miles so am familiar with it. also check superhonda.com FORUM
with the work you have performed, the only conclusion is the radiator is not circulating. You can try a flush, if that doesnt work with the pressure you experience, the go to a junk yard and get another radiator. Though used, they do have areurn policy and are much cheaper than new.
Well start with the basics. Are your cooling fans working? and is the thermistat you put in working and put in the correct way? After that its time for the next leve of trouble shooting... and that means you could have a cracked head or the head gasket wasn't but on proberly.
You can start by seeing if you get a smell of antifreeze from the exhaust pipe (bad thing). You should also look in the overflow tank of the car. Make sure its at least half full of water and then look for bubbles while the car is running (if you see them its bad).
If either of the above happened then you either have a crack in the head or the gasket wasn't put on properly. You can take the head off again and look for any signs of water leaking past the gasket. If that looks fine then have your head x-rayed, sometimes the head wasn't just warped sometimes its got a crack that isn't easily seen.
You could have the wrong hoses if those were replaced at one point.
Check your coolant hoses and resevoir to make sure it is free of holes.
you can check out the honda website too, for a honda dealership nearest to you, they may be able to troubleshoot the problem for free.
water pump-change the timing belt while ur at it
--good luck
Thursday, October 6, 2011
My car is a lincoln ls 2000 v8 i replace everything but the motor & still overheating mekanic say is not motor?
i change waterpump, hoses, tank assem. termostat, clean radiator, over heat in about 20/30 mile range but the tank over heated is holding alot of air press they told me is a motor head, the fan, the tank cap, catalic conberter i don't know what to do next or eater the motor or just junk the car what do you recomend
My car is a lincoln ls 2000 v8 i replace everything but the motor %26amp; still overheating mekanic say is not motor?
Replace the mechanic. It's obvious she has no idea what she's doing...
My car is a lincoln ls 2000 v8 i replace everything but the motor %26amp; still overheating mekanic say is not motor?
Replace the mechanic. It's obvious she has no idea what she's doing...
Changing head / Coolant question...?
Changing the head in a 2000 Jeep Cherokee. Has the infamous crack... My question:
If I pull the bottom hose off the radiator will it drain the block enough for me to get the head off? Should I pull the hose and run it for a minute or two with the heater on? Any advice is appreciated!
Changing head / Coolant question...?
I just did the head gasket last week on my 99 cherokee 4.0L I6. Taking the lower hose off and letting it run out was enough for me. If you have any questions on taking the head out let me know. Taking the bottom row of bolts off the exhaust/intake manifold is a PITA (i just pulled out the head and manifolds together). Also, the head bolt closest to the firewall is gona be a pain to take out (you have to cut around the firewall lip of lower the engine off the mounts an inch or two). Good luck, take your time and have fun with it.
Changing head / Coolant question...?
As long as the other end of hose(water pump) is lower than the head it will drain to that point.
yes just pull the bottom hose dont really need to run it though can if you want just dont run it for more than 30 seconds though
save some trouble and drain the radiator, disconnecting the water inlet hose will drain the radiator anyway, won't take much to get coolant level below head gasket
When someone asks a question like this and doesn't realize that the drain plug on the radiator is LOWER than the lower radiator hose, I wonder how they will pull and change a head, not an easy job even for an experienced mechanic.
Good luck.
If I pull the bottom hose off the radiator will it drain the block enough for me to get the head off? Should I pull the hose and run it for a minute or two with the heater on? Any advice is appreciated!
Changing head / Coolant question...?
I just did the head gasket last week on my 99 cherokee 4.0L I6. Taking the lower hose off and letting it run out was enough for me. If you have any questions on taking the head out let me know. Taking the bottom row of bolts off the exhaust/intake manifold is a PITA (i just pulled out the head and manifolds together). Also, the head bolt closest to the firewall is gona be a pain to take out (you have to cut around the firewall lip of lower the engine off the mounts an inch or two). Good luck, take your time and have fun with it.
Changing head / Coolant question...?
As long as the other end of hose(water pump) is lower than the head it will drain to that point.
yes just pull the bottom hose dont really need to run it though can if you want just dont run it for more than 30 seconds though
save some trouble and drain the radiator, disconnecting the water inlet hose will drain the radiator anyway, won't take much to get coolant level below head gasket
When someone asks a question like this and doesn't realize that the drain plug on the radiator is LOWER than the lower radiator hose, I wonder how they will pull and change a head, not an easy job even for an experienced mechanic.
Good luck.
What's wrong with my car? Can someone help to shine some light on the subject? Thanks for reading.?
Some basic info first: 2005 Nissan Sentra 1.8 S/1.8 Liter
80,000 miles. Live in South Florida (it it matters).
The engine won't cool. When I am driving slow or in idle I see it move to the exterme high (hot) end. Then it comes back down to normal. Up and down.
I was driving on the interstate today the temp gague went to high and the engine lost power. First it bucked a little causing the check engine light to come on. It didn't stall, but was close to it.
I believe the problem is somewhere in the cooling system.
If you care I will give a little more detail:
A brief history, it may help to understand the point I am trying to make. About 8 months ago or so I began noticing the A/C wasn't cooling all of the time as it should. It was blowing almost warm air. It wasn't as cold as it should have been.
About 4 months things started happening. The temp. gauge started to go up as the engine was getting hot. It got very high, so I pulled over and waited for it cool down some. The coolant in the reserve tank was boiling. I did this about 4 times (Each time the coolant was boiling) trying to get home. About 10 minutes later I was driving and things looked ok then it got hot again and the engine buck a little causing the check engine to come on. At that time the car lost power. It didn't stall, just lost power. I pressed on the gas and nothing. I notice the RPM was flicking between 2K and 3K. I pulled over turned off the car for a few minutes. Afterwards it started up and ran fine. By the time I got home the engine lost power 2 times-each time I had to pull over and wait. All of the time I pulled over the coolant in the reserve was boiling and of course the temp gauge was hot.
When I made it home I waited until it cool down. There was no coolant in the radiator. It was bone dry. There weren't any leaks anywhere and never was. Nothing was sprayed on to the engine. The reserve tank was in between the min a max line. I filled the radiator with coolant. Afterwards it was fine. It wasn't getting hot anymore. My AC was even working fine after that. It's blowing cold air like it should.
About 2 months ago I was driving and the temp gage started moving again. I was at a red light and the high pressure (top radiator hose) hose popped off. I was able to put it back on and the coolant in the reserve tank started to boil again. But now the reserve tank is over the max line. The radiator was dry again. I put in more coolant and like the last time it seemed to had fix the problem. Still no leaks. A week after that the temp gage goes up and down. It goes high in idle or slow driving, back down at normal speeds. Sometimes the AC becomes warm when the temp goes up.
3 weeks ago I got the raditor and cooling system flushed by professionals. The next couple of days nothing was going on with the temp. After 3 of 4 days it started up again---up and down goes the temp gage. About 2 weeks ago, after experience some of the same problems the engine almost stalled out. I turned off the car and restarted it and it ran fine. After it cooled for awhile the top radiator pressure hose was flatten- squezzed together. That happened once. Even since that time it appears to be normal.
For the past month: After I turn off the car I can hear coolant in the high pressure (top of radiator) hose trying to escape. It is a bubbling type sound in the hose. The coolant in the reserve tank smokes when the lid is taken off, but it isn't boling liked it did. Also, it is above the max line. After awhile the coolant will go below the min line. The hotter it is outside the more problems it'll have.
P.S.-- The check engine light usually goes off by itself after 3 days or up to a week. When the engine gets high and bucks the light comes back on.
I was thinking about getting a new hose and changing the thermostat. What can be the problem? Thanks again for reading.
What's wrong with my car? Can someone help to shine some light on the subject? Thanks for reading.?
The thermostat would have been the first thing I would have replaced at the very first sign of overheating. It's a lot cheaper than replacing an engine.
First you need to do a compression check. This is necessary to make sure you still have a good engine.
Then do a cooling system pressure check.
Then if those two check out, replace the thermostat and radiator hoses.
Refill the coolant using the proper fill procedure to eliminate air bubbles in the system and do a pressure check.
One more thing.
Check the fan.
What's wrong with my car? Can someone help to shine some light on the subject? Thanks for reading.?
Well, that means that something is punctured and your coolant is leaking out. I wouldn't be able to tell from here, but you should take it to the shop as soon as possible and get the part replaced. Don't simply try to patch it up, because if you do, it'd only be temporary. Did you try adding more coolant in there? See any leaks?
It could be the hose, or it could be the radiator. See if you can see any signs on a leakage or previous leakage when you look under your hood.
u can only change thermostat and make sure cooling fan coming on check drive belts [if it drives water pump ] but i woul say you have blown the head gasket or cracked cylinder head because not rectified straight away when problem started [hope just thermostat but doubt it]
you hav eather a bad radiator notalowing enough coolant trew (not so likely) most likely is the water pump ac will have nothing to do with it overheating except when the ac is on ur engin runs just a lil hotter(ac condencer getting warm) but you need to start it up when its cold with the radiator cap off sit there n rev it up from 800 rps to 2 or 3000 rpms watch the water if you see it go up and down quick the pump is usually working somthing isnt alowing the proper amout of water to flow so try 1 or both of them parts
It sounds to me like your thermostat is severely stuck. It's a very easy thing to replace and they usually only run about $5. If that doesn't fix it, your water pump is blown out, in which case you need to get that replaced as soon as possible before you blow out your motor. A leaking cooling system would not cause the engine to overhead this bad. Have you checked to make sure that there is coolant in the system?
Watch this, I'm going to read your mind . . .
This is related to that squealing noise you're hearing sometimes after you start your car.
You've got a bad water pump and the coolant is leaking, actually it sounds more like running, out of the weeping hole.
The warm A/C is a common symptom of a car that's overheating. That brings me to my next point, STOP OVERHEATING YOUR ENGINE!!! It can, and will, cause permanent, irreversible engine damage. It wouldn't be uncommon at all to seize your entire engine as you drive it with the temp gauge in the red and that'd mean it's time for a new car. Next time your temp gauge gets near the red, pull over and turn off the engine immediately! The check engine light and the bucking and loss of power are all death throes, you were VERY close to ruining that engine over a $300 water pump repair. You've likely damaged your head gasket and possibly valve cover gasket due to the repeated overheating too.
80,000 miles. Live in South Florida (it it matters).
The engine won't cool. When I am driving slow or in idle I see it move to the exterme high (hot) end. Then it comes back down to normal. Up and down.
I was driving on the interstate today the temp gague went to high and the engine lost power. First it bucked a little causing the check engine light to come on. It didn't stall, but was close to it.
I believe the problem is somewhere in the cooling system.
If you care I will give a little more detail:
A brief history, it may help to understand the point I am trying to make. About 8 months ago or so I began noticing the A/C wasn't cooling all of the time as it should. It was blowing almost warm air. It wasn't as cold as it should have been.
About 4 months things started happening. The temp. gauge started to go up as the engine was getting hot. It got very high, so I pulled over and waited for it cool down some. The coolant in the reserve tank was boiling. I did this about 4 times (Each time the coolant was boiling) trying to get home. About 10 minutes later I was driving and things looked ok then it got hot again and the engine buck a little causing the check engine to come on. At that time the car lost power. It didn't stall, just lost power. I pressed on the gas and nothing. I notice the RPM was flicking between 2K and 3K. I pulled over turned off the car for a few minutes. Afterwards it started up and ran fine. By the time I got home the engine lost power 2 times-each time I had to pull over and wait. All of the time I pulled over the coolant in the reserve was boiling and of course the temp gauge was hot.
When I made it home I waited until it cool down. There was no coolant in the radiator. It was bone dry. There weren't any leaks anywhere and never was. Nothing was sprayed on to the engine. The reserve tank was in between the min a max line. I filled the radiator with coolant. Afterwards it was fine. It wasn't getting hot anymore. My AC was even working fine after that. It's blowing cold air like it should.
About 2 months ago I was driving and the temp gage started moving again. I was at a red light and the high pressure (top radiator hose) hose popped off. I was able to put it back on and the coolant in the reserve tank started to boil again. But now the reserve tank is over the max line. The radiator was dry again. I put in more coolant and like the last time it seemed to had fix the problem. Still no leaks. A week after that the temp gage goes up and down. It goes high in idle or slow driving, back down at normal speeds. Sometimes the AC becomes warm when the temp goes up.
3 weeks ago I got the raditor and cooling system flushed by professionals. The next couple of days nothing was going on with the temp. After 3 of 4 days it started up again---up and down goes the temp gage. About 2 weeks ago, after experience some of the same problems the engine almost stalled out. I turned off the car and restarted it and it ran fine. After it cooled for awhile the top radiator pressure hose was flatten- squezzed together. That happened once. Even since that time it appears to be normal.
For the past month: After I turn off the car I can hear coolant in the high pressure (top of radiator) hose trying to escape. It is a bubbling type sound in the hose. The coolant in the reserve tank smokes when the lid is taken off, but it isn't boling liked it did. Also, it is above the max line. After awhile the coolant will go below the min line. The hotter it is outside the more problems it'll have.
P.S.-- The check engine light usually goes off by itself after 3 days or up to a week. When the engine gets high and bucks the light comes back on.
I was thinking about getting a new hose and changing the thermostat. What can be the problem? Thanks again for reading.
What's wrong with my car? Can someone help to shine some light on the subject? Thanks for reading.?
The thermostat would have been the first thing I would have replaced at the very first sign of overheating. It's a lot cheaper than replacing an engine.
First you need to do a compression check. This is necessary to make sure you still have a good engine.
Then do a cooling system pressure check.
Then if those two check out, replace the thermostat and radiator hoses.
Refill the coolant using the proper fill procedure to eliminate air bubbles in the system and do a pressure check.
One more thing.
Check the fan.
What's wrong with my car? Can someone help to shine some light on the subject? Thanks for reading.?
Well, that means that something is punctured and your coolant is leaking out. I wouldn't be able to tell from here, but you should take it to the shop as soon as possible and get the part replaced. Don't simply try to patch it up, because if you do, it'd only be temporary. Did you try adding more coolant in there? See any leaks?
It could be the hose, or it could be the radiator. See if you can see any signs on a leakage or previous leakage when you look under your hood.
u can only change thermostat and make sure cooling fan coming on check drive belts [if it drives water pump ] but i woul say you have blown the head gasket or cracked cylinder head because not rectified straight away when problem started [hope just thermostat but doubt it]
you hav eather a bad radiator notalowing enough coolant trew (not so likely) most likely is the water pump ac will have nothing to do with it overheating except when the ac is on ur engin runs just a lil hotter(ac condencer getting warm) but you need to start it up when its cold with the radiator cap off sit there n rev it up from 800 rps to 2 or 3000 rpms watch the water if you see it go up and down quick the pump is usually working somthing isnt alowing the proper amout of water to flow so try 1 or both of them parts
It sounds to me like your thermostat is severely stuck. It's a very easy thing to replace and they usually only run about $5. If that doesn't fix it, your water pump is blown out, in which case you need to get that replaced as soon as possible before you blow out your motor. A leaking cooling system would not cause the engine to overhead this bad. Have you checked to make sure that there is coolant in the system?
Watch this, I'm going to read your mind . . .
This is related to that squealing noise you're hearing sometimes after you start your car.
You've got a bad water pump and the coolant is leaking, actually it sounds more like running, out of the weeping hole.
The warm A/C is a common symptom of a car that's overheating. That brings me to my next point, STOP OVERHEATING YOUR ENGINE!!! It can, and will, cause permanent, irreversible engine damage. It wouldn't be uncommon at all to seize your entire engine as you drive it with the temp gauge in the red and that'd mean it's time for a new car. Next time your temp gauge gets near the red, pull over and turn off the engine immediately! The check engine light and the bucking and loss of power are all death throes, you were VERY close to ruining that engine over a $300 water pump repair. You've likely damaged your head gasket and possibly valve cover gasket due to the repeated overheating too.
Please Help!! vehicle is not running right, barely running.?
I have a 1995 Chevy Blazer with a 4.3 liter engine that started idling rough, then the service engine light came on a couple of times. The service engine light is off now, seems to reset once vehicle is turned off %26amp; back on, so I can't get a reading. Now it keeps dying at slow speeds, does better at high speeds. I tried gas treatment %26amp; that seemed to help for about a day. I have replaced fuel filter. Thinking maybe Oxygen sensor or fuel pump. I don't think it has a EGR valve. I have changed out upper %26amp; lower radiator hoses, heater hose, thermostat, anti-freeze %26amp; belt. 2 freeze plugs were bad. Just got this vehicle a few months ago, as is. The radio had been pulled out %26amp; had to rewire vehicle because of the way they removed the anti theift device. Can't afford another vehicle, but can't keep pouring money into this one. Could it be plugs %26amp; wires? Please help with any suggestions you might have. Trying to fix it myself.
Please Help!! vehicle is not running right, barely running.?
yea, its got a egr valve, maybe its all carboned up. i would try a new set of plugs and wires to start out with, maybe a new cap and rotor too, also something else will do that too, clean out the throttle body inside.i know exactly what you mean about cant afford another vehicle, iam the same way. i would try those things and maybe throw a timing light on it too, if its possible.
Please Help!! vehicle is not running right, barely running.?
it is most likely an o2 sensor
you might check the speed sensor
Have you looked at your air filter? kinda small but could be the cause..
some times it is cheaper to have one repaired than it is to just keep changing unnecessary parts trying to fix one. You might want to have a diagnostics check run own it. this might cost you 30-50 dollars but may end up saving you money in the long run good luck
sure it could be.... guessing you need to get your self a book and learn more... dont guess fuel pump if its bad its bad you will know it it will not run at all..... does sound like fuel maybe put im not there to listen so plugs could be.. and really plugs and a oil change is the first thing i do when i get a new car to drive thats just a give me thing.. not knowing who or when they was done last... make that the first thing to replace when starting over... so your kind of working backward.... you should have giving it a good tuneup when you got it and a oil change...... go have a scan run on it and you might fine the problem then fix it
as old as the vehicle is check timing chain, if it's ok, change the MAP sensor ,TPS sensor, ldle control valve, and a tune-up don't give up now your almost there Good-Luckget your ex girlfriend back2 what love song would you dedicate to
Please Help!! vehicle is not running right, barely running.?
yea, its got a egr valve, maybe its all carboned up. i would try a new set of plugs and wires to start out with, maybe a new cap and rotor too, also something else will do that too, clean out the throttle body inside.i know exactly what you mean about cant afford another vehicle, iam the same way. i would try those things and maybe throw a timing light on it too, if its possible.
Please Help!! vehicle is not running right, barely running.?
it is most likely an o2 sensor
you might check the speed sensor
Have you looked at your air filter? kinda small but could be the cause..
some times it is cheaper to have one repaired than it is to just keep changing unnecessary parts trying to fix one. You might want to have a diagnostics check run own it. this might cost you 30-50 dollars but may end up saving you money in the long run good luck
sure it could be.... guessing you need to get your self a book and learn more... dont guess fuel pump if its bad its bad you will know it it will not run at all..... does sound like fuel maybe put im not there to listen so plugs could be.. and really plugs and a oil change is the first thing i do when i get a new car to drive thats just a give me thing.. not knowing who or when they was done last... make that the first thing to replace when starting over... so your kind of working backward.... you should have giving it a good tuneup when you got it and a oil change...... go have a scan run on it and you might fine the problem then fix it
as old as the vehicle is check timing chain, if it's ok, change the MAP sensor ,TPS sensor, ldle control valve, and a tune-up don't give up now your almost there Good-Luck
Well well it was the Radiator after all!!?
Ok this am I took my car to sears there is approx 5 in crack on the radiator, when the guy squeezed the hose you can see the coolant coming out. What is your take on repairs, should I get a used radiator, buy the temp seal, or replace with a brand new one. MORE IMPORTANTLY could this have cracked when they did the coolant exchange and secondly if it was a preexisting crack, would they have seen some leakage at the time of doing the exchange...Thats what I really want to know...
Here is the hx from my first post
have a 95 Toyota Camry V4. The other day my car overheated. There was smoke coming from below the hood and the temp gage was at the H level. When I looked at the coolant tank it was empty. So I filled water and coolant in the radiator. About 6 days later I checked the tank again it was empty. So I filled the tank part with coolant about 3 hours later and a 15 min drive later (to some stores) I looked at the tank and it was halfway gone (i filled it to the line). I find it strange that it took 6 days to empty completely but not even 2-3 hours for it to go half way full. So I am wondering if the car is getting worse. I havent had another overheating and the temp gage has been at the middle level. I am wondering what the problem is and what you think the repairs might cost. I am a woman and I have always had a hard time with auto shops because they always seem to take advantage, and tell me that there is so many things wrong with the car. I just want to go in prepared. Thanks
Additional Details
18 hours ago
BTW how safe is it to drive like this? I mean as long as I check the coolant tank. I cant afford repairs this minute. And should I fill that tank with coolant or water. Thanks
17 hours ago
Oh yeah on July 10th I went to sears and purchased a package deal that inlcuded a coolant exhange, fuel system cleaning and oil change. If there was a crack, leak etc... would they have seen/determined this when they did the coolant exchange??? On my invoice it is says belts, leakage, pressure cap, hoses other all are check off and no recommedation are suggested, and that was done on July 10th is it possible for whatever to go wrong so soon after that. Again I never had a problem with overheating before
Well well it was the Radiator after all!!?
If you keep the coolant level full enough to not overheat, it wouldn't harm your engine. But with a 5%26quot; crack in your radiator it is not going to stay full even without driving your car and building heat and pressure in the cooling system. You need to replace the radiator then add coolant but until you fix the leak use only water to refill it. I run a repair shop and when I tell someone that there is something wrong with their car it is because there is something wrong with it, if your shop needs to drum up business by lying to their customers then find another one. There is more than enough repair business out there without ripping someone off.
Well well it was the Radiator after all!!?
If it were me I'd be talking to the manager at Sears about what they are going to cover on this repair. If they did a coolant exchange and reported no problem, it's not likely a 5 inch crack would suddenly and mysteriously appear shortly afterward.
I would expect them to repair what they caused by replacing the radiator.
Don't get mad or mean about it, but do tell them what you expect from them.
Here is the hx from my first post
have a 95 Toyota Camry V4. The other day my car overheated. There was smoke coming from below the hood and the temp gage was at the H level. When I looked at the coolant tank it was empty. So I filled water and coolant in the radiator. About 6 days later I checked the tank again it was empty. So I filled the tank part with coolant about 3 hours later and a 15 min drive later (to some stores) I looked at the tank and it was halfway gone (i filled it to the line). I find it strange that it took 6 days to empty completely but not even 2-3 hours for it to go half way full. So I am wondering if the car is getting worse. I havent had another overheating and the temp gage has been at the middle level. I am wondering what the problem is and what you think the repairs might cost. I am a woman and I have always had a hard time with auto shops because they always seem to take advantage, and tell me that there is so many things wrong with the car. I just want to go in prepared. Thanks
Additional Details
18 hours ago
BTW how safe is it to drive like this? I mean as long as I check the coolant tank. I cant afford repairs this minute. And should I fill that tank with coolant or water. Thanks
17 hours ago
Oh yeah on July 10th I went to sears and purchased a package deal that inlcuded a coolant exhange, fuel system cleaning and oil change. If there was a crack, leak etc... would they have seen/determined this when they did the coolant exchange??? On my invoice it is says belts, leakage, pressure cap, hoses other all are check off and no recommedation are suggested, and that was done on July 10th is it possible for whatever to go wrong so soon after that. Again I never had a problem with overheating before
Well well it was the Radiator after all!!?
If you keep the coolant level full enough to not overheat, it wouldn't harm your engine. But with a 5%26quot; crack in your radiator it is not going to stay full even without driving your car and building heat and pressure in the cooling system. You need to replace the radiator then add coolant but until you fix the leak use only water to refill it. I run a repair shop and when I tell someone that there is something wrong with their car it is because there is something wrong with it, if your shop needs to drum up business by lying to their customers then find another one. There is more than enough repair business out there without ripping someone off.
Well well it was the Radiator after all!!?
If it were me I'd be talking to the manager at Sears about what they are going to cover on this repair. If they did a coolant exchange and reported no problem, it's not likely a 5 inch crack would suddenly and mysteriously appear shortly afterward.
I would expect them to repair what they caused by replacing the radiator.
Don't get mad or mean about it, but do tell them what you expect from them.
1994 chevy blazzer no heater ?
The heater went out in it. The thermostat and the heater core have been changed. The radiator fluid hase been changed. One hose get hot and the other stays cold. any idea why its not working?
1994 chevy blazzer no heater ?
Sounds like a bad heater control value.
1994 chevy blazzer no heater ?
You might get away with having your cooling system flushed, there might be something that is plugging your heater core. A reverse flush my accomplish the same thing which you may be able to do by removing the hoses from the heater core and then using a garden hose turned on very little see if the water will come out the other side when you force the water in one side. If not there could be a problem with the heater core.
Your heater core maybe blocked. Sometimes this will happen if you use stop leak.
1994 chevy blazzer no heater ?
Sounds like a bad heater control value.
1994 chevy blazzer no heater ?
You might get away with having your cooling system flushed, there might be something that is plugging your heater core. A reverse flush my accomplish the same thing which you may be able to do by removing the hoses from the heater core and then using a garden hose turned on very little see if the water will come out the other side when you force the water in one side. If not there could be a problem with the heater core.
Your heater core maybe blocked. Sometimes this will happen if you use stop leak.
Need a mechanics opinion?
I have a Dodge Stratus. 1998. 2.5 v-6. I have a leak in an oil cooler hose near the radiator. Can these hoses be easily changed out by myself? I have minimal engine experience. Will I be able to change the hoses out without taking half the engine apart to do it?
Need a mechanics opinion?
not too hard to do if you have the car up on a rack - very difficult on the ground.
Need a mechanics opinion?
Whatsup Rick!
Hey! since this is dealing with oil, which by the way is probably one of the most important fluid in your car.
Why don't we leave this one to the pros. for now?
Might save yourself some headaches.
I recently did one identical to yours.The clamp holding the hose on simply needed to be tightened.It was a challenge to reach and took a 1/4 inch socket,turning the clamp screw about a full turn.
Need a mechanics opinion?
not too hard to do if you have the car up on a rack - very difficult on the ground.
Need a mechanics opinion?
Whatsup Rick!
Hey! since this is dealing with oil, which by the way is probably one of the most important fluid in your car.
Why don't we leave this one to the pros. for now?
Might save yourself some headaches.
I recently did one identical to yours.The clamp holding the hose on simply needed to be tightened.It was a challenge to reach and took a 1/4 inch socket,turning the clamp screw about a full turn.
Engine temp question?
I noticed tonight while I was idling in a parking lot for about 10 minutes the temp guage went really high. After I left it dropped really quick to normal. The temp outside was about 40 F. After driving around I thought I would see if this would happen again and it did. Last summer I changed the radiator, thermostat and hoses. Never noticed this before. Any ideas? It's a 96 Ford F150
Engine temp question?
a good test for the fan CLUTCH is
let engine idle after warming up, hood up
shut off engine
watch fan- if it keeps spinning, clutch is shot
if it stops abruptly, clutch is good
bad fan clutch will cause overheat
Engine temp question?
Make sure you have enough coolant in your system.
Sounds like thermostat is sticking. It blocks off water flow to the radiator till it reaches a set temperature specified by auto manufacturer.
Change your thermostat. Its going way to high before finally opening. Too many times and you will have to replace intake manifold gsasket or worse. Good luck!!
Could be a thermostat, could be a faulty fan clutch, could also be a bad radiator cap as unlikely as that may sound. Make sure your fan is spinning and it should spin faster as the truck gets warmer.
Hello what I would check for, make shure the coolant level is ok,the Radiator is not stopped up, hoses are not collapsing, the thermostat is opening up,and check the fan clutch. If the fan clutch is free Wheeling then the fan will be rotating very slowly, causing the air not to flow through the Radiator to cool the coolant in it while stopped and when you start driving air will be forced through the radiator and the coolant will cool off. Also stick a manual thermometer in the radiator to make shure the engine is getting hot. It could be the sending unite or temp Gage. hope this helps good luck
i would definately check and see if your coolant fan is working. thats what it sounds like to me.
Engine temp question?
a good test for the fan CLUTCH is
let engine idle after warming up, hood up
shut off engine
watch fan- if it keeps spinning, clutch is shot
if it stops abruptly, clutch is good
bad fan clutch will cause overheat
Engine temp question?
Make sure you have enough coolant in your system.
Sounds like thermostat is sticking. It blocks off water flow to the radiator till it reaches a set temperature specified by auto manufacturer.
Change your thermostat. Its going way to high before finally opening. Too many times and you will have to replace intake manifold gsasket or worse. Good luck!!
Could be a thermostat, could be a faulty fan clutch, could also be a bad radiator cap as unlikely as that may sound. Make sure your fan is spinning and it should spin faster as the truck gets warmer.
Hello what I would check for, make shure the coolant level is ok,the Radiator is not stopped up, hoses are not collapsing, the thermostat is opening up,and check the fan clutch. If the fan clutch is free Wheeling then the fan will be rotating very slowly, causing the air not to flow through the Radiator to cool the coolant in it while stopped and when you start driving air will be forced through the radiator and the coolant will cool off. Also stick a manual thermometer in the radiator to make shure the engine is getting hot. It could be the sending unite or temp Gage. hope this helps good luck
i would definately check and see if your coolant fan is working. thats what it sounds like to me.
I have a 96 dodge Ram van 2500. put in new radiator, since then no heat, changed thermostat still no heat.?
I checked the heater core hoses and 1 is hot and the other is luke warm. Plus there is the faint smell of coolant inside and outside the vehicle while running. Is the heater core plugged or just shot?
I have a 96 dodge Ram van 2500. put in new radiator, since then no heat, changed thermostat still no heat.?
then you know your answer heatcore is bad or plugged if you can smell coolant most likely its leaking also replace it best choice
I have a 96 dodge Ram van 2500. put in new radiator, since then no heat, changed thermostat still no heat.?
since you already replaced everything else it could be the heater core or maybe the water pump
Does the truck still get HOT on the gauge? check with the cap (radiator) off to make sure water is moving! look at water pump to see if it is leaking. also check the fan blade itself!
You can see if the core is plugged by removing hoses and try and blow air through with air hose. But be carful so you don't use to high of preassure! if air blows through freely then there is nothing wrong with the core, recheck the themostat, I have gotten %26quot;bad%26quot; new ones before!
you probly need to run it for an hour or 2 there is probly air in the line from being drained and it needs to work itself out
java hair tips
I have a 96 dodge Ram van 2500. put in new radiator, since then no heat, changed thermostat still no heat.?
then you know your answer heatcore is bad or plugged if you can smell coolant most likely its leaking also replace it best choice
I have a 96 dodge Ram van 2500. put in new radiator, since then no heat, changed thermostat still no heat.?
since you already replaced everything else it could be the heater core or maybe the water pump
Does the truck still get HOT on the gauge? check with the cap (radiator) off to make sure water is moving! look at water pump to see if it is leaking. also check the fan blade itself!
You can see if the core is plugged by removing hoses and try and blow air through with air hose. But be carful so you don't use to high of preassure! if air blows through freely then there is nothing wrong with the core, recheck the themostat, I have gotten %26quot;bad%26quot; new ones before!
you probly need to run it for an hour or 2 there is probly air in the line from being drained and it needs to work itself out
Tranmission fluid was changed now i have major problems.?
Ok, this is an update, my previous question is posted below.
---------
I've been spending a lot of time making taking care of my truck myself a new hobbie.
I've spent about a thousand dollars so far.
Myself ive changed out the water pump, hoses, radiator(it was cracked), fuel filter, air filter, brakes, brake drums, and so on....
Its very rewarding to take care of these things yourself and have the peice of mind that your vehicle is running fine.
But now....
I changed out the tranny fluid ad the tranny filter.....
There wasnt a factory gasket on there so I know it has been serviced at least once before before I got this vehicle.
But now...
After changing this fluid at 99,000 miles on my 2001 gmc jimmy 4wd....
I have lost all power in first gear.
When I put it in drive... it takes far to long to get up to speed into 2nd gear before i can take off no problem...
this sucks...
My service engine light is on now.
I called my mechanic and he told me I should have never changed the fluid.
Now, when I put it in first gear, i dont have much of a problem, just in drive.
I can put it in 1st gear and work my way up as if it were manual.
So my question is...
Where can I buy a very cheap gun to kill myself.
My mechanic told me this will cost in the thousands.
I dont have that kind of money.
I am so skrewed.
Thats what I get for taking care of business myself.
-----------
Thank you people for all your answers....
now the update....
I went to auto zone and ran a scan afte someone told me i may have just messed something electrical or such up inside the tranny pan...
i scanned it and i got...
%26quot;Shift Solenoid B Performance or stuck off.%26quot;
Thats what it read....
and the guy at autozone told me the shift solonoid was in the tranny pan.
This makes me happy.
I was so worried about having to have a mechanic drop the tranny and such....
so...
what do i do now.
I know what a solonoid is but I dont know where it is under the tranny pan.
and under the tranny pan was a lot of electrical wires and small parts i can handle but have never handled before.
what is my next step.
Thanks you guys and thanks yahoo answers.
let me just add one more thing i dont thing i made clear.
If i put my car in drive. Its a very slow and very unpowerfull get go.
But after it gets going i dont have a problem. Its the trransion from idle to actually moving up to speed.
BUT!!
when I put my car in 1st gear manually, it takes off as it should and i have no problems riding it as if it were manual switching through 1st and 3rd and such, okthxbye.
Yahoo answers is the greatest. It always helps me more than any other online resource.
Tranmission fluid was changed now i have major problems.?
Buy a service manual for your vehicle. They will outline the basics for most repairs. Next, the solonoid is the problem as it is not letting the necessary pressure through it to allow the transmission to transfer power.
Picture trying to brake without having any pressure in the brake system. Without the necessary pressure through the solonoid, the bands cannot clamp with proper force within the trans, causing slipping.
As to an Idle Air Control Valve(also know by other names) It would cause issues in all gears not just first.
Tranmission fluid was changed now i have major problems.?
For this problem, remove and clean your IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE with Gum-out. If this little guy gets dirty or stubborn, it will affect power, MPG's and shifting. Someone in my neighborhood had a similar problem with her Buick (same trans, I think). It cost around $1400 at the GM dealerr to make repairs to the solenoids involved. I would contact a GM representative and pitch a b@#$%!!!! Read my previous piece of advice, as well!!!!
I don't know where any cheap guns are but this sounds pretty drastic to me. Instead I would make sure the vacuum line is still plugged into the vacuum modulator. Also make sure the rubber hose going from the steel line to the modulator is not cracked and leaking. You might also unplug that vacuum line temporarily and put a vacuum gage on it to make sure there is a reading so you will know that it is getting vacuum.
I've had the same thing happen when I bought my Suburban. I changed the fluid and filter and the tranny went downhill. Apparently the new fluid cleaned out build up from the internal parts and deposited them elsewhere. You can try to disolve the deposits with additives, but trannies rarely heal themselves so you're probably looking at a tranny rebuild ($800-1200 plus r%26amp;r fees if you don't pull it yourself) or go find a used one and do a swap. Those trannies are not cheap as most of them get used off road and get destroyed so they are snapped up quickly. I wish that I had better news.
---------
I've been spending a lot of time making taking care of my truck myself a new hobbie.
I've spent about a thousand dollars so far.
Myself ive changed out the water pump, hoses, radiator(it was cracked), fuel filter, air filter, brakes, brake drums, and so on....
Its very rewarding to take care of these things yourself and have the peice of mind that your vehicle is running fine.
But now....
I changed out the tranny fluid ad the tranny filter.....
There wasnt a factory gasket on there so I know it has been serviced at least once before before I got this vehicle.
But now...
After changing this fluid at 99,000 miles on my 2001 gmc jimmy 4wd....
I have lost all power in first gear.
When I put it in drive... it takes far to long to get up to speed into 2nd gear before i can take off no problem...
this sucks...
My service engine light is on now.
I called my mechanic and he told me I should have never changed the fluid.
Now, when I put it in first gear, i dont have much of a problem, just in drive.
I can put it in 1st gear and work my way up as if it were manual.
So my question is...
Where can I buy a very cheap gun to kill myself.
My mechanic told me this will cost in the thousands.
I dont have that kind of money.
I am so skrewed.
Thats what I get for taking care of business myself.
-----------
Thank you people for all your answers....
now the update....
I went to auto zone and ran a scan afte someone told me i may have just messed something electrical or such up inside the tranny pan...
i scanned it and i got...
%26quot;Shift Solenoid B Performance or stuck off.%26quot;
Thats what it read....
and the guy at autozone told me the shift solonoid was in the tranny pan.
This makes me happy.
I was so worried about having to have a mechanic drop the tranny and such....
so...
what do i do now.
I know what a solonoid is but I dont know where it is under the tranny pan.
and under the tranny pan was a lot of electrical wires and small parts i can handle but have never handled before.
what is my next step.
Thanks you guys and thanks yahoo answers.
let me just add one more thing i dont thing i made clear.
If i put my car in drive. Its a very slow and very unpowerfull get go.
But after it gets going i dont have a problem. Its the trransion from idle to actually moving up to speed.
BUT!!
when I put my car in 1st gear manually, it takes off as it should and i have no problems riding it as if it were manual switching through 1st and 3rd and such, okthxbye.
Yahoo answers is the greatest. It always helps me more than any other online resource.
Tranmission fluid was changed now i have major problems.?
Buy a service manual for your vehicle. They will outline the basics for most repairs. Next, the solonoid is the problem as it is not letting the necessary pressure through it to allow the transmission to transfer power.
Picture trying to brake without having any pressure in the brake system. Without the necessary pressure through the solonoid, the bands cannot clamp with proper force within the trans, causing slipping.
As to an Idle Air Control Valve(also know by other names) It would cause issues in all gears not just first.
Tranmission fluid was changed now i have major problems.?
For this problem, remove and clean your IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE with Gum-out. If this little guy gets dirty or stubborn, it will affect power, MPG's and shifting. Someone in my neighborhood had a similar problem with her Buick (same trans, I think). It cost around $1400 at the GM dealerr to make repairs to the solenoids involved. I would contact a GM representative and pitch a b@#$%!!!! Read my previous piece of advice, as well!!!!
I don't know where any cheap guns are but this sounds pretty drastic to me. Instead I would make sure the vacuum line is still plugged into the vacuum modulator. Also make sure the rubber hose going from the steel line to the modulator is not cracked and leaking. You might also unplug that vacuum line temporarily and put a vacuum gage on it to make sure there is a reading so you will know that it is getting vacuum.
I've had the same thing happen when I bought my Suburban. I changed the fluid and filter and the tranny went downhill. Apparently the new fluid cleaned out build up from the internal parts and deposited them elsewhere. You can try to disolve the deposits with additives, but trannies rarely heal themselves so you're probably looking at a tranny rebuild ($800-1200 plus r%26amp;r fees if you don't pull it yourself) or go find a used one and do a swap. Those trannies are not cheap as most of them get used off road and get destroyed so they are snapped up quickly. I wish that I had better news.
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